User 121523

I've looked at the other air conditioning-related problems on here and they don't seem to be the same as the one I'm having.

I've got an '87 4Runner (22R-E).

A month ago I had the A/C (R-12) evacuated and replaced with R-134 by a shop b/c the compressor would not come on when the A/C button was pushed (low R-12 level). The A/C now works, but intermittently. It doesn't matter if it's city or highway driving, either. It will work for anywhere from 7 minutes to an hour then not work. When not working (just blowing hot air) I can still hear the compressor disengage and re-engage when I push the button to turn it on/off respectively. Sometimes if I shut it off then back on it starts working again, but not always.

There is also a hissing that can be heard in the dashboard behind the glovebox sometimes when the A/C is on, or after I shut it off (even with the engine off).

Something else that is obviously wrong with it is that there is NO water discharge when the A/C is running (and working) like there has been on EVERY other air conditioned car I've ever driven.

Also, I've looked in the FSM and then searched high and low can't seem to find the "alleged" site glass for the A/C system. I thought it was on the truck's left over by the cylindrical thing that resides next to the radiator. (Sorry for all the technical terms, like "cylindrical thing." I have no clue what that contraption is.)

Okay, I think that's all. Thanks in advance for the help.

Aaron

swampfox

It might have moisture in the system causing it to freeze up. This could be from the change over to 134a not being done correctly. Hopefully someone might have a simple fix for you.

User 121523

I tore apart the condenser (?) housing behind the glove box and found some rodents had built a home out of stuffing and then left. Maybe this is their vacation home. Anyhow, I pulled/vacuumed it all out and so far (20 mins of driving) it blew cold cold cold. So it looks like the solution may have been the easiest one (all due regard to Occam's Razor).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

hahaha.... DANG VERMIN! Great to hear it's working.......

Was gonna say, "The Receiver/Drier" is toward the air intake from the radiator.... That should ALWAYS be replaced when evacuating the system, NO IF, AND'S OR BUT'S about it. It CAN be done, without opening the system...IF they evacuate it PERFECTLY..... but usually, the Drier can hold on to some stuff(??). Also, the seals within the system are different for R12... I believe the 134 can eat at them? Or vice versa... I resealed my whole system with all new Denso/o-rings for R12 and found some on line here in L.A.(R12 and the proper oil). that's another thing... The R12 oils, if any are left behind, don't work well with the 134 gas? Probably not a problem, as you're experiencing the Artic Cool! hahaha... But if it just slowly goes warm... I would look to the drier(if it's not new) and LARGE o-rings on top of the compressor(there are 4 on ours, 2 for each valve, hi and low). The drier can be had at dealerdirectparts.com for 34$, that's where I got mine, OEM.

Best wishes, and hope it's problem free from now on!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> I thought the condensor is the radiator looking bub in front of the radiator.... Maybe I'm wrong. I think that's just called "The air box" and air box filter, up under the dash(someone will maybe post the right name, hahaha)... Can you get new 'stuffing'?

User 121523

Thanks, ChefYota4x4. Great information. Hopefully the stuffing was causing something in there to get too hot and switch off. If not I may have to go have the thing evacuated again and replace all the seals and the receiver/dryer.

On a side related side note I replaced the fan motor resistor last night ($19.49 + tax at Advance Auto Parts, and 5 minutes of work) and now my blower works on low. The low part of the resistor was missing all but one loop and the whole thing was … shockingly … covered in stuffing! I'm kind of surprised it didn't start on fire.

As for what is the "condenser" and what is the "air box," also known as "mouse heaven," I'm not sure. Maybe somebody with professional A/C knowledge can chime in here and set us straight.

Rerunn

Sounds like your Yota pets nest wasn't allowing the moisture to drain of the evaporator not allowing the evaporator to remover the heat from the air in turn your AC didn't work.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Tribal.... Rerunn is right... I think, hehe... It's called the 'EVAP/AIR box'. I know on some models, the AC guys I have spoken to have told me it's good to replace them as the filters in them are not replaceable? Not sure what all that means, hahaa.... But I've not torn into the dash that far. Luckily, almost 16 months later, I'm still blowing cold. My worst leak was at the HI/LOW valves on the compressor itself. All the other seals seemed to be ok. I'm not so sure on which oils are worse with which, ya know? I know neither are compatible with the opposite gas. Not sure if that keeps the oil from doing it's job or if it makes it a corrosive situation.. or both? But I know the old R12 Mineral oils have to go with R12, NOT the PG stuff(Again, not sure what they're called... I just know R134 oil doesn't work right with R12. Napa sells good quality oils for either. I think RV's have freon that's similar to R12.... and it needs different oils than the R134 oils as well? I think there are supposed to be some 134 gas cans that you will read on there, "Ok to mix with existing R12"? I've been told that stuff is crap... But what I KNOW for a fact is good practice???? GO TO AN OLDER GUY WHO RUNS HIS OWN AC SHOP! hahaha... he will give you all the 'FAQ's' answers. And a good one, like I have, will help ya do it right. You probably have....

I would wait to see if the evap fix/being sure you have ENOUGH charge in there is doing the trick before you buy ANY more parts... Or tear it apart and lose all that gas to get new 0-ring seals in there, ya know? Ask someone you know who's in the know, "Should I have put a new OEM Drier in, while/AFTER evacuating and before recharging the whole system?" Maybe that's a matter of opinion thing, not sure... BUT I KNOW that this 50 year tech told me, 'You have to PROPERLY evacuate the system, even using cleaners, etc., when switching gas/oils(to prevent mixing of the oils) ...and then load with vacuum and purge again. When you pull the vacuum attachment off and test pressure, the vacuum pressure should be noticeable/measurable, around 30IN. THEN, when you start the rig, flip on the AC , you should have a system that is DRY/ aside from the proper oils(which are added with most cool-gas nowadays)...., and THEN, you slap that gas on there and charge her up.... Then watch the drier glass... You'll know, right from there, when the system is purged of all air. Air is bad, why? Because the moisture that's in it..H20- Moisture is THE DEVIL to AC systems. Watch that glass and it will clear up when it's full and stop showing bubbles at all... You'll see 'clear' or colored, depending on the gas you use." He told me a LOT more, but my point is... TRUST THE PRO'S! I already had mine off due to rebuilding a second time... So I made sure my clutch was good... Ordered up some R-12 and R-12/OIL charge cans as well, the proper R12 hose/valve... then, after replacing every o-ring I could(17 or so?), I charged it up.

I'm about to refill the CRV with 134, today.... 10 years it lasted... pretty good. HOPING for no leaks... We'll see. the thing is SOLID and rust FREE, no collisions on that stuff... Should be fine. I think HONDA, like many others, don't plan on it lasting past 10 years/100K miles, anyway. Just make sure you're not in Yucaipa when your air cond. quits working! hahaha.