Just Bought a Gen 2
01-24-2010, 07:49 PM
#21
(This maybe a bit long)
Still doing some little things to the "new truck". Not able to really take any pics yet and working on some of the things left to get this baby up and running right in our local monsoons makes for a tough way to go. With work and my son's schedule, I have not been able to do all I wanted. So with a day off, took it to the Base hobby shop and put it up on the lift. Changed the oil and of course, I left the oil pressure switch in the 98 ... oh well later to try to fix the issue with the oil pressure gauge.
Ok so we get it up on the lift and start looking over the undersides. Noticed that I have a fairly new exhaust, Magna flow muffler and tail pipe. Looks like practically brand new rear and front shocks didn't really notice a specific brand name as I was in a bit of a rush to get the oil done and wanted to look at my brakes but the rears are really heavy duty and are black with some yellow markings. Fronts are bright blue and could not see any brand name.
Drive lines look good but need to get a grease gun and clean fittings and grease them a bit. How many grease fittings should I be looking for on each drive shaft u-joint? Are there any other luge points I need to look for as well on the front suspension? I could only find one on each end of the front shaft and none on the rear.
Noted that I had the O2 sensor lines hanging down near the connection point and in intermitent contact with the exhaust, so routed them higher up in the chassis and tie wrapped them in place to what look to be brake lines located above the exhaust and above a heat shield. This should keep them out of the way of any brush as well, high and dry!
Did the oil change without issue, Oil pan gasket is clean and dry no leakage here or at the drain plug. Some minor leakage in the vicinity of the oil filter. Once I got the filter off, noted that there appears to be some sort of crud or even some corrosion on the seating surface of the oil filter. Anyone else ever see this? Tried to clean it as best as I could and then installed the new filter
CV boots look clean and intact. Nothing else unusal so lowered truck down to the point I could pull the wheels and check the brakes. Here is were I encountered my first problem. Even with a fully turned up impact wrench, could not budge the lug nuts. Ended up putting the truck back down so the wheels were in contact with the floor. Tried virtually everyhting I could but was not able to find the correct size lug wrench that would not round the lug nuts.
Then the Shop guy came over with a 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar (gotta love Snap-On). Using that with the impact socket I leaned on this bad boy till it flexed a full 2 inches! It really got a bit scary for me as they still did not want to move. Opted to use short quick bursts of torque the lugs started "popping" and was able to fianlly free them up. I was sooo worried that the next pop I was going to hear was going to be the sound of a snapping lug stud.
They were all corroded around the threads of the studs and the aluminum alloy wheels had corroded onto the hubs as well. The bevel of the lug nuts were not smooth at all and had powdery white coatings all over them. Wire brushed the studs, lugs and wheel centers, a little oil on the threads and a light coating on the wheel hub contact area, lightly oiled the lugs nut bevels. After inspecting the brake pads, rotors, drums and pads checked wheel cylingers and no leaks from the boots. Re-installed the wheels and spun the lugs on. Seated all and lowered the truck so the wheels where touching and then torqued the lugs to 80 ft pounds. If I had had a flat, I would have been screwed as no way I was going to get them off with the stock Toyota tire tools
So here is the posting question ... (Yeah I know ... )I noted one lug stud was chewed up and partially stripped as it was missing a lug nut. What is the easiest method of removing the defective stud and installing a replacement, never had to do one. Can I just get a replacement out of a wrecked runner the same way I remove the bad one? How do you install the replacement stud and seat it?
Lug nuts should not be a huge issue to find. Any issue with putting alight coating of oil on the studs and lugs? I have heard arguements on this so looking for some input as well. The way they were corroded I needed to try to prevent this from being an issue again. What is the consensis on this?
One more issue that is driving me a bit buggy. I hear a very metallic rattling coming from what seems to be the right rear area of the truck. Almost like something is loose and when I go voer a bump it really makes a metallic sounding "clunk". I have looked for issues with something in that area not being fully tigh, but I really have no idea what to be looking for. Open to suggestions
Still would like to change out the gear lube in the front and rear differentials but will have to wait untill next payday. Will do the greasing then as well.
Ok so there we go, another weekend of trinkering. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed getting greasy working on my truck!
Still doing some little things to the "new truck". Not able to really take any pics yet and working on some of the things left to get this baby up and running right in our local monsoons makes for a tough way to go. With work and my son's schedule, I have not been able to do all I wanted. So with a day off, took it to the Base hobby shop and put it up on the lift. Changed the oil and of course, I left the oil pressure switch in the 98 ... oh well later to try to fix the issue with the oil pressure gauge.
Ok so we get it up on the lift and start looking over the undersides. Noticed that I have a fairly new exhaust, Magna flow muffler and tail pipe. Looks like practically brand new rear and front shocks didn't really notice a specific brand name as I was in a bit of a rush to get the oil done and wanted to look at my brakes but the rears are really heavy duty and are black with some yellow markings. Fronts are bright blue and could not see any brand name.
Drive lines look good but need to get a grease gun and clean fittings and grease them a bit. How many grease fittings should I be looking for on each drive shaft u-joint? Are there any other luge points I need to look for as well on the front suspension? I could only find one on each end of the front shaft and none on the rear.
Noted that I had the O2 sensor lines hanging down near the connection point and in intermitent contact with the exhaust, so routed them higher up in the chassis and tie wrapped them in place to what look to be brake lines located above the exhaust and above a heat shield. This should keep them out of the way of any brush as well, high and dry!
Did the oil change without issue, Oil pan gasket is clean and dry no leakage here or at the drain plug. Some minor leakage in the vicinity of the oil filter. Once I got the filter off, noted that there appears to be some sort of crud or even some corrosion on the seating surface of the oil filter. Anyone else ever see this? Tried to clean it as best as I could and then installed the new filter
CV boots look clean and intact. Nothing else unusal so lowered truck down to the point I could pull the wheels and check the brakes. Here is were I encountered my first problem. Even with a fully turned up impact wrench, could not budge the lug nuts. Ended up putting the truck back down so the wheels were in contact with the floor. Tried virtually everyhting I could but was not able to find the correct size lug wrench that would not round the lug nuts.
Then the Shop guy came over with a 30" 1/2" drive breaker bar (gotta love Snap-On). Using that with the impact socket I leaned on this bad boy till it flexed a full 2 inches! It really got a bit scary for me as they still did not want to move. Opted to use short quick bursts of torque the lugs started "popping" and was able to fianlly free them up. I was sooo worried that the next pop I was going to hear was going to be the sound of a snapping lug stud.
They were all corroded around the threads of the studs and the aluminum alloy wheels had corroded onto the hubs as well. The bevel of the lug nuts were not smooth at all and had powdery white coatings all over them. Wire brushed the studs, lugs and wheel centers, a little oil on the threads and a light coating on the wheel hub contact area, lightly oiled the lugs nut bevels. After inspecting the brake pads, rotors, drums and pads checked wheel cylingers and no leaks from the boots. Re-installed the wheels and spun the lugs on. Seated all and lowered the truck so the wheels where touching and then torqued the lugs to 80 ft pounds. If I had had a flat, I would have been screwed as no way I was going to get them off with the stock Toyota tire tools
So here is the posting question ... (Yeah I know ... )I noted one lug stud was chewed up and partially stripped as it was missing a lug nut. What is the easiest method of removing the defective stud and installing a replacement, never had to do one. Can I just get a replacement out of a wrecked runner the same way I remove the bad one? How do you install the replacement stud and seat it? Lug nuts should not be a huge issue to find. Any issue with putting alight coating of oil on the studs and lugs? I have heard arguements on this so looking for some input as well. The way they were corroded I needed to try to prevent this from being an issue again. What is the consensis on this?
One more issue that is driving me a bit buggy. I hear a very metallic rattling coming from what seems to be the right rear area of the truck. Almost like something is loose and when I go voer a bump it really makes a metallic sounding "clunk". I have looked for issues with something in that area not being fully tigh, but I really have no idea what to be looking for. Open to suggestions
Still would like to change out the gear lube in the front and rear differentials but will have to wait untill next payday. Will do the greasing then as well.
Ok so there we go, another weekend of trinkering. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed getting greasy working on my truck!
01-24-2010, 08:05 PM
#22
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I , once a years, spray, CLP, or some other type of lubricant/displacement agent, on all my lug nuts. I even slide under the truck, and do the whole underside this way. Looks perfect, and have had no probs with lugnuts coming loose while driving.
I just put a magnaflow, with a pre exhaust 2 inch pipe, and then a 2.5 inch pipe on the exit. runs super nice!!!
By the way, we RE-heh-healy need some pics as you go along!!!
Now the clunk; well, it is not there as you normally drive, only when you hit a bump. If you physically looked/checked/moved stuff around with your hands, when you had that wheel off, then no worries there. My first guess is it is somehting to do with the fuel, starting with the box being loose, right inside the filler door, to the pipe going down. Also I would remove the rear right storage panel, get a flashlight, and look inside there, to see if something is loose in there.
I just put a magnaflow, with a pre exhaust 2 inch pipe, and then a 2.5 inch pipe on the exit. runs super nice!!!
By the way, we RE-heh-healy need some pics as you go along!!!
Now the clunk; well, it is not there as you normally drive, only when you hit a bump. If you physically looked/checked/moved stuff around with your hands, when you had that wheel off, then no worries there. My first guess is it is somehting to do with the fuel, starting with the box being loose, right inside the filler door, to the pipe going down. Also I would remove the rear right storage panel, get a flashlight, and look inside there, to see if something is loose in there.
Last edited by rangerruck; 01-24-2010 at 08:09 PM.
01-25-2010, 06:22 AM
#24
Just to refresh, here is my question again:
So here is the posting question ... I noted one lug stud was chewed up and partially stripped as it was missing a lug nut. What is the easiest method of removing the defective stud and installing a replacement, never had to do one. Can I just get a replacement out of a wrecked runner the same way I remove the bad one? How do you install the replacement stud and seat it?
01-25-2010, 06:53 AM
#25
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Really, this is how it's done. You could probably use your 3 lb. sledge (I used to call that FIAT tool #1).
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...ud_replace.htm
Do you have the FSM?
Also, you'll need the, uh, 54mm socket, I think, for the hub nut.
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods...ud_replace.htm
Do you have the FSM?
Also, you'll need the, uh, 54mm socket, I think, for the hub nut.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-02-2014 at 06:17 AM.
01-26-2010, 06:39 PM
#27
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Yeah, you have to remove the hub nut (with the 54mm special tool), pull the hub, remove the rotor. Then you'll have access to the back of the hub where you can press (or hammer) out the old stud and press (or hammer) in a new one. To get it back together you'll need the same special tool with a torque wrench.
The FSM will tell you to use a scale-like device to test the hub after install. I and others on the forum have just taken a guess with good results.
The FSM will tell you to use a scale-like device to test the hub after install. I and others on the forum have just taken a guess with good results.
03-02-2010, 10:40 AM
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03-02-2010, 09:26 PM
#30
I have been able to do a few things to it and I did write a thread on the starter issue I had with it not wanting to start, but only a sligle click, ended up being the single wire connector identified as connector 50 in the FSM. One more thing to check if you get the single click from the starter. My son drives it as his daily driver and I ahve not been able to do any other work on it I would like to do such as replacing the moon roof switch and the rear window switch. I will have to take a few pics and share, thanks!
03-15-2010, 10:21 AM
#32
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did you get that stud replaced? the best way to install a new stud is to get a spare lug nut with the stud, and put the stud in, then thread the lug on and hit it with an impact all the way down to the hub it will pull the stud through. sounds like a fun rig though!
03-16-2010, 07:09 AM
#33
Still have not gotten a new lug for the rear yet, as for pics, I bought the truck for my oldest so he had transportation. His off days don't coincide with my off days so it has been a bit tough to take any pics just yet. I still have several things to "replace" that I need to get fixed. The issue with the rear left passenger window took a turn, seems one of his buddies who was riding in that seat tried to roll down the window and it went down! Wouldn't go up and with rain kinda made it hard to keep the water out. bottom line on this issue was after fiddling with the passenger door switch he was able to get it back up. Still an issue with the switch operation, just one more thing to add to the list. From a running stand point, the truck is running fine but still drinks gas like a drunk drinks whiskey... Thanks for the info on putting the stud in.
fail
07-08-2012, 01:08 PM
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Cambamalam -
Just in case you don't know what "fail" means: you need to ask a question that at least tells us what the problem is. There is no "low range" on an auto trans. There is one on a transfer case. Do you mean your 4wd won't engage in "Hi"? Or does it not drive at all in 2wd; only when 4wd is engage in "Low"? Or does the truck stall?
And this thread is titled "Just bought a Gen 2." Did you just buy a Gen 2? Does your question have anything to do with the rest of the thread? You'll get a lot better advice if you don't hide your question.
Just in case you don't know what "fail" means: you need to ask a question that at least tells us what the problem is. There is no "low range" on an auto trans. There is one on a transfer case. Do you mean your 4wd won't engage in "Hi"? Or does it not drive at all in 2wd; only when 4wd is engage in "Low"? Or does the truck stall?
And this thread is titled "Just bought a Gen 2." Did you just buy a Gen 2? Does your question have anything to do with the rest of the thread? You'll get a lot better advice if you don't hide your question.
Last edited by scope103; 07-08-2012 at 01:11 PM.
07-08-2012, 01:11 PM
#38
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