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Hi guys im new here and got my self my first 1987 toyota pickup with a 22ret in it. Ive been doing some work to it. Ive installed new brakes, calipers, rotors, re lube the bearings in the front, resealed the lockers,new radiator,flex fan, new tires, fixed the heater and switches. Took off the ct20 and installed new garret turbo and friend welded a 409 ss exhaust 2.5 from turbo out with tip and installed a short shifter and a few more things to make this truck operate fine and is really deep and quiet with the new exhaust.There's a few things i need help with like how the idle tends to idle at random times rather then all the time. Another will be in 4x4 when driving it pulls to the left when accelerating then when i let off the gas it pulls back left. I did get some new idle arms for both side and some bilistien shocks and outer tie rods to help coup with the problem. Oh, and the starter is dying as it needs taping, lol.
You mentioned lockers. Does it have an autolocker in the front? If so, that will cause pulling one direction or the other during acceleration or deceleration depending on conditions, especially if one hub is locked and the other unlocked.
You mentioned lockers. Does it have an autolocker in the front? If so, that will cause pulling one direction or the other during acceleration or deceleration depending on conditions, especially if one hub is locked and the other unlocked.
BTW, nice looking truck.
If you mean automatic, no. More like manual lockers. I know you have to get out and turn them when going into 4x4. When i pulled it apart to service it and reinstalled them they turn smooth. My truck will be going back on the jacks to get the front suspension worked on for its future alignment. While it's up there what's a good way to test that the lockers are engaged or working?
OK, some terminology here. "Locker" normally refers to a mechanism (automatic or selectable) in the differential that locks both wheels on an axle together to aid in traction in difficult conditions. What you are referring to are manual "locking hubs", which simply allow selectably locking the front wheel to the drive axle, or conversely allowing it to freewheel. Try not to call those "lockers"; it confuses people.
Best way to test things out is to jack up both front wheels and safely support them on jack stands. Then put the vehicle in 4wd with the transmission in gear (engine off). With the hubs unlocked, each wheel should spin freely and independently. With them locked, turning one wheel should cause the other wheel to turn in the opposite direction. That would indicate an open (stock) differential.
If you can't turn either wheel with the hubs locked, you likely have some kind of automatic locker in the front differential. If that's the case report back and we'll tell you how to test it further.
OK, some terminology here. "Locker" normally refers to a mechanism (automatic or selectable) in the differential that locks both wheels on an axle together to aid in traction in difficult conditions. What you are referring to are manual "locking hubs", which simply allow selectably locking the front wheel to the drive axle, or conversely allowing it to freewheel. Try not to call those "lockers"; it confuses people.
Best way to test things out is to jack up both front wheels and safely support them on jack stands. Then put the vehicle in 4wd with the transmission in gear (engine off). With the hubs unlocked, each wheel should spin freely and independently. With them locked, turning one wheel should cause the other wheel to turn in the opposite direction. That would indicate an open (stock) differential.
If you can't turn either wheel with the hubs locked, you likely have some kind of automatic locker in the front differential. If that's the case report back and we'll tell you how to test it further.
So locking hubs it is. Ill get it on the jack later when i go pick up a new starter to replace my old one, then ill report back. Thank you for the info RJR
...Oh, and the starter is dying as it needs taping, lol.
Don't touch that starter. It is good until proven defective*.
However, the wiring to the starter solenoid has been proven bad. Do this fix first before you spend money and time on the starter.
Then, send me half the money you would have spent on the starter. I need it for Christmas -
*Chances are the starter is still good. Toyota OEM parts generally last a very long time, it is how they are wired, put together or worked on that are usually the problems.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-22-2015 at 09:33 PM.
Nice looking truck you have. The random idle can be caused by air in the cooling system. Raise the front end high, where the radiator cap is higher then the back of the motor and let it idle a while, with the cap off and let the air out of the system. You will want the thermostat to cycle 3 or 4 times. Welcome to Yotatech.
So today i had a chance to put a few things on everything on today. The front shocks are installed and same with the idle arms. To old to do the rears but ill get them done plus i need to get the right ball joint removal tool as i decimated my lower ball joint trying to pull it off. I installed a new 1.4w starter as it looked like it needed one from to many hit (not just from me) to get it started. I was doing the bushing on the sway bars and both bolts that hold the bar on the frame snapped from barley turning it, how do i go from their?
And terry87, it was the coolant. Over time it leaked front the bottom hose then creating an air bubble causing idle jumping issues.
RAD4Runner, that starter was old and had problems.
12-22-2015, 07:14 AM
