linuxrunner

Checked my valve cover, and it was not the problem How delicate is the valve settings? Because i don't remember the clicks being this loud when i bought it. I guess the clicking got worse after i first adjusted the valves. If the valves are very sensitive than maybe they are still a little out of adjustment i just need to figure out how to replace this before i try adjustment again.

Flash319

I am at work and could not here but I had a bad tick on my when I put the head back on and it was that I had the vacuum booster and the valve cover vent hose mixed where they go into the intake. You get a very loud tick. I don't know why. but I would look for easy things if the engine is new.

linuxrunner

Where is the vacuum booster hose? i figure something like this is most likely the problem. I honestly had NO idea what i was doing when i first started working on this thing now thanks to yotatech and messing around i have slightly more than no idea, it is likely i put something back together wrong, or forgot something.

V_Runner

do you have a cracked or broken motor mount???try checking that...

chopps

This may be way off but is their any possible way that an injector or two is clogged. Will the noise stop if you put starting flluid down it? Does it have much power?

93Toyota PU

Check out this link...it depicts some of the vacum routing:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14layoutan.pdf

and EGR:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18egrsyste.pdf

linuxrunner

thanks for the diagram, everything looks right. I was just wonderin, when i pull this tube my idles gets a little smoother. Is this right? maybe i'll try cleaning the EGR tomorrow morning, how do you get that cover off? maybe this will help my idle.
Also is their to be vacume or air moveing through the tubes that go to the resonator from the air filter, because there is no suction and idle does not change when removed.

93Toyota PU

Most EGRs I've seen do not come apart. You can clean the pintle however be careful. Some of them have rubber parts and seals that can be damaged with the wrong cleaner. I've heard some people use throttle body cleaner...but proceed with caution and at your own risk.
I don't know about the air flow...check out those links and see if they help. If your noise is still there it sounds like it could be valve adjustment time:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/...ves/index.html

Saint_Berzerker

I've been trying to figure out the "ticking" sound forever. Everybody tells me that 22re's are just noisy.

Engine has less than 5k on it. I got rid of a lot of noise by changing my bad catalytic converter. It did sound like a freaking diesel before that. But you said you're not losing power. I didn't think I was either until after I changed it, and there was a difference.

Also, adjusting my timing helped a bit.

I know how you feel about other's 22's not being loud. My brother has one and it seems quieter than mine, but I dunno.

Saint_Berzerker

[QUOTE=linuxrunner]...
Also is their to be vacume or air moveing through the tubes that go to the resonator from the air filter, because there is no suction and idle does not change when removed.


Uh oh....I think ya hit something. From what I know, and the way my truck is...there IS supposed to be sucking vacuum from the resonator hose when you pull it out of the airbox. From when I was messing with it, I read about it and it sucks in clean air in order to help reduce the emissions. So, you're missing vacuum from somewhere.

I know because I just removed my air box and installed a ram intake and there definately is a vacuum sucking into the resonator.

So, I would guess that there's something wrong w/ that picture!

Let us know!

FingerMan20

Hey, my buddy had a "ticky" sound in his 22re, and I kinda liked the noise. But after a while, I asked him if the valvetrain was just noisy, or if he knew why it ticked so loud, and he told me it wasn't the valves, but an exhaust manifold gasket that needed to be replaced. With his hood up, i could tell that the noise was coming from the back of the motor, nearer the cab. So I moved my hand around the exhaust manifold, and I could feel the hot air rushing out of the seal area. We replaced the gasket, and the tick went away completely.

I don't know if that would help you, but you might check.

linuxrunner

Thanks fingerMan, i'll check that out. i already fixed a few other exhaust leaks so it is possible. Right now im trying to replce my belts and pullys (should make everything a lot quieter without that grinding of pullys I'll let you know what i find.

EWAYota

Linux, what was the outcome of all your diagnosis? curious to know what the problem was.

linuxrunner

I have not yet figured it out. Right now i have a really really bad idle, started after i cleaned my EGR so i think i need to replace some of those metal gasket things. Before i put it back together next time.

Also the bolt that you use to turn the engine over when adjusting your valves is stripped and i have to figure out a way to replace it, if anybody has any idea's let me know.

ToyotaGuru

You have what sounds like two different symptoms.
The first is the valves are way out of adjustment.
Try using 7 and 11 instead of 8 and 12. Make sure the
locknuts are tight. Additionally, when the book says use
slight drag this mean little to no drag removing the feeler gage.
Valves typiclly shut up at higher rpm unless, they are way out
of adjustment. Also, they are sometimes loud for a couple
seconds during a cold start, until the oil reaches the head.

The bad part the thud rattle noise through the entire RPM band
is 99% Rod bearing. To isolate a cylinder, start it and remove
a plug wire while the engine is running to isolate an individual cylinder.

Chuki

^^^ Right there

I've always adjusted any 20-22R series engine I've worked on, with the stock cam to 7 and 11 instead of 8 and 12. That usually removes most of the valve ticking noise.

Also maybe check for an exhaust leak.

subliminaltrips

to assure yourself that its not a rod or bottom end issue check the oil preassure. does your oil light come on or do you have a mechanical gauge? if you have anything below 5 psi at 750 rpm when the engine is completely warmed up to operating temp with 10-w30 oil you have problems with your bottom end. otherwise the worse possible thing could be a bad wrist pin or a loose flywheel bolt. you probabally just need to adjust something in the top end as stated above.

linuxrunner

Ok, time for an update.

Well i found another good reason to use seafoam... to find exhaust leaks, i ran some through and when i started it up white smoke was billowing from under my hood. Turns out have a large exhaust leak coming from somewhere by my headers, possibly a gasket. so i will check that as soon as finals are over and i have some time.

Is their a way i can check to see if my oil light works? i have NEVER seen it on. Even right after an oil change.

Thanks

881stGenRunner

Ya the exhaust sounds like that may be wut it is. I have a 3VZE, but i too have an exhaust leak and it makes a horrible ticking noise.

Adam F

Yea, an exhaust leak at the headers will make a wicked loud sound. You should hear it on a 350 SBC in a Blazer!