Newbie 4Runner owner with no spark!
#1
Newbie 4Runner owner with no spark!
I bought a 1988 Toyota 4Runner 3VZ-E as a beater while I fix up my totaled bimmer, it ran with no issues (well, no BIG issues) for about 2 months. Then out of the blue, I was at the gas station, and it wouldn't start. After about 5 minutes of me getting frustrated, it started immediately when I cranked it over. Ran well for about 2 weeks, then I shut it down to go in the store for about 10 minutes, come out and it won't start. Eventually towed it home behind a friends truck. I've replaced spark plug wires, igniter (used), coil, and checked fuses, and it sits now at the same problem. I have not yet pulled a spark plug to check for spark, I'm more assuming that at this point, although I know I should check that to diagnose something like a fuel pump. Anyone have other ideas that I should check out right away?
#3
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Disclaimer: do not spray your engine or spark plug wires with starting fluid. I meant to spray some in the intake and see if it fires and runs. If it does and dies right away check for why you are getting no fuel.
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A Haynes Manual has a good check to see if the coil is good or bad. You can run some resistance checks on the Primary and Secondary on the coil and it will tell you if the resistance checks is in tolerance or not. If it is out of tolerance, replace the coil. One side will usually pass but the other side will fail from my experience.
Not much of a test you can do to see if the Igniter, located on top of the coil is bad. The Igniter is a tough part and is not likely to fail. I personally have never had an Igniter to fail but the coil I have had to fail a few times.
Not much of a test you can do to see if the Igniter, located on top of the coil is bad. The Igniter is a tough part and is not likely to fail. I personally have never had an Igniter to fail but the coil I have had to fail a few times.
#6
A Haynes Manual has a good check to see if the coil is good or bad. You can run some resistance checks on the Primary and Secondary on the coil and it will tell you if the resistance checks is in tolerance or not. If it is out of tolerance, replace the coil. One side will usually pass but the other side will fail from my experience.
Not much of a test you can do to see if the Igniter, located on top of the coil is bad. The Igniter is a tough part and is not likely to fail. I personally have never had an Igniter to fail but the coil I have had to fail a few times.
Not much of a test you can do to see if the Igniter, located on top of the coil is bad. The Igniter is a tough part and is not likely to fail. I personally have never had an Igniter to fail but the coil I have had to fail a few times.
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If you are sure it is a No Spark issue, I would stay in that area. Looks like you changed all of the Ignition System parts so that is a little confusing as to what it could be. Don't rule out all new parts being good. One of the toughest problems I dealt with was a new coil wire being bad. Run a resistance check on the wires and see that they have continuity.
To test and see if the fuel pump is good, I jumper the Fp/B+ terminal and with the hose coming off of the Fuel Rail, I disconnect the rubber hose from the fire wall and put it into a quart container. When you turn the key on, it will fill that container in a minute or so. It is a rough test to see if your fuel pump is working.
To test and see if the fuel pump is good, I jumper the Fp/B+ terminal and with the hose coming off of the Fuel Rail, I disconnect the rubber hose from the fire wall and put it into a quart container. When you turn the key on, it will fill that container in a minute or so. It is a rough test to see if your fuel pump is working.
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