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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 01-19-2008, 09:01 AM   #1
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Instruction on valve adjustment 22re

Hello everyone,

I got the 22re working and running, now that I have put a zero mile, brand new head on the motor, I need to do a valve adjustment and wanted to get a few tips and tricks to make sure I am doing it right.

I looked for threads that had the adjustment process, but havent had luck finding a short step-by-step process. Also, and tips or pointers while doing it would be nice too. Thanks ya'll.
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:11 AM   #2
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adj valves

i use the haynes manual it is real clear n how to do it it has to be done in the proper order
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:22 AM   #3
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Bring the motor up to TDC, adj the exhaust valves on cyls 1 & 3 and the intake valves in cyls 1&2. Roll the motor over 180 deg then adjust # 2 & 4 on the exhaust and 3 & 4 on the intake. Adjust the intakes at .007 and the exhaust at .011. Factory is 8 & 12 but I like to make them a thou tighter to reduce noise. Since it is a new head, go back in 500-1000 mi and readjust them again
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:25 AM   #4
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http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/En...valve%20adjust
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:36 AM   #5
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harley ough
dont forget to get it up to operating temp before starting (which sucks because it is HOT, i miss my honda- done when motor is cold)
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:41 AM   #6
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i'm not sure it's vital to do it in the right order, as long as the valve you're adjusting isn't under pressure from the rockers. they give you that procedure to ensure you're not adjusting on an intake/exhaust stroke; you should be adjusting on the compression stroke.

seems like you should be able to just turn the crank until you can feel play in the valve you're adjusting, then adjust it. if there's no play, you're not on the compression stroke.
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:48 AM   #7
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Here's a good thread:
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/all-ticking-129704/
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INFINITY View Post
dont forget to get it up to operating temp before starting (which sucks because it is HOT, i miss my honda- done when motor is cold)
yeah, but if everything is new, do an initial adjustment cold, so you don't have one valve opening far too much. then, definitely set them hot. besides it's great training--sorta like that old game "operation" (?), get a buzz if tweezers hit the edges. only here you get a gooood burn. focus grasshopper!
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:38 AM   #9
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valves

when i did my head i had to adjust the valves after about 200 miles. i set both my gaps to .003 and no noise comes out of that motor, runs amazing. soon there after another valve adj. about 500 miles later. no problems sence, i recomend not setting your vavles at stock, you will end up flatening the tops of your valves, go tthis advice from a buddy of mine that races pro-street.
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:09 AM   #10
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Really? That's interesting. How long has your buddy been racing and working on motors? Particularly, the 22re?
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Oh...that was me thinking...then stopping mid sentence...then some more babbling and such. LOL
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Beautiful link and description of process......thank you for this link.
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:41 PM   #12
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I don't know whether anyone else has done this, but the first time I adjusted my valves, I used the feeler gauge between the camshaft and the rocker. That is wrong, though it does work. The feeler gauge goes between the valve tip and the adjusting screw.
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Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:47 PM   #13
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My Toyota manual says the valve lash should be set at 0.008 and 0.012 COLD. The goes against everything else I've been told or read. I've adjusted hot, but is that right?
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Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:59 PM   #14
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when i did my head i had to adjust the valves after about 200 miles. i set both my gaps to .003 and no noise comes out of that motor, runs amazing. soon there after another valve adj. about 500 miles later. no problems sence, i recomend not setting your vavles at stock, you will end up flatening the tops of your valves, go tthis advice from a buddy of mine that races pro-street.
Do that and you will burn valves big time. BAD ADVICE
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Old 01-19-2008, 04:19 PM   #15
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I thought burning valves was from having them too LOOSE. Valves are cooled by coming in contact with the head are they not? The head I thought, served as a heat sink.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:05 PM   #16
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TIGHT valves burn. Loose valves are noisy. .001 thou tighter than spec is perfect for performance and noise reduction
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:31 PM   #17
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My knowledge is purely theoretical, but if the valves have no way to dissipate heat (ie using the head as a heat sink) the how do they cool?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:57 PM   #18
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if the gap is too small the valves wont close all the way when the motor is hotter than normal, which can cause them to burn, and loss of power (exhaust escaping during the power stroke). My manual says do it warm. I say do it warm. They're a hell of a lot quieter warm. If you do a search you'll see a ton of threads on this, and people either say it works fine doing em a little smaller cold, or it doesen't, but no one complains hot, so why bother having to do it twice?

Yeah the technique described is just so that the load is off the rocker arm. I do em out of order, and after i'm done i spin it over a couple times by hand, and then recheck em all.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:51 PM   #19
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Hold on, I've thought about it a little better and I see now, how tight valves burn. I was thinking the tighter the lash, the longer the valve comes in contact with the head. That is wrong, ignore what I said. I stand corrected.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:19 AM   #20
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Hi! If the Toyota manual says do it warm then go by the manufacturers specifications. When I worked on motorcycles, the manufacturers manuals had the valve lash being set with the engine cold. I believe the reason being that cold is cold,(room temperature, un-run), where as warm may still not be constant throughout the engine, i.e. some cylinders may be richer or leaner than others, varying the the temperature of each combustion chamber, thereby varying the temperature of each valve. I'm sure that Toyota determined their clearances to be an average of what will work on the vast majority of each particular model of engine. Because of mass production, each engine will have slightly different tolerances. If a tighter clearance works on one engine, you could possibly get the same performance result on a different engine by setting the clearance a tad looser. The exhaust clearance is always larger because the hot exhaust gasses pass by it causing it to expand more than the intake which stays cooler overall because of the colder intake charge that rushes by it.
I was told that to get the proper feel of the feeler gauge drag, set a phone book down, open it about three quarters of the way through it,( a big phone book, not on of those little rural ones!),set the feeler gauge in it, close the book, and gently pull the feller gauge out, it should give you that slight drag feel that everyone talks about. Do it a few times, and you'll know how to set the lash properly. Most of the time when the feeler gauge is in the valve, wiggle the feeler back and forth as you tighten the lash, and the right feel will be right before the valve stem grabs the feeler! So basically, right before 'lockup'!!
I hope you all haven't fallen asleep yet, and I hope this helps, and this is what I believe to be correct....I welcome any comments and criticisms!!!
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:19 AM
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