Front sway bar removal.
#1
Front sway bar removal.
'91 4Runner SR5 V6 (swapped 3.4) Auto 4x4.
I see quite a few people have removed the front sway bar saying this gives a better ride. The brackets on mine are broken and the bolts have sheared off so its just hanging there. Should I fix the brackets or just remove the whole thing and forget about it? Can it be removed without taking the front wheels off?
I see quite a few people have removed the front sway bar saying this gives a better ride. The brackets on mine are broken and the bolts have sheared off so its just hanging there. Should I fix the brackets or just remove the whole thing and forget about it? Can it be removed without taking the front wheels off?
#3
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Cornering will suffer (body roll) - but unless you like to take fast corners like I do you won't miss it IMO. Since yours is already "dangling in the breeze" you are essentially getting a swaybar-less ride now
There's always the quick disconnect mod as well...
There's always the quick disconnect mod as well...
#4
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i removed mine (broke bolts when working on my driveshaft etc..) and have noticed zero change in the ride or handling.
have to be certain that it's not required for vehicle inspection though.
have to be certain that it's not required for vehicle inspection though.
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You must not drive like I do I guess the urethane bushings also made mine more effective in high-speed cornering - but there was an absolute difference w/o it (I'm talking on-road). UK Runner won't notice any difference because his is essentially 100% useless in it's current state
#6
Yeah there is a lot of body roll but I really dont drive it hard. If I wanted to reconnect it, what are my options? The bolts are sheared right at the surface. I dont see any easy way of ever getting them out.
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#8
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I'm far from a broken blt expert! But "1990yota-pickup" recommended this stuff in another thread (gas tank) to loosen any rust:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...N=0&sst=subset
Then maybe an eazy-out or similar?
I'm in a similar boat with my front A-Arm mounts - a buddy of mine crossthreaded one of them and I really don't think I'll be able to get it out w/o snapping it (I'm surprised he ws able to tighten it all the way down!). I have no clue how to get at it with the boxed frame and all
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...N=0&sst=subset
Then maybe an eazy-out or similar?
I'm in a similar boat with my front A-Arm mounts - a buddy of mine crossthreaded one of them and I really don't think I'll be able to get it out w/o snapping it (I'm surprised he ws able to tighten it all the way down!). I have no clue how to get at it with the boxed frame and all
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RE Swimmerboy - You will have better "independence" of your front L/R if you remove it which is a no-bainer for crawling and rough un-even terrain IMO. For highway driving and on-road cornering - the sway bar makes a marked improvement in body roll (aka: Faster Corners )
You can make cheap quick-disconnects if you want - or simply try it with and without in all of your usual driving conditions and see which you prefer. I'm mainly a daily driver - so I prefer on-road cornering hands down...
You can make cheap quick-disconnects if you want - or simply try it with and without in all of your usual driving conditions and see which you prefer. I'm mainly a daily driver - so I prefer on-road cornering hands down...
#10
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RE Swimmerboy - You will have better "independence" of your front L/R if you remove it which is a no-bainer for crawling and rough un-even terrain IMO. For highway driving and on-road cornering - the sway bar makes a marked improvement in body roll (aka: Faster Corners )
You can make cheap quick-disconnects if you want - or simply try it with and without in all of your usual driving conditions and see which you prefer. I'm mainly a daily driver - so I prefer on-road cornering hands down...
You can make cheap quick-disconnects if you want - or simply try it with and without in all of your usual driving conditions and see which you prefer. I'm mainly a daily driver - so I prefer on-road cornering hands down...
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PS - If your bushings are worn consider replacing them as the swaybar's effect is greatly lessened with worn bushings...
PPS - If you disconnect BOTH end links you'll need to tie the swaybar up with wire so it doesn't flap around
PPS - If you disconnect BOTH end links you'll need to tie the swaybar up with wire so it doesn't flap around
Last edited by vital22re; 10-21-2010 at 03:05 PM.
#14
Well for now I'm going to pull it out until I can get the bolts out. I do very little off roading with it and what I do is mild enough that a sway bar fitted wont effect the trip. I'd like a little tighter handling. Who makes poly bushings for front and rear suspension?
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I haven't checked in close to 10 years, but I got my Urethane suspension bushings from NWOR. Coming from the worn stock rubber ones was night and day. The ride will be a bit bumpier since the rubber isn't there to cushion the ride as much, but the tightness and handling/steering respose is VERY nice IMNSHO. Just make sure you or your buddy doesn't crossthrerad the A-Arm bolts when you re-install everything like my buddy did to my truck :mad: (10 years later and I'm still pissed!)
I'd get an alignment afterwards, too
I'd get an alignment afterwards, too