HighLux

Here is my thread of my 87 going back together....all engnbldr parts. I got the offroad head and rv cam as well...but you can see all the parts in pics here...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...k-home-260142/

Killgore Trout

FWIW everything in my rebuilt engine is engnbldr, and i had todd at engnbldr do all the machine work as well, products were top notch, service/help is second to none, 22r purrs, cant even tell the truck is running from 5 feet away. I did my rebuild last year and the provided head gasket was awesome, not a pos at all. I snapped a ring installing and todd handed me a new one at no cost. If i could do it over i would buy the EB kit again no hesitation.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

OEM is Orginal Equipment Manufacture, the parts vendor that Toyota uses for all of their parts. In most cases you cant beat their quality and you will find their parts on some domestics as well.

Denso makes plugs and wires.
Niachi makes bearings.
Aisin makes clutches and hubs.

There are a hundered other vendors and I had a list of them somewhere that I would like to find. If you know the vendor, you can find the parts on websites for a better price then Toyota and parts stores.

I am not sure what OES is.

I live in Anderson about 30 miles south of Joplin, and I work in Joplin. Not many on YT from this area. Have you been to Buddys U-pull it in Springfield? Seems like they have the best selection of Toyotas in our area. There isn't much to chose from in Joplin salvage yards and they get hit hard when they come in. Buddys looks to have some great prices. I haven't got there yet but plan on going there in two weeks when I have the time off.

Missouri_Dad

No haven't been to Buddy's and was just told of a place north of Springfield a few days ago I would like to check out too. From all the reading I have done online and from past experience I think it would be best to go with all ENGNBLDR parts, I might order the OEM head gasket online too but I am not 100% it would be worth it yet. No one in my area will even touch my truck mechanically speaking, they are all Chevy & Ford guys. But I have found a guy calls himself Dr Yoda who has offered to help me do the repairs for a small fee which is going to be a huge and welcome help! I can't wait to get my truck back on the road again..........

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I know a guy in my area that is good on these. Jamesr84 is a member in your area and really liked his work if you are needing it up and runnig quick.

I work graveyard and my days off are Wednesday nite thru Friday nite which are some odd hours to make scheduling a little difficult. I have done several of these. It takes longer to do a headgasket/timing chain then it does to swap a motor. It isnt hard but is a slow process. You should get your head checked while it is off. Joplin 4 States Machine Shop charges $30 just to check it out. I dont go over $170 on machine work as a new head can be had for $250. Headgasket, Timing Chain, Oil pump, Water Pump, and Headbolts is what I only really get concerned with. I have rebuilt an entire motor for my 85 with all EB things and they are great. But it can be done for alot less as well.

If you are worried about getting in over your head on this top end rebuild and can work around my schedule, I could help you out. Allow a good day or so for any machine work that migh be needed and it takes a few hours to tear it down but alot longer to put one back togther. I allow a day or two on reassembly myself.

Missouri_Dad

Thank you! I appreciate the help, right now the guy I reffered to ealier Dr Yoda is offering to do the job for 450 or if I get the parts and help him do it(which I really want to do) he said we can work out a amount we both feel comfortable with, which sounded really good to me. I was thinking I buy the parts and offer him like 200? What type of machine work might I expect? I hadn't read anything about needing any done on a timing chain replacement?

P.S. I just bit the bullet and spent $221.90 at ENGNBLDR for the
4 Piece Front End Kit - Timing kit, Timing Cover, Oil & Water Pump $155.90
Top End Gasket Kit with Head Bolts $66.00
Totaled - $221.90

Still unsure about getting the OEM Head Gasket?

HighLux

I can personally vouch for terry's wrenching skills....and he is super nice and honest. Good dude. He has helped me before.

Missouri_Dad

If things go south with Dr Yoda(Randy) I will keep Terry in mind and in line as I can not do this alone. I am mechanicly inclined and am probably able to do it alone but I have never done anything this deep into the motor so far.
So with my parts ordered from ENGNBLDR now I am debating getting the OEM Head Gasket 1111535060 for $40 off ebay w/free shipping?

turkeykiller365

I had never pulled apart an engine when i did mine. Its easy. You can look up instructions online but its mostly
1) remove parts to be replaced
2) install new parts
3) reassemble engine.

its easy but its easier if you remove your front bumper, grille, radiator, etc befre you do it. its much easier. My first time delving into my engine and it look like a day (with cleaning everything real good)

Missouri_Dad

I went ahead and bought the OEM Head Gasket too for the $39.44 shipped.
Had a hard time explaining buying it to my wife but she eventually read you guys posts and it help smooth things over for me.
Now all I have to do is wait for the parts to come in!
Then Dr. Yoda is going to come down with a car dolly and we are towing it to his place north of Springfield to Willard to do the repairs. I don't have all the tools or space to do it at my house.
So far I've spent $261.34


I know I still have to buy:

Water Pump Studs $4
Ultra Grey/Gray Silicone $5
Carb Cleaner $5
5 Quarts Oil $15
Oil Filter $10
Antifreeze - Toyota Red $15
Gallon Distilled Water $1
Vaseline $3
Lapping Compound $5
Belts - No PS,Air, etc. $15
Radiator Hoses - Upper & Lower $30

Possibly Repair Sleeves for Crankshaft and Harmonic Balancer? $3-9
He has spare valves we are going to use to replace the bent ones.

So approximately $108+ more to go plus what I am paying him.

Anyone see anything I am leaving out/missing?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!!! I will be getting out of here later today. Plan on being in St.Louis hopefully early evening. Had to replace two tires on the 3rd gen as I ran over something. I am planning on driving Mistys runner to give it a good run. Havent had it on a long trip in a while.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The reason you should send the head to the shop is for several reasons. You cant always see cracks that can be in the head. Another is the head can get warped. If that is the case, they can "shave" the head which gets it level so that the head and block have a level fitting to each other.

If the ground wire on the back of the head to the fire wall has been disconnected, two different metals start having electrolis. The block is cast, the head is aluminum, and that causes the water ports to start eating each other up as I understand it.

Another water port issue is if antifreeze hasnt been changed is the water ports in the head corrode out. The machine shop can build them back up. I have had that done several times. I will see if I have a bad head that shows what I am talking about when it gets light out side.

You can take a metal straight edge and get an idea if the head is level, but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch and isnt easily seen.

I see you are further north and dont know Springfield or Willard Machine shops up there. I just use Joplins, the economy shut down alot of the smaller ones. The guy helping you will know where one is in his area and will have a valve spring compressor or where to rent one.

Usually the rebuild kits dont come with Injector Seal kits. You will need one for each injector about $4 each or I get mine at http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr and you get screens for about the same price as a parts store. Toyota says to lube the o rings with gasoline, dont forgt to do that when installing them into the fuel rail. I have used WD-40 as well. Just dont put them in dry as you have a chance of knicking them and having a fuel leak. I know from experince on that.

A few wire brushes come in handy for cleaning your sensors https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Here is a small example of the water jackets and corrosion I am talking about. Cleaning the sensors while having it apart is easily done. The Plenum will have alot of carbon in it. I remove the Throttle Body but do NOT mess with the Throttle Position Sensor, just leave it on the Throttle Body and clean around it.

The EGR will make a mess and probably not be working. It is easily cleaned but messyyy. Check that all ports are open and not clogged. If you want to block off the EGR, I can post a picture of how I do mine and it stops alot of the mess. While the head is off and waiting on machine shop is a good time to clean several things up. While you are doing the headgasket, I would change the fuel filter as well.

When removing your accessories, I remove " Luxuries first (ac and power steering) Necessities last (water pump and alternator)". When installing them I install the Necessities first, and make sure it is running with no leaks and such before installing Luxuries just in case there are any leaks and such. I have the Factory Service Manual and the Haynes. You probably dont have the FSM, but the Haynes does just great and is more easily obtainable. I rebuilt a motor using both manuals at the same time and nearly everything is the same in the manuals.

In my Tools,Tips, and Tricks below, I show marking the head bolts with a marker. That little tip will save you some time and trouble when installing and removing the headbolts. The manuals both say 62 foot pounds and later Toyota updated it to 65 or 68 foot pounds for the head bolts if I am correct on the numbers. Just to make you aware of it.

Missouri_Dad

I really did not plan on rebuilding the head, and I didn't buy the parts to do it either.....yet that is? I was hoping I just had to pull the head to change out what valves were bent, lap the spare used valves & clean up the ports and put it back on with the new head gasket and new head bolts. Should I be doing more? Like rebuilding the head? What are the pros and cons of blocking off your EGR? New head runs 250-350, machine shop work costs 100+ then parts another 100? And I have heard that if you redo the top end of a motor it can cause the lower to fail due to higher compression/pressure? It has been a very long night for me and I am not thinking on all 4 cylinders at the moment.. I will think about this new info but I do have to stop rebuilding somewhere otherwise I either am going to do a complete rebuild or just go for a crate motor hehe The pictures really helped shed some light on some aspects of the head comming off I really hadn't thought about. Thank you for those Terry! I am going to get some sleep now before my alarm clock goes off !!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I suggest just making sure the head is good. I have one checked and itwas just $30 and I was on my way, other times it was just a few dollars to get a few more things done. A new head can be had for $250 in worse case scenrio.

Blocking the EGR just keeps carbon out of the motor. Those that have stricter enviromental laws and have to pass emissions test have to have it operating. I have yet to see one that works in our area as they are plugged and not functioning. The benefit I see is just a cleaner running engine. If EGR is maintained like it should be, I hear in a way it helps the motor to actually run cooler, but most are unfamiliar with the EGR and it usually wont throw a code to let them know there is a problem with it.

I have probably done 10 top end rebuilds and I will say that one did blow the ring out of the piston a few months later. That motor had been sitting for 3 years and the rings were frozen to the piston and it was frozen to the cylinder walls as when I tore the motor down you could see the rust where the ring had frozen/rusted to the wall and caused it to fail in my opinion.

If I know my motor is good, I have reused my water and oil pump on a tight budget. Max I spent was $250 head,$60 for a gasket kit from my local machine shop and about $60 for a Timing Chain kit. I got less then that in my 88 runner that I am running to St. Louis in this weekend and is a 600 mile round trip. 3 years and 50k miles later it is still running great. It is losing some compression but it has 313,500 miles on the lower end of the motor and it was abused and neglected when I got it.

Steel guides are a better product, but I feel the plastic guides are just as good. Reason being is the chain has stretched or the tensioner has worn out and everything should be replaced anyways if a plastic one is borken, means the plastic has taken a beating. I am running both steel and plastic in my trucks so I am not really biased to either one.

You will see some say that if you do the head gasket that you might as well as do the bottom end as well. What they should be saying is if you do the headgasket you ought to spend another several hundred dollars doing the bottom end. I have only done 2 complete rebuilds on a 22re, I just do the top end unless the rings are just wore out. In my opinion it is cheaper to buy a motor instead of rebuilding it unless you just want to do it a little at a time. One reason I like projects over daily drivers. I have gotten 2 motors from http://www.unitedengine.com/ for $1100 if they didnt want a core and that was with shipping and tax. I know two others that have bought motors from them and were great as well.

HighLux

Terry just call me when you get in town, ill be here.

Missouri_Dad

Terry thanks for explaining it that way I understand and I will be checking out where to get this head checked while we have it out now! So what parts am I going to need to buy and replace on this head? The truck had no luxuries at all, no power anything and no A/C I kind of like it that way.
I saw you mention Injector Seal kits, is there a head rebuild kit of some sort.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Really not much to replace on a head unless something is bad and needs replacing. You will need to rent a valve spring compressor to replace the valve seals. Everything else will come with your gasket kit.

Cleaning is the time killer. Making sure no fluid is down in the head bolt holes. I blow them out with an air hose and use long Q-tips. Chase all of the bolts and threads making sure they thread in okay. The head and block surface are free of any oils from automotive or your oil from your hands and such.

I would suggest not separating the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe if it is not leaking. Hard to get it to seal up again from my experience.

Missouri_Dad

So I will need valve seals then, what about the gaskets for the intake and exhaust manifolds? will they come with the top end gasket kit from engnbldr? Also should I just order all new valves? Will do on the cleaning, thread chasing and not separating the exhaust manifold from the pipe. I have a tap and die set and a air compressor. I am starting to think I should try and do this myself just so I can make sure it is all done right and no short cuts are taken. But I am very nervous about getting the timing to line up since the chain has broke and I cranked it over while it was broke. I would have to get a lapping tool $8, spring compressor $20, Torque wrench ??, I have most mechanics tools minus cherry picker and stand, i do have jack and stands.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

I was curious and bored, see my end results for comparison.

What you were quoted:

Chain - 213
Top Gear - 55
Bottom Gear - 86
Tensioner - 122
Passenger Guide - 33
Drivers Guide - (told him I would buy elsewhere to get the steel one)
TC Cover - 358
TC Cover Gaskets - 20
Valve Cover Gasket - 24
Head Gasket - 65
Head Bolts - 10ea x 10 = 100
Water Pump w/gasket - 126
Oil Pump w/ gasket - 280

So for a total of $1482 !!!!!


OEM OSK Timing Kit - $68 (Including Shipping) (TC Gaskets, Passenger/Driver Guide Rails, Tensioner, Chain, Top/Bottom Gears)



EDIT: OEM Aisin Timing Cover - $157 Free Shipping



OEM Aisin Oil Pump w/gasket - $52 Free Shipping



OEM Aisin Water Pump w/gasket - $40 Free Shipping



EDIT: Toyota Top End Gasket Kit - $114 Plus Shipping

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsID=11-03

Head Bolts (Qty. 10) - $60 Plus Shipping

vhttp://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?model=TRUCK,PICKUP&year=1993&catal ogCode=671450&VAID=2019,2029&selectConditions=%281 0=USA;1=22RE;3=T1;5=MTM;7=RCB;8=W%29&subModel=JPP-4%20WHEEL%20DRIVE&originCountry=%2810=USA%29§ionID =&componentsID=11-04


Subtotal Cost: $491
Plus Toyotapartszone Estimate Shipping: $20
If you have no Tax for Amazon or Toyotapartszone (Cali): $0

TOTAL Estimated Cost using OEM/Toyota Parts: $511. $971 less than your dealer provided estimate. (What I would have paid (but less $30 because I would have used Altrom head bolts) because I'm an OEM/Toyota parts whore )

YOUR Estimated Cost $221.90 + $4 water pump studs + $40 Toyota head gasket: $266. $245 less than ALL OEM/Toyota parts.

Then you need to factor in the other stuff you listed to complete the job (ie. coolant, fipg, oil, etc....)

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Great job Grego!!! Your work wont go to waste as I am posting this into my Parts Page. I thought I was a shopper. You beat me on that, lol. I used the Aisin Lookup Tool in my link below and if you take the part number and paste it into google, Amazon beat out alot of other part suppliers.

Missouri Dad.. You being new to YT you probably dont know of Grego92 work and parts he uses. They are top notch. I have bought some off of him in the past and have always been quite impressed with what he does and his craftmanship. A great guy.

I come from the world of domestic V8s and the 22re was my first injection motor to work on. I was concerned as well on the first time. It is a very easy motor to work on think you will find why there is such a following on them. You can do the work in the engine bay but your back will thank you if you put it on an engine stand. If it is a 2 wheel drive, I just pull the tranny with it. If it is a 4 wheel drive, I just pull the motor.

Most likely the chain bound up and just did damage to the cover and not really anything else. Just have to wait and see what it looks like when you get the cover off. I wouldnt be concerned though at this time. A new timing kit will change all of that anyways. Lining it up is really easy on these. There are some tips that can be passed along when you get to that point. I take the rounded end of a screw driver handle to help lift it onto the camsprocket and back the crankshaft back just a smidgen to get it on. There is a video to put in the disributor and I have had the timing dead on before just using the video. I would feel more comfortable doing it myself then having it done as several mechanics just slap it back together. I feel the secret is just in cleaning and assembling. There have been several people with way less mechanical skills then you and got these motors running.

I personally use the starter to get the Crankshaft bolt off. It is on there tight!!! Some dont like to do that but I and a friend of mine do it that way all of the time. I had 2 different motors where an impact wrench and a 3/8th air hose wouldnt budge it. I had to take it to a mechanic that had the 1/2 air hose. I suggest doing that before doing anything to the motor. Put a six sided 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt and put the breaker bar on the bottom side of the passenger frame snugly and bump the starter. You can find it on YT as well, several do it that way but some say other wise.

Thanks Grego92...I added to my parts page>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51652896