corvey

OK, I've got a oil leak. It doesn't leak at all while running and it doesn't leak after about 5 minutes time passed. After the truck is turned off for about 30-60 seconds oil will slowly drip off down bellhousing and front IFS diff area. About 5 minutes time and a total of 20 drops then it stops! I can't tell where it's coming from. I undid the oil cap thinking it might be pressurized under the valve cover, same thing still... Does this kind of leak sound familar to anyone?

traben27

mine's kinda like that. I'm pretty sure its the oil cooler. you have the 3.0 right? i thought i took care of it once but I guess not.

n4ynu1010

Rear Main leak dripping out of bellhousing when you stop ??
Take it to the care wash unless you own a pressure washer and wash that puppy off so you can trace it back after it drys and you take a drive

corvey

Wasn't coming from oil cooler, it's coming from the passenger side valve cover. I guess the crank pressure is blowing it out. I installed new valve cover seals and used ultra high temp black gasket maker in all 4 points the FSM told me too, it all looked perfect. WHY IN THE HELL IS IT LEAKING THERE! ! Tried tightrning down farther, still leaking at the rear. behind that cam bearing is dry though.

DAMNIT TO HELL!!!!


So, do you think I should make a nice solid bead of gasket all the way around the valve cover (since apparently the new seals dribble while sucking donkey balls) and then place on top of the head nice and neat and squeeze just a little bit, and only just barely start the screws in and then wait about 15-30 minutes and tighten it a little bit more. Maybe a tad bit more the next day after it's nice and cured? Man, what a PITA to have to something all over again that was perfect the first time! I'm so pissed...

Four Runner

Redo the seals using the FIPG from toyota, use a decent amount, preping the heads and the covers using acetone or denetured(SP?) alchahol with a green scotchbrite to remove any left over sealant, and residue, following the "Four Points" suggestion. Let the FIPG set up for about 15mins before installing the covers, this'll make the seals a bit better.

n4ynu1010

Sad , darn gaskets

Targetnut

what about the plug in the back of the head? Also I've seen them leak from that at the edge of the rear cam bearing cap and look like the valve cover is leaking.

corvey

Plug? The freeze plug? I'm gonna tear into it tomorrow.

n4ynu1010

Sounds like a good idea , are the OEM gaskets Rubber/Urethane gaskets ?

n4ynu1010

Are you talking about a oil galley plug at the back of the head ?

corvey

I think it's just cheap rubber valve cover gaskets (they were new though). When I tear into it tomorrow, I want a permanent fix because I won't have time to be replacing valve cover gaskets every week or month.. sigh...

I'll check into that plug tomorrow. I thought all those plugs were freeze plugs, why in the hell would you need an oil plug in the head?

scrid

I think Targetnut is referring to the rear cam plugs on the head.
Mine leak from there and drip down the back of the block / transmission case and some gets foreward to the front drive axle making it look like it is leaking. These are on my list of future repairs but i'm gonna make damn sure I get it right when I have the time/ ambition.

n4ynu1010

Thanks for that Pic
I understand now what your saying , I am Old School GM so I havn't had one of these on a stand yet and thats a nice close up there .
What software you use to edit that photo ?

86tuning

Use a quick wipe of gasoline on a rag to help remove silicone sealant residue.

Use genuine gaskets, and replace the rear cam plug thingys.

I don't recomment gooping FIPG over everything. Just a tiny smear around the rear cam plugs, and in the corners of the v/c gasket where they contact the cam bearing caps.

corvey

It's dry on the cam bearing caps, I already stated that. It's just shtty valve cover gasket I guess.

corvey

Right on the edge of the head closest to the firewall right under ther valve cover you can see the fresh oil buildup.

n4ynu1010

If it weren't for that intake ........................ valve covers would be easy

scrid

Hey n4ynu1010, i'm still using Adobe photodeluxe business edition.

corvey

Hell after the head gasket work I did to it, taking all that stuff apart to get to the valve covers and putting that much back together will be easy. It's just the time to do all that AGAIN, and that pisses me off...

corvey

OK, this is a follow up on this post that I actually took care of last week. It was in fact the brand new valve cover gasket that was leaking.

My solution to fix this was to use a nice bead of high temp RTV gasket maker around the whole valve cover, then place the new valve cover gasket on top of that, then place valve cover on head, very lightly tighten the bolts down just enough squeeze the RTV down a little bit for a nice fit and seal. let set for 10-15 minutes, tighten some more but UNDER torque specs. Then wait an hour, and tighten to torque spec.

It pissed me off that they say the seals are suppose to work by themselves with no sealer, well that costed me a half a day in labor to redo it and fix it right... Sometime you just gotta just say F the book! I hope this info helps somebody else cure their leak the first time around!


NO DRIPS NO DROPS NO LEAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!