Jkelley429

iTrader: (1)

I finally got my engine back together yesterday. After having to remove the intake to repair the heater core hose, and then removing it again to replace the brass rings on the fuel rail supply. Then to top it all off i have a nice new hole in my radiator. So after replacing all that and adjusting the timing and valves, i noticed that the wire connector for the cold start injector switch(below the throttle body) wires had become loose and shorted out. I have the CEL code 22 which is a Water temperature sensor circuit fault. Does this possibly have anything to do with the cold start switch? I assumed that something was wrong with the coolant temp sensor due to the fact that the temperature gauge did not peak when my truck overheated the other day. I will do a resistance check when i get home to make sure. I also have a strange vacuum noise coming from my one of what i think are VSVs on the valve cover(if you are looking at the front of the engine it is the one closest to you). It also happened before that and i swapped the vacuum lines on it and it solved the problem, although the noise has returned. What could this be? I have noticed by looking at pictures that many of you do not have the triangular plate on the valve cover for the VSVs, is this a year thing or is it possible to bypass these and eliminate them all together? Also, my truck started up and ran fine yesterday, although when i got up this morning and tried to fire it up, it wouldn't start. Could this also have something to do with the cold start switch? Thanks for all the help you all have given me on this issue and many previously. I hope that im able to help others who need it when i get a little more yota experience.:wabbit2:

92dlxman

i would fix it asap. seriously you could just remove the intake, sense you sound like me and after removing it 1000 times for b.s. here and there are probly a master at it, and cut open that nasty ol wire loom. fix all yer problems and re-wrap it from the ignitor back to the grommet in the firewall. seriously you wont regret it and it just takes a few rolls of (HIGH QUALITY) electrical tape.

92dlxman

some liquid tape and new corrugated conduit stuff if you really wanted to get fancy

Jkelley429

iTrader: (1)

I actually took some old plastic and melted it down and coated the wires to keep them from shorting. My truck ran fine yesterday, although this morning when i went to start it it wouldn't run. I'm assuming that is the cold start switch causing that. Tell me if i'm wrong but it makes sense that the engine thinks its warm so it doesn't kick on the cold start injector when it really needs to. Also, does anyone know about the VSVs or if I can bypass them?

92dlxman

i betcha could, see what they are there for. the only one i know of for sure is a/c. the other two, who knows.

after seeing all the cool trucks on here that don't have em, i assumed they were just CA only smog related stuff.

Jkelley429

iTrader: (1)

ok, now after fixing the oil leak at the oil pump, it is leaking from somewhere on the passenger side and running down all over the oil filter, upper A arm, oil pan, axle, etc. It seems to be hitting the belt or some other moving part and slinging it somehow. The only thing i can think of in that approximate location that the oil could be coming from is the valve cover, although i dont see a leak from there. Are there any other places near there it could be leaking from because i really can't see a leak. Its a slow leak and i havent seen a loss of oil on the dipstick, but i still need to fix it ASAP. Thanks