i wanna hear some motor oil arguments
i wanna hear some motor oil arguments
11-13-2007, 01:49 PM
#6
In my 3VZE, 10w-40 Castrol Synthetic. 10w-30 is too thin for it, runs better and burns way less with the 10w-40 and a bottle of the STP oil treat. at every change. 218,000 miles on it, no rebuild. I would NEVER in a million years run anything lighter, say the 0w-20 or 5w-20(or anything that ends with 20)like some folks been jabberin' on about on here. That's asinine. Maybe I'll try some 15w-40 or 20w-50 instead thanks.
Oh, you wanna learn somethin'? Read this. Then tell me I'm wrong about the 0w-20/5w-20 weight oils. HAH! What a joke.
Oh, you wanna learn somethin'? Read this. Then tell me I'm wrong about the 0w-20/5w-20 weight oils. HAH! What a joke.
In 1994, Dr. John Woolum tested the viscosity of several 10w-40 oils in his motorcycle. He found that all of the petroleum oils had lost highly significant amounts of viscosity within 1500 miles. Only Mobil-1 held up in his test. I have personally tested Delvac-1 synthetic in my ST1300. It was 5w-40 when I put it in, and 5w-25 9,200 miles later. By 1500 miles, the petroleum oils Dr. Woolum tested were at 10w-25 equivalent. By contrast, Dr. Woolum tested a petroleum oil in his Honda Accord. After 3600 miles, the 10w-40 oil was 10w-37 equivalent. Motorcycles are indeed significantly harder on their oils than cars. Based on this result and the VI numbers above, it would seem that 10w-40, 5w-20, and 5w-30 oils cannot be safely used in motorcycles for more than 1,000 to 1,500 miles.
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-13-2007 at 02:07 PM.
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11-13-2007, 02:06 PM
#8
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Nice, I wish my truck only wasted that lil. It is started to burn quite a bit. I have to add like 1.5 quarts or more between oil changes (every 4K). I use whatever to be honest. I don't go for some particular brand, although I have been using Valvoline 10w30 lately because I've been getting it cheap. I need to learn more about oil so I know WTF I am doing. I do all my own oil changes and I have 4 vehicles.
11-13-2007, 02:21 PM
#9
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I'm sure you'd come up with a lot of information from this site with a search. I run 10w-30 Penzoil High Mileage in my truck year 'round. Some'll switch to 5-30 in the winter time but I like to keep my oil a constant. I think Penzoil is a reputable company. The high mileage formulas are supposed to 'condition' various seals & gaskets (and rings?). I doubt you could go wrong with any major brand. I have heard some critisims about Quaker State--there being too many cleansing agents.
11-13-2007, 03:17 PM
#11
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10m-30 Napa Special for me.
If you ask me it doesnt matter what kind of oil you run its a truck.
Just change it every 3k and all is well.
I know that if you switch from mineral base to synthatic base after a long period of use it will eat all your o-rings and make her leak.
Stick to one type and run it.
If you ask me it doesnt matter what kind of oil you run its a truck.
Just change it every 3k and all is well.
I know that if you switch from mineral base to synthatic base after a long period of use it will eat all your o-rings and make her leak.
Stick to one type and run it.
11-13-2007, 06:35 PM
#14
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Supertech walmart brand 10w-30, cheap and apparently says made by texaco last time i checked. the oil is usually made by a major oil producer anyways. Why pay out the arse for oil you dump out every 3k?
11-13-2007, 07:09 PM
#17
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Mobil 1 10-30.... and i steal a filter from whatever tire or lube shop i'm working at. Gotta love bulk.
5.25 quarts... keeps the pressure a bit higher at idle. i dont like watching that pressure guage drop on the 3.slows at idle.
Next time, I'm gonna do 4.25 of mobil 1 10-30, and 1 quart of lucas oil. Just out of curiosity.
5.25 quarts... keeps the pressure a bit higher at idle. i dont like watching that pressure guage drop on the 3.slows at idle.
Next time, I'm gonna do 4.25 of mobil 1 10-30, and 1 quart of lucas oil. Just out of curiosity.
11-13-2007, 07:55 PM
#18
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Castrol or Valvaline; you can't go wrong either one. Pennzoil had sludging problems in the past since they used a lot of paraffin in their oils at one time. They may have fixed that issue but I'm not taking the risk. I believe Quaker State is or was recycled oil for some time. Mobile 1 synthetic oil always seemed much thinner than what they advertised and I got a lot of valve train noses using it (never used it in the yota). I've read this issue isn't uncommon at all.
The Yoty gets 15-40 shell Rotella diesel oil since 22r motors have loose tolerances. Diesel oil also has more zinc than conventional, which has been reduced to almost nothing due to emission reasons. That's ok for roller rocker valve train setups, but it'll cause camshaft and lifter failures in non roller rocker setups. Only conventional oil has been used in the Yota since it was new so syth is out of the question. It doesn?t leak any oil and I'd like to keep it that way by using dino oil only.
The Yoty gets 15-40 shell Rotella diesel oil since 22r motors have loose tolerances. Diesel oil also has more zinc than conventional, which has been reduced to almost nothing due to emission reasons. That's ok for roller rocker valve train setups, but it'll cause camshaft and lifter failures in non roller rocker setups. Only conventional oil has been used in the Yota since it was new so syth is out of the question. It doesn?t leak any oil and I'd like to keep it that way by using dino oil only.
11-13-2007, 07:59 PM
#19
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Conventional wisdom has always been that oil gets thicker, not thinner, as it deals with fuel contamination and being burned off.
I run Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic. Mobil 1 synthetic oils are recommended, by Canadian Toyota Canada and used at Toyota dealerships for those who specify synthetic oil at their oil change.
I run Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic. Mobil 1 synthetic oils are recommended, by Canadian Toyota Canada and used at Toyota dealerships for those who specify synthetic oil at their oil change.
11-14-2007, 02:16 AM
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I've used castrol high mileage, penzoil, mobil 1, kendall High mileage, and supertech. any oil that has an API rating and API seal on it I'll use Castrol and Mobil are my top choices though. also I would stick with the recommended weight for your climate and driving style usually the lighter weight is best if you don't have issues. I used to work at a dragstrip and I thought it was funny to see some of these high dollar cars running "race oil" (20w-50)???? its adding weight to your rotating assemble and its more like a lubricating gel than oil how would that help your performance! some of the better racers use 3quarts( just enough to keep the pump cover during acceleration) and they use as light of oil as possible allowing their engine to rev easier!!
