GM Alternator Swap - Questions
01-18-2014, 07:30 PM
#41
dead wrong! from your link: "IF Battery Goes Out or is Disconnected, Alternator will provide necessary power to stock circuit and accessory circuits. Stock circuit protection stays unaffected."
here's a quick explanation of why that is a very bad idea:
"The moment he disconnects either lead from your battery, it's entirely possible he caused thousands of dollars in damage. Here's why...
Your battery does more than just yield electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's even possible for the alternator to put out hundreds of volts, frying everything.
Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.
Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery."
http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm
here's a quick explanation of why that is a very bad idea:
"The moment he disconnects either lead from your battery, it's entirely possible he caused thousands of dollars in damage. Here's why...
Your battery does more than just yield electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's even possible for the alternator to put out hundreds of volts, frying everything.
Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.
Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery."
http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm
However my post is not meant to encourage people to disconnect the battery intentionally while alternator is running, but to address the WCS where:
1) Battery failure disconnected post from cells internally to the battery (realy happened), and
2) IF I were actually running accessories.
I know about not intentionally disconnecting the battery while ignition is on. IN my WCS mentioned the battery is not disconnected intentionally by a person. Where the post goes through the battery housing it came loose (acid was coming out of the post-housing interface). Meaning it was getting disconnected from the the cells internally, possibly from repeated handling/vibration- not by someone loosening up the connector then removing it.
There is not much that one can do about the potential spikes when above happens, regardless of whether alt is connected directly to battery or through fusible link wire. Therefore that is not the point of my wiring scheme.
The point of my WCS is IF, and only IF, battery fails UN-expectedly or is disconnected accidentally while auxiliary circuits are running or while winching, AND alternator is running, those circuits (lights, winch, etc) will not draw current from the alternator through the 80-Amp fusible link (in orange on this drawing).
BTW, If you took a closer look at my scheme, you would see that Alt "B" output is electrically connected directly to the battery (through proper fusible link), just like the GM circuit above.
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