notanymore

so my truck is an 87 pickup 22re and there is an intermittent problem, which has been seeming to be getting worse in the last few days. i will be driving along and my truck will start to sputter and the tach will be all over the place between about 1k and where ever it was previously. sometimes having my radio on or using blinkers/brakes will cause a sputter too but not all of the time. im not exactly sure where to begin with this

myyota

Check the wire from the battery to the fuse box under the hood, its known for breaking and causing electrical problems like your having now.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Interesting, ....My truck, even though it's better with a new CAM now,...still having some electrical issues where my voltage needle jumps up and down when the signal is even on.... or idle drops when braking or putting on headlights. I'm still chasing my issue down, and I'll be sure to share asap, ok?

Sounds like Myyota could be right. My issue improved, slightly, when replacing that wire. Unbolt the fusible link box he's speaking of, depress the clips on each side of the 80A fusible link, push it through the bottom and CAREFULLY remove the nuts. Mine did not want to cooperate. I ended up prying back the retainer-plate/ground-plate crimps and sliding new wire in there. That wasn't easy either, but not too bad.

I think I have some Chassis/body wiring that's giving me ghosts/grounding out, maybe?.... I can't seem to find any issues, anywhere else.

xxxtreme22r

I have that dimming headlight, dash light etc etc too especially with the heater on or the turn signals, but I tell you what i think it might be. My gauges go all crazy now that i put a 500W amp in and I blare the hell out of it. So with that said, something in there is either drawing too much current or most likely the voltage regulator in the alternator is starting to show signs of failing. Get your alternator and battery checked to rule those out. For me I think I am either gonna have to get a high output alternator or put at least a 1 farad cap on my amp.

myyota

Hey chef

When i replaced that wire on my 4Runner i pulled that fuse assembly out and cut the old power wire off, i replaced it with a piece of 4 gauge wire with heavy duty ring terminals soldered on. I also upgraded to a 95 amp alternator, so nothing dims anymore.

notanymore

well my alternator is fairly new and more than powerful enough, but i know that fuse and a friend broke it out of the box already so it kind of dangles there, ill have to double check to make sure that wire isnt loose or anything. and i do have that dimming headlight dash issue too

notanymore

the problem is still here and i cant firuge out whats wrong, i checked the wire from the battery to the fuse box and it seems to be good, so i am still lost.
i have a new gm one wire alternator that i added over a year ago and i have an optima yellow top battery that is only about 2 years old so it better not be one of those, its gotten worse, any small electrical load, like break lights will cause it to sputter and today leaving work it would start and idle just fine but givving it any gas would cause it to rev to 2kish and then die down back to an idle and back up again

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I've been told by many a Guru that "90% of the time or so.... It's the Battery, and while it will run and start, etc.,..IF it can not stand up to a 'load test', .....it may be done or need working on(trickle charging time)." Seeing that you have the 'GEL' type battery, i thought that wasn't really an issue. Hmmmm, trippy. Sorry you're dealing with this, man! I would load test the battery and alternator and then go from there. Sorry if you said you'd done that, but I didn't see it. Can you get it to Auto Zone or something and let them put their load tester on it for ya?