Overheating after timing chain swap
#1
Overheating after timing chain swap
I'm new to the forum. It seems great so far. I've searched quite a bit and can't seem to find an answer. I've got a 94 pickup with a 22re. About 3 weeks ago, I did a new timing chain and guides, timing cover, crank seal, and water pump. The truck was running fine when I did it. The water and oil were not mixing, and it was not overheating, the timing chain was just making noise and it was leaking oil from the front crank seal. I put on a new cover just for good measure. I left the head in place to take off the timing cover. As soon as I got the truck back together it has been intermittenly overheating. I read about the 2 stage t stat thing, but only after I had replaced it with a new stant. I'm fairly experienced working on cars(I teach autotech) and this thing acts exactly like it has a blown head gasket. I'm just checking with ya'll before I pull the head to see if theres anything I'm forgetting when I did the chain that would cause this. Just seems like too big a coincidence that it started overheating as soon as I finished the timing chain. I guess maybe I could have disturbed the HG where it meets the timing cover? Thanks
#2
Registered User
I would start with the easy stuff. I bet you have a bubble in the system. Did you burp the cooling system when you finished? If not, drain some of the coolant out so that the level is below the thermostat. Then make the front end the higest part of the truck and start it up. Then add coolant and wait for the t-stat to open. Then just keep adding coolant until it's full.
Let us know if that dosen't work, then it's on to other things...
Let us know if that dosen't work, then it's on to other things...
#3
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First I'd do is verify the cam timing is correct. Late cam timing (retarded) can cause issues particularly since the ignition timing is dependent on the cam, and late ignition may cause overheating as can late valve timing due to the valves not being open at the proper times where air flow cools the valves and seats and...........
#4
Well I thought I had an air bubble too at first. I let it warm up with the cap off and I'm fairly certain it's not that. As for the cam timing, all my marks are lined up. I did back the ignition timing back down slightly below spec because I thought the same thing about the timing being too advanced making it run hot but it didn't make a difference. It's just acting exactly like a HG but it seems like too big a coincidence to start right after the timing chain swap
#6
Well I'm pretty sure the front end was still up in the air when I filled it up because I had it on stands to get the differential back in(I pulled the oil pan to clean it out). But I'll try to jack it up and burb it. That's better than pulling the head. I guess if I jack it up with it full and leave it overnight with the cap off and the level goes down in the radiator that will tell me i had air in it right?
#7
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If you leave it elevated like that overnight then the air will just sit there. The water has to be flowing. What I usually do is park the vehicle on a hill and let it idle with the radiator cap off. Eventually it will bubble and the level will go down a little. Just keep topping it off until until there is no more air in the system.
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#8
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I had a similar problem with my '93 22re when I replaced the timing chain about a year ago. I did the exact same thing (dropped the pan instead of pulling the head). I thought I had burped the system as well, but then when I drove it for any length in time the idle started to intermittently drop and then jump back up again. The air in the cooling system wasn't allowing the the water temp sensor to get a consistent read, and it ran hot. I did exactly as snobdds said - started it cold w/ the engine pointing up, took off the cap, & waited to see what happened. As soon as the engine warmed up enough for the thermostat to open the level dropped and I was able to fill the radiator completely.
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