GVOLCRunner

So, this is a little FYI for everyone out there. I have a 90 4runner, still running on the original key. Well the key finally over the weekend wore to the point of no longer being able to turn the ignition. Simply to worn to turn the gimbles in the right manner without literally spending 10 minutes acting like a guy cracking a safe.

Happened while I had the g/f car and she my truck.. needless to say she was pissed.

So, I had her go to the toyota dealer with my title to get a new key. Heres where it got funny.

1. My truck was first sold in canada, as a result the US toyota system had no info on my truck - key code or anything. Told her to have me call the toyota canada division.

2. Called them, they said they would research my truck and find the key code - send it to the dealer.
got a call 2 days later, saying "sorry, your truck is so old we no longer have it. BUT i can tell you the "secret" spot on your truck where it is stamped.



So, this is for everyone out there with 91 or older toyota 4runners, and possible the trucks as they are damn near identical is many ways. If you need a new key and they cant find your key code

She told me that the key code is located on the key tumbler on the passenger side door. It was, I removed the panel, pulled the door handle and key tumbler out and sure enough there was the key code. Walked in, told them the code - NOW perfectly working key.

To be honest, not used to such a smooth working key. Makes me think I have a new car.




Just a little FYI to anyone needing a key. ALSO, with the keycode you dont need any title or proof of ownership. Give them the code, they type it in and the machine knows exactly what to do with it.

offroadie

Yeah - my local dealership just gave me the low down on that little nugget too. How hard was the tumbler to get out?

toytech76

Interesting. I thought they could cut a key on anything off the VIN

Team420

HAHA...wish I knew that last year....I have(had) remote keyless entry, so when my key stopped working, I just shoved a flathead screwdriver in and started her up... of course...my security system has been swamped too many times now, and no longer works, and my ignition key never worked in the doors... so now I have replace the ignition.
Nice tip though!!

iamsuperbleeder

huh, that's good to know; mine are starting to wear bad. it's a pain to open the door

killer305

the dealer still had the code for my 95

GVOLCRunner

Ok to several reponses:

First, to the cut off vin comment. Apparenlty no, what they can do is look up your KEY CODE with the VIN so long as its on file. Apparenlty theres a time frame for that. I had a key cut from a vin almost 2 years ago and it was a 91.. my guess is each year they move one year closer.


Second - easy as hell to get to. If you need to do it and want some tips let me know. When a flathead screwdriver, it took 10 minutes to get it off.

The order is easy, first remove the inside door panel with the arm rest and what not. Its attached with those annoying pop pins. The flat head helps pop them without breaking. DIdnt lose one at all. Then you just unattach various cables and a couple screws for the arm rest.

Once you do that, un unattach the actual cables that open/lock door from the inside and outside door handle. Remove the bolts holding the door handle on and the entire outside assembly slides out, KEY TUMBLER included.

It was (THANK GOD) incredibly EASY! Reinstalling seriously took 5 minutes.


Third: the US may keep key codes on file longer. As mine was in the canadian system..who knows.


Anyway, figured Id let everyone know about the now not unber secret place to get your key codes.

GVOLCRunner

Iamsuperbleeder:

Mine was like that for about 6 months.. Id get your code or a new key now before it strands you. Eventually it will one day refuse to work. I CAN make that old key work, but even me.. who knows my truck.. it takes literally 5 minutes of cracking the safe to get it. I wouldnt want to get stranded like that.


The new key cost 5 bucks. How awesome is that. I had them make 3 while I was there.

abecedarian

Just went down 2 days ago and got new keys cut from the VIN on my '91 pickup. The dealer was nice enough to write the code down as well for me in case I needed to reference it again.
It was $5.00 US for each key.

GVOLCRunner

so apparently just made it to the 90's they are purging. Nice to know.

leebee

just so you know, there is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in place. you dont need to remove the entire handle assy.

lee

maxvp01

Reviving an old thread here, recently lost my keys and had to get some made. Prices actually have gone up to about 10.00 US per key. When you go also tell the parts guy to write a note under your VIN in the system to note your key code. That way you if you forget, or at the very least for the next owner!

Anyways figured i’d post a picture of where the key code is physically located incase anyone needs to reference. Probably won’t be the same code as yours. Also figured i’d show how to fix the dust shield inside the lock cylinder. The guys at toyota dropped my lock cylinder and it fell apart on the floor in their back room they said and they tried fixing it.. (didn’t work.. but i’ll show how I fixed it)

Key Code:



Dust Shield Fix:
So the parts guy had dropped my lock cylinder and kept telling me he put it together right.. Even though there was a spring literally hanging out the keyhole.



So I got some picks and gently applied even force on all the sides until the face came off. exposing the inside of the lock. The arrows indicate the dust shield. It looks like when it was dropped they didn’t load the dust shield on to the spring for it to “retract” into the closet position.


So next I pulled the shield out (just slides out) and lined up the “ears” of the shield to their slot in the cylinder. There is two ears but it was hard to get a picture with only two hands lol. Once you do this, you put the faceplate back on and your good to go!



I’m no locksmith but figured this might help someone else out if they run into this problem! The main reason I wanted this fixed is because I didn’t want any mud finding it’s way into the cylinder.. So that dust shield is pretty important to me!

Jimkola

If you have a "K" series lock, which most RN5 and RN6 are, this is the kit that has 99% of what you need to either refresh a lock, or completely rekey. Wafers, springs, faceplates, etc. The only thing missing is the faceplate for the tailgate lock. But I had to buy a pack of 10, so you can always hit me up. And yes, it will do the ignition lock. If your key comes out in any position new wafers and springs will fix that.
Taking a lock apart is pretty straight-forward. hardest part is prying the faceplate off. I cleaned mine in a ultrasonic cleaner once apart, removing years of grime, dirt, and old lubricants.
Here's a kit that just hit eBay. This kit was later superseded to a larger kit that covered more applications, and didn't have the faceplates. so this 104 kit is the one you really want. Cheaper, with more stuff you'll need.
​​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASP-Keying-...cAAOSwsspgW9b9