Idler arm?
#3
Yes, I took one apart. No, it's not repairable. In the sense that you could get parts to fix it. You could get inventive with it though. The part that wears out is rubber. Maybe you could fab something to work out of a stronger material. Getting it apart isn't the only trick. It's not meant to come apart...ever...for any reason. Then you're stuck trying to figure out how to make it "one piece" again. Got a welder? Don't melt whatever you put in there welding it shut. Good luck with that....
I modified/upgraded mine by tearing out the guts. Then pressing in a steel sleeve and using a ⅝" grade 5 bolt. Which also required reaming out the hole in the center link/relay rod for the bolt. I made my own castellated nut for the bolt, and drilled a hole in it for a cotter pin.
I modified/upgraded mine by tearing out the guts. Then pressing in a steel sleeve and using a ⅝" grade 5 bolt. Which also required reaming out the hole in the center link/relay rod for the bolt. I made my own castellated nut for the bolt, and drilled a hole in it for a cotter pin.
Last edited by MudHippy; 03-17-2016 at 09:24 AM.
#5
Well first I know you can buy a after market one, I did before I took this one off.
i was just interested in knowing if you can rebuild one of these as there really isn't much to it only the parts aren't available and like mudhippy you would have to fab one yourself.
i was just interested in knowing if you can rebuild one of these as there really isn't much to it only the parts aren't available and like mudhippy you would have to fab one yourself.
#6
86-88 4WD Truck/4Runner = 18mm shaft
89-95 4WD Truck/4Runner = 19.5mm shaft
Some aftermarket idler arms have a larger than stock 20mm shaft.
#7
Registered User
I modified/upgraded mine by tearing out the guts. Then pressing in a steel sleeve and using a ⅝" grade 5 bolt. Which also required reaming out the hole in the center link/relay rod for the bolt. I made my own castellated nut for the bolt, and drilled a hole in it for a cotter pin.
One of the reasons I am doing a complete frontend rebuild is the approx 245000mi and the fact that I am going through idler arms. Per this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-issue-283682/ the last idler arm was replaced in October 2014 and is shot after approx 15000 miles, same problem ball end not the shaft.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited by Andy A; 03-21-2016 at 02:52 AM.
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#10
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
if the ball end of the idler is in that sort of condition, the rest of the idler has the same wear. the only thing i know is officially serviceable on an idler is the bushings inside for the main shaft. even with a fresh rebuild, it's still not going to be as strong as an aftermarket upgrade, or even further - aftermarket + idler brace + brass bushings inside. it used to be the FA5040 idler arm, but now it's not being made.
here's some info for you: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml
here's some info for you: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml
#12
Registered User
A spherical bearing, if one could find the right size to fit in the idler arm end should work pretty darn good also. Would need a couple of spacers also. Trying to keep dirt out of the bearing might be a challenge though.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited by Andy A; 03-22-2016 at 09:24 PM.
#13
Registered User
The bad one I have now is a Duralast FA5040, I will have to pay attention to what is in the box when I exchange it.
According to the 4crawler page that was posted the only arm listed that is not a crap shoot for a larger diameter shaft is the Pro-Forged 102-10045.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited by Andy A; 03-23-2016 at 01:38 AM.
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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
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03-31-2016 05:41 AM