Help setup up 1st Gen 4runner Suspension

bikeguy18974 · 11-06-2006, 08:14 AM

Current Setup:
Rear - 3" Superlift leaf srpings w/ cheapy autozone extended shackles (in shortest setting) about 6" lift

Front - 4" superlift w/ ball joint spacers and stock torsion bars set to level the truck.

Procomp MX-6 shock set on softest setting.

The runner rides super stiff and see more than 85% road time. I want to change the suspension to provide a softer more flexible ride and save some wear and tear on parts.

For the front I want to remove the ball joint spacers. For a better ride should I run stock torsion bars on a close to factory setting or should I run SAW torsions backed off most of the way.

For the rear I want a new bolt in lift spring that uses stock hangers. From searching it seems that skyjacker and OME have a decent rep for the ride I want. However I can't find any info on OME leaf springs. I need about a 4" lift and figure I could get it with some combo of spring and shackle. Any other springs that I should consider?

If you saw my post last week I will be ditching the 35's. I've decided to go with the 33 x 10.5 BFG AT as its available in a 15" rim that I already have and locally at a good price.

Thanks

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AH64ID · 11-06-2006, 08:20 AM

Leaving the BJ spacers in will allow for a softer ride for any given height.

Depending on your budget the very best option for the rear would be a 56" setup. Longer springs are more plentiful and a softer. I would look at the trail-gear setup at its the cheapest, considering shipping is free.

Once you get a 4" spring out back and shorter shackle you can set the front to match. With the BJ spacers in the torsion bars are at a softer setting that they would be without.

Overall the most flex and softest ride will happen by keeping the BJ spacers and going to a 56" leaf in the rear.

4Crawler · 11-06-2006, 09:36 AM

OME spring info:
- http://www.arbusa.com/suspension.php

You don't need 4" of lift to run 33x10.50s:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

larc68 · 11-07-2006, 01:32 PM

I just bought a set of OME springs for the rear of my 88 4r and installed them this past Saturday. They are really stiff. I know they are new and hopefully will soften up some, but I was really surprised how stiff they are. My 01 tacoma's OME leafs werent that bad.

4Crawler · 11-07-2006, 01:42 PM

Which version did you get, the regular or the heavy duty ones?
Some options to break them in faster are to add some weight to the back of the 4Runner for a while, take it off-road and flex them up well or pull a leaf out of the pack for a while (the 2nd to shortest is a good one to pull).

larc68 · 11-08-2006, 06:58 AM

To be honest, I dont know. This was the part number SUOMCS009R. I had some weight in there for a couple day and i just added more. Hopefully they will soften up some. If they dont, then I will try pulling the leaf. Thanks for the advice.

AH64ID · 11-09-2006, 04:38 AM

Those are the med duty one, the lightest available. Put some weight in the back of your runner then go drive somewhere that allowing the suspension to flex a ton.

bikeguy18974 · 11-10-2006, 02:06 AM

I've ordered the medium duty springs and will keep in mind they may need some weight to settle. I'l drive around with the 35's in the back for a while.

The reason I want to remove the ball joint spacers is twofold. First I don't like the angle the tie rods and cv's are at. Although not horrible I just don't like the look of it. Also in a post I did what seems like forever ago I complained about not being able to hit the bumpstops when I jack up the front wheel (not full travel). I eventually learned that the back of (engine side)upper control arm was hitting the frame. I never figured out how to fix it but also never did anything to bottom out (luckily). Otherwise I'd leave the spacers and back off the torsions all the way.

4everunner · 12-05-2006, 01:18 PM

I have SJ 6" springs in the rear of my 88 Runner with 'stock' (slightly longer) greasable shackles. After install with the soft top on they rode like bricks. They are now starting to flex and break in with the hard top and me hitting some ruts etc.
I had 4" block on stock spring with AAL on my old 4runner (wrecked) and that rode much nicer then these new springs do. Aside from the better look of the springs, I think I prefer the block whcih surprises me.

Ultimately I also took out the Overload on the SJ springs to reduce ride height and tweak drive line vibration issues. and I ended up getting a CV driveaxle, I could not find a drivline angle with the SJ 6" spring that didn't make the chainsaw sound when I came off the gas or shake the truck like a martini at 20mph.
For a while I yanked off the driveshaft and ran FWD/4WD just to get around with out tearing apart the drivetrain until the CV driveshaft arrived. That fixed everything.

I too have the Superlift in the front with out ball joint spacers, this retains the stock drveline and has been fine in both of the applications I've used it in.

11-06-2006, 08:20 AM	#2 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	Leaving the BJ spacers in will allow for a softer ride for any given height. Depending on your budget the very best option for the rear would be a 56" setup. Longer springs are more plentiful and a softer. I would look at the trail-gear setup at its the cheapest, considering shipping is free. Once you get a 4" spring out back and shorter shackle you can set the front to match. With the BJ spacers in the torsion bars are at a softer setting that they would be without. Overall the most flex and softest ride will happen by keeping the BJ spacers and going to a 56" leaf in the rear. __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

11-06-2006, 09:36 AM	#3 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,828	OME spring info: - http://www.arbusa.com/suspension.php You don't need 4" of lift to run 33x10.50s: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10 __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

11-07-2006, 01:42 PM	#5 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,828	Which version did you get, the regular or the heavy duty ones? Some options to break them in faster are to add some weight to the back of the 4Runner for a while, take it off-road and flex them up well or pull a leaf out of the pack for a while (the 2nd to shortest is a good one to pull). __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

11-09-2006, 04:38 AM	#7 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	Those are the med duty one, the lightest available. Put some weight in the back of your runner then go drive somewhere that allowing the suspension to flex a ton. __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

11-10-2006, 02:06 AM	#8 (permalink)
bikeguy18974 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: outside philly Posts: 88	I've ordered the medium duty springs and will keep in mind they may need some weight to settle. I'l drive around with the 35's in the back for a while. The reason I want to remove the ball joint spacers is twofold. First I don't like the angle the tie rods and cv's are at. Although not horrible I just don't like the look of it. Also in a post I did what seems like forever ago I complained about not being able to hit the bumpstops when I jack up the front wheel (not full travel). I eventually learned that the back of (engine side)upper control arm was hitting the frame. I never figured out how to fix it but also never did anything to bottom out (luckily). Otherwise I'd leave the spacers and back off the torsions all the way. __________________ 86 4runner 22RE, auto. 4" Superlift, body lift, ball joint spacers, OME Dakar rear springs, 35's replaced with 33x10.5

11-07-2006, 01:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
larc68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: ashburn va Posts: 97	I just bought a set of OME springs for the rear of my 88 4r and installed them this past Saturday. They are really stiff. I know they are new and hopefully will soften up some, but I was really surprised how stiff they are. My 01 tacoma's OME leafs werent that bad.

11-08-2006, 06:58 AM	#6 (permalink)
larc68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: ashburn va Posts: 97	To be honest, I dont know. This was the part number SUOMCS009R. I had some weight in there for a couple day and i just added more. Hopefully they will soften up some. If they dont, then I will try pulling the leaf. Thanks for the advice.

12-05-2006, 01:18 PM	#9 (permalink)
4everunner Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Virginia Beach Baby! Posts: 13	SkyJacker Springs are stiff too I have SJ 6" springs in the rear of my 88 Runner with 'stock' (slightly longer) greasable shackles. After install with the soft top on they rode like bricks. They are now starting to flex and break in with the hard top and me hitting some ruts etc. I had 4" block on stock spring with AAL on my old 4runner (wrecked) and that rode much nicer then these new springs do. Aside from the better look of the springs, I think I prefer the block whcih surprises me. Ultimately I also took out the Overload on the SJ springs to reduce ride height and tweak drive line vibration issues. and I ended up getting a CV driveaxle, I could not find a drivline angle with the SJ 6" spring that didn't make the chainsaw sound when I came off the gas or shake the truck like a martini at 20mph. For a while I yanked off the driveshaft and ran FWD/4WD just to get around with out tearing apart the drivetrain until the CV driveshaft arrived. That fixed everything. I too have the Superlift in the front with out ball joint spacers, this retains the stock drveline and has been fine in both of the applications I've used it in. __________________ Bill's Tonka Toy: 88 4Runner SR5 3.0, 4" Superlift IFS lift, 6" SkyJacker Springs, AZ Driveline CV drive shaft. K&N Air Filter in otherwise Stock Engine. Performance Exhaust, Kayline (STC) soft top w/4Crawler install adapter kit. Aussie Locker (To be installed w/ regear). 31" Bridgestone Dueler AT Revos on US Wheel custom backspaced 3.125" 16" wheels. Wet Okole custom matched seat covers to exterior and arm rest. Tube Roof Rack, and bumper with 2" receiver.

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