Gassy gas tank mess...need insight
#1
Gassy gas tank mess...need insight
All
I was running a cable along the wiring harness of my 92 Xcab, when (oh joy) I hear a hiss and gas is poring out of somewhere near the gas tank. Only leaks when under pressure (gas cap on, engine turning over). After much digging -- seems to be coming from the top of the fuel pump bracket?. I say "?" cuz I can't see it. Can see the lines running into it, they seem OK. But can feel lots of rust on the top of the bracket, and see a lot on the tubes coming off it. Figure I must have sprung a leak or crack. It would also seem like the pump is working fine, given the gas spraying all over?
Of course I won't be able to tell to I get it off, but since this is the NE, it;s 30 degrees, I have no garage, thought I would ask for insights before starting. Have already gone to [https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-efi-129414/]
I am assuming I need a new bracket, but loathe to change the pump (133k miles, runs fine)...anything else to think about?
Thanks
I was running a cable along the wiring harness of my 92 Xcab, when (oh joy) I hear a hiss and gas is poring out of somewhere near the gas tank. Only leaks when under pressure (gas cap on, engine turning over). After much digging -- seems to be coming from the top of the fuel pump bracket?. I say "?" cuz I can't see it. Can see the lines running into it, they seem OK. But can feel lots of rust on the top of the bracket, and see a lot on the tubes coming off it. Figure I must have sprung a leak or crack. It would also seem like the pump is working fine, given the gas spraying all over?
Of course I won't be able to tell to I get it off, but since this is the NE, it;s 30 degrees, I have no garage, thought I would ask for insights before starting. Have already gone to [https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-efi-129414/]
I am assuming I need a new bracket, but loathe to change the pump (133k miles, runs fine)...anything else to think about?
Thanks
#2
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Squiddy
I just did this change about a month ago. It was the lines coming off the bracket. Reach up there and you will be able to feel that they are rust.
One other thing to check is the fuel line running from the tank to the fuel filter. That line was starting to get rusty on mine.
Is your a V6?
osr
Ps. Go buy a mechanic's mirror, get a flash light and then look up over the tank.
I just did this change about a month ago. It was the lines coming off the bracket. Reach up there and you will be able to feel that they are rust.
One other thing to check is the fuel line running from the tank to the fuel filter. That line was starting to get rusty on mine.
Is your a V6?
osr
Ps. Go buy a mechanic's mirror, get a flash light and then look up over the tank.
Last edited by osr436; 12-10-2007 at 06:56 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
If you're going to fix it yourself, I'd lift the bed up on that side and get to it that way.
Take out the bed mounting bolts on the tanks side, just loosen the bed mounting bolts on the other side but don't take them out (that will keep the bed from sliding off). You'll also need to remove fuel cap and the screws holding the gas filler tube to the body (3 screws inside the gas flap door) then put a bottle jack on top of the tire and lift the bed up enough to get to the tank top. A 2x6 block of wood on top of the bottle jack helps spread the load. There are 2 lines, one high-pressure line to the filter and engine and one low-pressure line that returns unused gas to the tank.
Take out the bed mounting bolts on the tanks side, just loosen the bed mounting bolts on the other side but don't take them out (that will keep the bed from sliding off). You'll also need to remove fuel cap and the screws holding the gas filler tube to the body (3 screws inside the gas flap door) then put a bottle jack on top of the tire and lift the bed up enough to get to the tank top. A 2x6 block of wood on top of the bottle jack helps spread the load. There are 2 lines, one high-pressure line to the filter and engine and one low-pressure line that returns unused gas to the tank.
#5
Registered User
If you find (with the mirro) that you have to drop the tank and replace it (you probably will), start soaking everything you can reach with PB Blaster. Anticipate a bolt or two breaking.....considering there is rust.
(EDIT: Oh....right, Dale. Didn't think of that...lol.)
Still, soak'em good.
(EDIT: Oh....right, Dale. Didn't think of that...lol.)
Still, soak'em good.
Last edited by thook; 12-10-2007 at 06:39 AM.
#6
Registered User
I ended up with a new OEM pump bracket as well as OEM hard lines.
I THOUGHT about a SS conversion but since I was paying shop rates I went with OEM. I can always drop the tank myself and swap over to SS lines...
Since there is a 3RZ on the "wish list" I may go whole hog and move the gas tank to the other side...
I THOUGHT about a SS conversion but since I was paying shop rates I went with OEM. I can always drop the tank myself and swap over to SS lines...
Since there is a 3RZ on the "wish list" I may go whole hog and move the gas tank to the other side...
#7
Great responses, thanks.
It's a V6. Lifting the bed is problematic [tho a cool idea] because I have a cap bolted on, as well as semi-permanently bolted on stuff in the bed. Plus, under the truck I am at least shielded from the snow (!)
I have felt around on top, and the lines off the bracket seem REALLY rusty. I think that water pools up here ... gas certainly does.
I figure that a shop job will cost a lot... so planning to do myself. Believe me, PB blaster and I are great buds and the stuff is soaking on there already.
Question to "osr-" does the bracket kit come with screws? Along the same line, would think there was a gasket here, but doesn't seem to be the case from the parts diagrams
D
It's a V6. Lifting the bed is problematic [tho a cool idea] because I have a cap bolted on, as well as semi-permanently bolted on stuff in the bed. Plus, under the truck I am at least shielded from the snow (!)
I have felt around on top, and the lines off the bracket seem REALLY rusty. I think that water pools up here ... gas certainly does.
I figure that a shop job will cost a lot... so planning to do myself. Believe me, PB blaster and I are great buds and the stuff is soaking on there already.
Question to "osr-" does the bracket kit come with screws? Along the same line, would think there was a gasket here, but doesn't seem to be the case from the parts diagrams
D
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#8
Registered User
AFAIK the bracket does NOT come with the screws.
Get new screws IMHO.
There is a gasket too - I'd get a new gasket if it were me.
If you are doing the work and can afford it - replace ALL the hard lines that run behind the tank (fuel, brake and I think a return line for the fuel) so you wont have to redo the mess again.
Also - put paint mark on the rubber line so you know which one goes where - heck take a digi cam shot of it while you are there.
I had em redo the all the lines since they had to drop the tank.
Get new screws IMHO.
There is a gasket too - I'd get a new gasket if it were me.
If you are doing the work and can afford it - replace ALL the hard lines that run behind the tank (fuel, brake and I think a return line for the fuel) so you wont have to redo the mess again.
Also - put paint mark on the rubber line so you know which one goes where - heck take a digi cam shot of it while you are there.
I had em redo the all the lines since they had to drop the tank.
#9
Contributing Member
If you're going to replace the rear brake lines too you might as well drop the tank though. Get it as empty as you can.
#10
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Squiddy
As the person a few replies before said the bracket does not come with the screws, it is also missing the rubber gasket. Both of these are a must!
I bought half the parts from Concelli online and the other half from the dealership. I have all the part numbers if you want them.
I dropped the tank, I did not pull the bed. Overall it was an easy job, the difficult part was getting the fuel filter off. I decided to replace that since I would be covered in gas and it was just logical.
Tips;
Take the filler neck off at the tank.
Make sure you un-snap the wiring harness to the fuel pump but also the fuel gauge sending unit, located further back on the take.
Used a floor just to lower and raise the tank.
Let me know if you need anything else.
osr
As the person a few replies before said the bracket does not come with the screws, it is also missing the rubber gasket. Both of these are a must!
I bought half the parts from Concelli online and the other half from the dealership. I have all the part numbers if you want them.
I dropped the tank, I did not pull the bed. Overall it was an easy job, the difficult part was getting the fuel filter off. I decided to replace that since I would be covered in gas and it was just logical.
Tips;
Take the filler neck off at the tank.
Make sure you un-snap the wiring harness to the fuel pump but also the fuel gauge sending unit, located further back on the take.
Used a floor just to lower and raise the tank.
Let me know if you need anything else.
osr
#11
osr
while I have the part number for the bracket (2320635101 I believe), the numbers for the screws and gasket would be great, as I can't find them. PLus I figure everybody else on the sight might need them at some point.
Given the slush outside I am likely to skip the fuel filter though!
DMK
while I have the part number for the bracket (2320635101 I believe), the numbers for the screws and gasket would be great, as I can't find them. PLus I figure everybody else on the sight might need them at some point.
Given the slush outside I am likely to skip the fuel filter though!
DMK
#12
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Location: Where it always works if you work it, in Sunny Selinsgrove, PA
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Just replaced this a week ago.
what happens is the high pressure side breaks down from all the rust.
for a V6 truck, the bracket is about $112 from Toyota. with the new bolts, a new gasket, and the bracket, it cost me $124 or something like that with PA sales tax of 6%.
My service adviser at the Stealership said this is a very common problem with these trucks.
what happens is the high pressure side breaks down from all the rust.
for a V6 truck, the bracket is about $112 from Toyota. with the new bolts, a new gasket, and the bracket, it cost me $124 or something like that with PA sales tax of 6%.
My service adviser at the Stealership said this is a very common problem with these trucks.
#19
Well...
Did the repair, which took longer than expected, so the rust and the 20 degree temperature likely made that the case. Got everything back together, started the truck up, and now it is leaking from a new spot, further forward. Suspect we dinged a line putting things together. By this point it was 4:30 and dark, so we gave up for the day. Frack.
Major time consumer was the rust, and hence getting frozen bolts apart, etc. Would highly recommend a) 6 sided 1/2 inch drive sockets, b) a pair of channel lock pliers, c) PB blaster. Would also note that this really seems like a Toyota F-up. The bolts are crap metal, really like butter. One should assume that the bracket won't be the only problem, but that plumbing attached to it will be the major hurdle.
Now for the picks: I'm gonna post one link to see if it works, then hopefully the rest:
The parts:
Did the repair, which took longer than expected, so the rust and the 20 degree temperature likely made that the case. Got everything back together, started the truck up, and now it is leaking from a new spot, further forward. Suspect we dinged a line putting things together. By this point it was 4:30 and dark, so we gave up for the day. Frack.
Major time consumer was the rust, and hence getting frozen bolts apart, etc. Would highly recommend a) 6 sided 1/2 inch drive sockets, b) a pair of channel lock pliers, c) PB blaster. Would also note that this really seems like a Toyota F-up. The bolts are crap metal, really like butter. One should assume that the bracket won't be the only problem, but that plumbing attached to it will be the major hurdle.
Now for the picks: I'm gonna post one link to see if it works, then hopefully the rest:
The parts:
#20