Left key on, now won't start
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Left key on, now won't start
I have a 94 pickup with a 3.0. I locked my keys in it and also left the ignition on. Major grey moment. The ignition was on all night. Now it will turn over but won't start. It tries to start. It has 38psi fuel pressure at the rail and spark at the distributor and plugs. Following the factory service manual I checked the distributor, coil, Vafm, efi & circuit opening relays. All these have checked out okay. There are no codes stored, but this was after I disconnected the battery ground. I thought it might need reset. I'm at a lose. Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thank you
Jim
Thank you
Jim
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If you pull a plug, is it wet? (suggests no spark). If dry, you might not have the injectors opening. They produce an audible click; you can get a fancy mechanic's stethoscope, or use the core of a roll of paper towels.
You can also try a tiny spritz of engine starting fluid; if it runs then dies it's a fuel problem.
You can also try a tiny spritz of engine starting fluid; if it runs then dies it's a fuel problem.
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(You can check for spark "old-school" by holding a plug against the block, but if your hand shakes you can get a helluva shock.)
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I've been charging the battery as I keep trying to start it. It seems like it's spinning as fast a normal. I checked the spark the old school method, at the distributor and by pulling a plug. I had a yellow spark at both places.
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#9
While cranking the engine over. Pump the throttle from Wide open throttle to closed several times till the engine starts.
Leaving the ignition on my have caused multiple sensors/actuators to be in a stand-by state so to speak. Performing the above should "wake-up" the engine.
Possible excessive fuel present in intake/engine.
Fuses...?
Leaving the ignition on my have caused multiple sensors/actuators to be in a stand-by state so to speak. Performing the above should "wake-up" the engine.
Possible excessive fuel present in intake/engine.
Fuses...?
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I've tried cranking it over with the throttle floored. It sputters and weakly tries to start but won't start. I've tried this about 7 or 8 times. I crank till the battery starts fading. Is there another way to reset the system? I've disconnected the battery ground, but it made no difference. Thanks.
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The plugs are wet, but I have spark also. I sprayed starting fluid into the cylinder and there was no difference. Is it possible that the spark is too weak to fire?
#17
Wet plugs.
-Fuel..?
-This is more than likely the no start condition. "Flooded."
You can clean and dry the plugs and re-install but your still going to need to force the engine to start. "Clearing it out." So speak, from the fuel residue from overnight "Key-ON."
-Fuel..?
-This is more than likely the no start condition. "Flooded."
You can clean and dry the plugs and re-install but your still going to need to force the engine to start. "Clearing it out." So speak, from the fuel residue from overnight "Key-ON."
Last edited by Kiroshu; 09-19-2013 at 02:45 PM.
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My guess is you either burned up the igniter or ignition coil.
There's a 'power' (IGBT) transistor in the igniter module which switches the coil off and on. It can handle normal operation, but if current is allowed to pass through it for too long, it will degrade- key should never be left on for more than 10 minutes or so without the engine running.
Similar for the coil- if left energized for long periods of time, it will degrade and may short out coils within it causing weak spark.
There's a 'power' (IGBT) transistor in the igniter module which switches the coil off and on. It can handle normal operation, but if current is allowed to pass through it for too long, it will degrade- key should never be left on for more than 10 minutes or so without the engine running.
Similar for the coil- if left energized for long periods of time, it will degrade and may short out coils within it causing weak spark.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-19-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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Thank you, Kiroshu.
The coil is connected to B+ and the igniter closes and opens the coil's ground.
The "yellow" spark mentioned earlier is a sign the voltage across the coil is not correct. It should be a nice blue-white spark. So if the battery is fully charged, the only other culprits possible are the coil itself is damaged or the igniter module isn't passing enough current.
Autoshop 101.
The coil is connected to B+ and the igniter closes and opens the coil's ground.
The "yellow" spark mentioned earlier is a sign the voltage across the coil is not correct. It should be a nice blue-white spark. So if the battery is fully charged, the only other culprits possible are the coil itself is damaged or the igniter module isn't passing enough current.
Autoshop 101.