Need some main/rod bearing input, if you please...
#21
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I can't tell what constitutes a "set". I can tell you that dealer mark up on prices can exceed 100% so it wouldn't surprise me if one "set" was a good for a single cylinder at the dealer. Chances are that Toyota doesn't make the bearings, so go aftermarket.
I buy from engnbldr. I sleep because I know I'm getting a good price and I don't have to worry about buying some junk from China that isn't make out of the right materials and might not be spec'd correctly.
Know how big a wrist pin is? Know how big a valve is? Think it's likely that a wrist pin would get bent via collision with a valve? Good.. Me either.
You're engaged in a full rebuild. Have your rods checked (not replaced) by a machine shop. The rods are stout little things.. And I've never had to replace a set. Advice is to replace your pistons if you have more than 100k miles on them. Just buy engnbldr's rebuild kit ($300) and be done with it, sleep at night - no worries...
You can nickle and dime this, but in the long run you're adding more risk for minimal cost savings. What you don't want to happen is to do all this work, spend the money and then be re-doing it again to the tune of another $800 or more...
I buy from engnbldr. I sleep because I know I'm getting a good price and I don't have to worry about buying some junk from China that isn't make out of the right materials and might not be spec'd correctly.
Know how big a wrist pin is? Know how big a valve is? Think it's likely that a wrist pin would get bent via collision with a valve? Good.. Me either.
You're engaged in a full rebuild. Have your rods checked (not replaced) by a machine shop. The rods are stout little things.. And I've never had to replace a set. Advice is to replace your pistons if you have more than 100k miles on them. Just buy engnbldr's rebuild kit ($300) and be done with it, sleep at night - no worries...
You can nickle and dime this, but in the long run you're adding more risk for minimal cost savings. What you don't want to happen is to do all this work, spend the money and then be re-doing it again to the tune of another $800 or more...
As far as online ordering, I really am trying to speed this up and waiting for an order is not what I want to do, but will if necessary. That being said, trust me....I will not be buying just any junk because it's quicker. I'm doing my homework....
I'm doing more research into bearings, so I'm not definite on who I will buy from or where. I'm looking into bearing materials according to cost and practicality.
And, I am going to nickel and dime this. I have to live within my means......minimal costs being very relative. But, since you mentioned it, why would you replace the pistons if they have over 100k on them? If they're still good, what's the point? What "risks" are you talking about? They are Toyota. I understand you are giving me your best advice from your own knowledge and experience, but I'm also getting it from other sources who have some different opinions about it.
Last edited by thook; 02-11-2008 at 01:14 PM.
#22
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Well, you can read the post I just made. You'll see some conclusions I've come to, and I've learned about some statements you've made....ie, wrist pins. It's highly unlikely the rods are bent, either. They're also much stronger than valves.....atleast as far as Toyota is concerned.
As far as online ordering, I really am trying to speed this up and waiting for an order is not what I want to do, but will if necessary. That being said, trust me....I will not be buying just any junk because it's quicker. I'm doing my homework....
I'm doing more research into bearings, so I'm not definite on who I will buy from or where. I'm looking into bearing materials according to cost and practicality.
And, I am going to nickel and dime this. I have to live within my means......minimal costs being very relative. But, since you mentioned it, why would you replace the pistons if they have over 100k on them? If they're still good, what's the point? What "risks" are you talking about? They are Toyota. I understand you are giving me your best advice from your own knowledge and experience, but I'm also getting it from other sources who have some different opinions about it.
As far as online ordering, I really am trying to speed this up and waiting for an order is not what I want to do, but will if necessary. That being said, trust me....I will not be buying just any junk because it's quicker. I'm doing my homework....
I'm doing more research into bearings, so I'm not definite on who I will buy from or where. I'm looking into bearing materials according to cost and practicality.
And, I am going to nickel and dime this. I have to live within my means......minimal costs being very relative. But, since you mentioned it, why would you replace the pistons if they have over 100k on them? If they're still good, what's the point? What "risks" are you talking about? They are Toyota. I understand you are giving me your best advice from your own knowledge and experience, but I'm also getting it from other sources who have some different opinions about it.
#23
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If you search some around here you can find the comments I got from my machine shop guy about the Rock pistons and bearings I first got for my rebuild. It wasn't pretty, I'll tell you that much. I know for sure now that I would never put those pistons in a Toyota engine. I think I'd even go as far as saying I'd rather keep the old pistons than put new Rock pistons in there.
Yeah, if I can hold on to my Toyota pistons, I definitely will. Fortunately, there are the trusty FSM tests to run and expert eyes (that I trust, anyway) to look for signs. If I were to go by Toyota OEM reliability, reputation for that, and what experience sources have, the chances are very good my pistons are fine.
Tomorrow I get to work on my motor some more...yay! Since Don Clark is just down the road from where I'll be, I'm going to run all the parts in question for him to look over. Of course, there are things even expert eyes cannot see, but there are things he can. Plus, I just learned today, since he used to run a machine shop and teach the same, he has some equipment I can use. Like a micrometer....whoohoo!
Thanks, Rune. I'll do some searches on your suggestion.
BTW, I hope you don't mind me shortening your name like that. "Rune" is kind of cool name, anyway. I like runes. But, I'll use your proper, if you like.
Last edited by thook; 02-11-2008 at 02:59 PM.
#25
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I'll have to look and see. Rune is my real name so that is fine
Edit: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gasket-133115/
Just note that this is for my V6.
Edit: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gasket-133115/
Just note that this is for my V6.
Last edited by runethechamp; 02-11-2008 at 03:56 PM.
#26
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Right....now I remember.
I guess the machine shop doesn't realize even Aisin/Seiki has a plant in India.
I guess the machine shop doesn't realize even Aisin/Seiki has a plant in India.
My favorite quote, as there was practically smoke coming out of the machine shop guy's ears: "And these pistons, they're made in India! I'm not saying that everything that comes out of India is cr*&, but this is NOT Toyota quality."
And just for the sake of it, there was no financial benefits for this guy to say what he did and implicate that I should get origianl parts. I bought all my parts from somewhere else.
And just for the sake of it, there was no financial benefits for this guy to say what he did and implicate that I should get origianl parts. I bought all my parts from somewhere else.
#27
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Just to make it clear, I have nothing against engnbldr, the service I got from there was second to none. And I don't know enough about engine parts to form my own completely independent opinion of the parts either. But there was no reason (at least not financial) for my machine shop guy to lie to me, so I trust his words on this.
Last edited by runethechamp; 02-11-2008 at 05:04 PM.
#28
I highly recommend you find a shop and have them measure everything to determine where you need to go next. The shop can turn the crank and match bearings with journals. They can rebuild rods to factory specs. The can knurl your pistons and extend their life for little money. They have the best hones for restoring the std bores or can bore it out if needed. They can clean the block and get all the crap out of it. Trust me it collects crap. If you don't go this route, you may end up with a problem after start-up and break-in. Good name brand bearings and Hasting iron rings if you don't bore has always worked well for me. DO NOT install chrome rings. Molly rings good for bored cylinder walls.
My $0.02
My $0.02
#29
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That quote was more in there for entertainment than enything else. More important is just the tolerances and construction of the pistons themselves.
Just to make it clear, I have nothing against engnbldr, the service I got from there was second to none. And I don't know enough about engine parts to form my own completely independent opinion of the parts either. But there was no reason (at least not financial) for my machine shop guy to lie to me, so I trust his words on this.
Just to make it clear, I have nothing against engnbldr, the service I got from there was second to none. And I don't know enough about engine parts to form my own completely independent opinion of the parts either. But there was no reason (at least not financial) for my machine shop guy to lie to me, so I trust his words on this.
Well, I do have one HUGE contention with engnbldr. They're not in Arkansas.... (<<that better?)
You're right. Tolerances, design, and manufacturing materials are important....no matter who the hell's name's on it. If it's whacked, it's whacked. I'm sure he wasn't lying. Since I don't know quite enough, either, I'm the same boat as you and have to rely on the character and experience of others. Good you have someone you trust. I know how much it helps.
Thanks for your input.
I wonder, does Ted know about the parts?
#30
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I suppose one could use a micrometer on both and split the difference mathematically, but the plastiguage does the job.
#31
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I highly recommend you find a shop and have them measure everything to determine where you need to go next. The shop can turn the crank and match bearings with journals. They can rebuild rods to factory specs. The can knurl your pistons and extend their life for little money. They have the best hones for restoring the std bores or can bore it out if needed. They can clean the block and get all the crap out of it. Trust me it collects crap. If you don't go this route, you may end up with a problem after start-up and break-in. Good name brand bearings and Hasting iron rings if you don't bore has always worked well for me. DO NOT install chrome rings. Molly rings good for bored cylinder walls.
My $0.02
My $0.02
From what I've seen of the ring wear on cylinder #1, the cylinder did not look out of round....if that says anything about what to expect from the rest. I looked carefully. Regardless, I'm taking everything down to Don Clark tomorrow to have him look at all. He's got the tools and stuff to inspect. I learned this today. He's coaching me on honing the cylinders and basically everything else.
Now, what do you mean possible problems on start up and break in? I know the block collects crap, but really...mine doesn't look that bad. I wish you all could see the motor. I'm reading all kinds of stuff for things to look for, and so far everything is looking good. Tomorrow will get more conclusive, though. I'll get some specs and hopefully some pics to post, as well.
I just want you all to know, I take everything brought up here in the thread into consideration. Without it, I don't even know the questions to ask. So, I do appreciate it. I'm learning a great deal.
#32
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Oh, something I wanted to mention.
Last week, once I got the front end torn down and exposed the bottom end, I had my friend Greg (who co-owns the shop with his father...where my truck is...who's rebuilt many a 22r's) look at my motor and components and said mine looked better than his at 90k...when he rebuilt his because HIS chain jumped. Just not enough to bend the valves. He made the remark about the crosshatching on the cylinder walls as that was some indication of the shape of the motor. That, and the crank journals and bearings being so smooth with no outer ridges or scoring. Come to think of it, there wasn't any varnish either.
Speaking of bearings, the metal they are made of is called lead babbit....just for info. sake.
Last week, once I got the front end torn down and exposed the bottom end, I had my friend Greg (who co-owns the shop with his father...where my truck is...who's rebuilt many a 22r's) look at my motor and components and said mine looked better than his at 90k...when he rebuilt his because HIS chain jumped. Just not enough to bend the valves. He made the remark about the crosshatching on the cylinder walls as that was some indication of the shape of the motor. That, and the crank journals and bearings being so smooth with no outer ridges or scoring. Come to think of it, there wasn't any varnish either.
Speaking of bearings, the metal they are made of is called lead babbit....just for info. sake.
Last edited by thook; 02-11-2008 at 06:10 PM.
#33
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If you search some around here you can find the comments I got from my machine shop guy about the Rock pistons and bearings I first got for my rebuild. It wasn't pretty, I'll tell you that much. I know for sure now that I would never put those pistons in a Toyota engine. I think I'd even go as far as saying I'd rather keep the old pistons than put new Rock pistons in there.
Last edited by 89whitetoyota; 02-11-2008 at 07:27 PM.
#34
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What's out of line about that? That's your experience and I'm sure you're being honest about it.
Two years ago I went to my neighbor/friend's birthday party. It was at the time of Mardi Gras, so she had ordered all this cajun food over the internet (Arkansas's not known for having the freshest seafood). It was all supposedly high quality, well packaged, and strictly maintained from source. Oddly, my wife and I were the only ones to get food poisoning out of twenty or more people. Who the hell knows why?
Two years ago I went to my neighbor/friend's birthday party. It was at the time of Mardi Gras, so she had ordered all this cajun food over the internet (Arkansas's not known for having the freshest seafood). It was all supposedly high quality, well packaged, and strictly maintained from source. Oddly, my wife and I were the only ones to get food poisoning out of twenty or more people. Who the hell knows why?
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