ovrrdrive

This guy put it over on the fender...

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...RE-Rebuild.htm

94SRUNNER

I have a 94' 2WD and changed the fuel filter yesterday. I did it without removing any of the intake manifold, oil filter, or starter. It only took about 30-40mins. Just make sure you take of the gas cap to release the pressure in the fuel system. You only need a 12mm for the fuel filter mount bolts and 17mm for the banjo bolts.

Fahrenheit 451

The only bit I might add to the advice already given is to remove the front fuel line first, then the mounting bolts, then pull the filter forward and remove the rear line. When reinstalling, reverse the steps.
The rear line is the real PITA to the whole job, but the hassle of it can be avoided this way.
Relocating to the fender will work on a first gen body style, but when I tried the same thing on a second gen body style the fuel lines were no longer of sufficient length to reach without constricting the flow of fuel. I think if you were to try relocating you would have to replace one of the lines with a longer one.
I have it relocated on my '85 4 Runner and it is a dream. I can change the filter while standing up and only takes 5-10 minutes.

p.s. Make sure and keep track of the copper washers and make sure they are in place before getting everything put back together.

Targetnut

It's a PITA but there are worse (try a 83 Celica).

You can access the rear fitting by squeezing your hand between the firewall and manifold and use a wrench. the front fitting can be got with a long extension from the front just above the A/C compressor.

The bolts for the filter can be gotten to with extensions and swivels.

Now for the tip. Cut out the lower (slotted) hole on the bottom of the new filter. Then you can start the bolt before slipping the filter on it. This takes care of probably the most difficult part of the job, starting that lower bolt while holding the filter. Once you set the filter on the lower bolt you can use a long extension while peering in from above so that you can see what you are doing.

Once you have sucessfully completed this task you will have graduated to official shade tree mechanic second class

Good luck

Tylerars24

Has anyone put one of those clear body fuel filters in the fuel line before the stock fuel filter?

I think it would probably be easier to replace that than the stock one, plus you would be able to see what condition the gas is in.

just an idea


tyler

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Not sure those are rated for the ~40psi fuel pressure in the EFI system. I use one in my '85, between my aux. and mail fuel tank. Lets me see the filter condition and if fuel is flowing between the two tanks. But that is just a gravity feed line, no pressure at all.

shaeff

OR, go buy new ones and don't risk the old CRUSH washers leaking because they've already been compressed. the fuel system isn't one to be cob jobbed.

or you could heat them, as the old timers know.

edit: and no- do not ever use a clear plastic fuel filter on an EFI system. 40psi + cheap plastic filter housing = disaster waiting to happen.

-shaeff

highway

Targetnut..... just did my filter and I did the tip you suggested for cutting the slotted hole and it worked out great

highway

89whitetoyota

I relocated mine to the fender well, so I dont have to eff around with that job again! I did it the standard way when I dropped the new motor in, then realized I had the god damn lines on backwards, once I got it off, I moved it. I got so pissed in the process i drank a couple hundred Keystone Lights, and did a small custom move.

javadoody

or get a high pressure metal jacket filter and just toss it every so often. used them on big block chevys at one time or another. it would still be a question of too much restriction on these efi systems, i'll let one of you in the know respond to that.