emergency brake light never goes off??
#21
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Yeah sorry for yelling, I guess it is the same idiot light for everything. But he says it fluctuates with the e-brake handle so I'd have a look at that switch.
#22
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Originally Posted by blkntan
check the brake fluid.
YES, THE E-BRAKE LITE WILL STAY ON WHEN THE FLUID IS LOW
if the lite gets brighter when the e-brake is on, then the e-brake switch is working fine.
YES, THE E-BRAKE LITE WILL STAY ON WHEN THE FLUID IS LOW
if the lite gets brighter when the e-brake is on, then the e-brake switch is working fine.
#24
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Originally Posted by 05prerunner
it lights up fine when engaged but when i release the e brake it doesnt go off, just dims down. when i get home tonight ill go over everything and hopefully ill figure it out. ive gotta say you guys are very helpful, hard to find a board like this
It sounds like more of a brake fluid/master cylinder problem.
#25
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mine '87 pu has the a similar problem, the light never goes out. found out the tab on the e-break lever is worn in such a way that you must release the lever by pulling and turning like normal, then rotate the handle to EXCATLY 4o'clock, then when it is 90% in rotate to EXACTLY 2o'clock... the system works, the lever is funky... good luck
Last edited by Jonnym; 05-23-2006 at 05:49 PM.
#26
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ok guys i checked the e brake handle and any switches i could get to this morning with no luck. brake fluid was way over minimum but about 1/8" below maximum, still no luck after adding fluid to the max. unplugged wire going to master cylinder and light is now OFF, thank you!!! i guess its the sensor or sending unit in there which somebody has mentioned but for now im leaving it unplugged since i check my fluids regularly. thanks a bunch for all your help!!
#27
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Wow
It is amazing to me that everyone gives you all these answers without knowing what they are talking about. It Couldn'T be the e-brake switch because you said the light would become brighter and more dim, which indicates that switch is working properly. I have disconnected this sensor for customers on at least three trucks. I am glad you got it work, I am just sad to see so many people be like "yup, its that piece, thats what went bad on my rig so it would have to be the same for you!!!"
To forum readers ask questions and provide information, leave the answers to the topic starter.
To forum readers ask questions and provide information, leave the answers to the topic starter.
#28
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Haha Rory, least you didn't get chastised for giving that advice even though I know it was the sensor since I've had to deal with it!
Now to scour the junk yards for that bloody lid/sensor.
JJ (Fellow Austinite!)
Now to scour the junk yards for that bloody lid/sensor.
JJ (Fellow Austinite!)
#29
Contributing Member
So if the problem is the sensor in the reservoir cap why would the light fluctuate with moving the e-brake handle?
Tex, and all the others that I may have "chastised" I do apologize as you guys were appearantly on the right track.
Tex, and all the others that I may have "chastised" I do apologize as you guys were appearantly on the right track.
#31
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Originally Posted by Rory
It is amazing to me that everyone gives you all these answers without knowing what they are talking about. It Couldn'T be the e-brake switch because you said the light would become brighter and more dim, which indicates that switch is working properly. .
#32
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Oh just giving grief, no insult taken.
It is just a short in the sensor. I find that depending on the day sometimes it won't come on at all. Sometimes it is medium bright all the time. It is ALWAYS a different (lesser) brightness than the full light which comes on as a result of the E-brake switch.
You can have someone play with that wire and cap while you monitor the light in the truck (foot on the brake of course and e-brake off) and see it glow then dim then glow again. We've tried to fix it manually, but just can't get in there without tearing up the lid and not a huge problem right now.
I agree that the disconnect is not a fix. It worries me as Toyota engineers designed that light to be a warning of low fluid level. (I figure the light brightness is inversely proportional to the amount of fluid in the reservoir, ie if it were truly empty it would glow bright.) I've checked the rest of the brake system and all is well so I did just disconnect the sensor as I look for a new cap. Hopefully no one from Oklahoma will be coming down and cutting my brakes! ; )
Just one of the many little things I love about my 4 runner. Poor Corey, what did he give up when he got the new perfect FJ?
JJ
It is just a short in the sensor. I find that depending on the day sometimes it won't come on at all. Sometimes it is medium bright all the time. It is ALWAYS a different (lesser) brightness than the full light which comes on as a result of the E-brake switch.
You can have someone play with that wire and cap while you monitor the light in the truck (foot on the brake of course and e-brake off) and see it glow then dim then glow again. We've tried to fix it manually, but just can't get in there without tearing up the lid and not a huge problem right now.
I agree that the disconnect is not a fix. It worries me as Toyota engineers designed that light to be a warning of low fluid level. (I figure the light brightness is inversely proportional to the amount of fluid in the reservoir, ie if it were truly empty it would glow bright.) I've checked the rest of the brake system and all is well so I did just disconnect the sensor as I look for a new cap. Hopefully no one from Oklahoma will be coming down and cutting my brakes! ; )
Just one of the many little things I love about my 4 runner. Poor Corey, what did he give up when he got the new perfect FJ?
JJ
#33
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by TexJJ
Oh just giving grief, no insult taken.
It is just a short in the sensor. I find that depending on the day sometimes it won't come on at all. Sometimes it is medium bright all the time. It is ALWAYS a different (lesser) brightness than the full light which comes on as a result of the E-brake switch.
You can have someone play with that wire and cap while you monitor the light in the truck (foot on the brake of course and e-brake off) and see it glow then dim then glow again. We've tried to fix it manually, but just can't get in there without tearing up the lid and not a huge problem right now.
I agree that the disconnect is not a fix. It worries me as Toyota engineers designed that light to be a warning of low fluid level. (I figure the light brightness is inversely proportional to the amount of fluid in the reservoir, ie if it were truly empty it would glow bright.) I've checked the rest of the brake system and all is well so I did just disconnect the sensor as I look for a new cap. Hopefully no one from Oklahoma will be coming down and cutting my brakes! ; )
Just one of the many little things I love about my 4 runner. Poor Corey, what did he give up when he got the new perfect FJ?
JJ
It is just a short in the sensor. I find that depending on the day sometimes it won't come on at all. Sometimes it is medium bright all the time. It is ALWAYS a different (lesser) brightness than the full light which comes on as a result of the E-brake switch.
You can have someone play with that wire and cap while you monitor the light in the truck (foot on the brake of course and e-brake off) and see it glow then dim then glow again. We've tried to fix it manually, but just can't get in there without tearing up the lid and not a huge problem right now.
I agree that the disconnect is not a fix. It worries me as Toyota engineers designed that light to be a warning of low fluid level. (I figure the light brightness is inversely proportional to the amount of fluid in the reservoir, ie if it were truly empty it would glow bright.) I've checked the rest of the brake system and all is well so I did just disconnect the sensor as I look for a new cap. Hopefully no one from Oklahoma will be coming down and cutting my brakes! ; )
Just one of the many little things I love about my 4 runner. Poor Corey, what did he give up when he got the new perfect FJ?
JJ
#34
Moving the e-brake handle 'did' give some relief ,, that's why I replaced the e-brake switch on the firewall. That's what made me think it was the switch. However, replacing the switch didn't solve the problem. ($35 at the dealer) Disconnecting the reservoir float did. Dunno why moving the handle made any difference, in the beginning.
Mike in AR
Mike in AR
#35
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
So if the problem is the sensor in the reservoir cap why would the light fluctuate with moving the e-brake handle?
#36
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Originally Posted by midiwall
The switch on the eBrake is wired to the light in parallel with the sensor (and other stuff). So closing the circuit on the switch provides a full +12 to the lamp which gives it full brightness. Opening the switch leaves only the sensor driving it, which will give a varying voltage (versus full ON/OFF) if it's flaking out.
#37
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Originally Posted by midiwall
The switch on the eBrake is wired to the light in parallel with the sensor (and other stuff). So closing the circuit on the switch provides a full +12 to the lamp which gives it full brightness. Opening the switch leaves only the sensor driving it, which will give a varying voltage (versus full ON/OFF) if it's flaking out.
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Rory, we are just throwing out possiblities trying to help. Must of the real mechanics like yourself are too busy working to provide everyone the real professional answers for free.
Yeah well you might be suprised at what little it can take to be titled a "professional". I have a bunch of ASEs but that just means I test well. Also, the whole reason I signed up for this forum was to find answers myself. As a mechanic time is REALLY money, so when the reference materials available aren't any help (more often than I would think), I get on the internet and search for stuff just like everybody else. Anything that can help me diagnose and fix a car faster is a blessing. As a technician (my modern title ala custodial engineer) I value the knowledge and experience of others, professional or not.
I just didn't like asking on this forum if anyone knows the trick to getting the tranny out of the 2wd reg cab 4cyl, how to snake it around the crossmember. And then the first reply is "oh, you take that crossmember out". It is welded to the frame, I would have to torch it out.
Edit>> Upon reading this it occured to me that I would have to just be patient and helpful and not flame people for being what I consider ignorant just because they didn't choose to be mechanics...
Last edited by Rory; 05-26-2006 at 01:12 AM. Reason: haha I am a jackass.
#38
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Rory
Yeah thats what I was going for.
Yeah well you might be suprised at what little it can take to be titled a "professional". I have a bunch of ASEs but that just means I test well. Also, the whole reason I signed up for this forum was to find answers myself. As a mechanic time is REALLY money, so when the reference materials available aren't any help (more often than I would think), I get on the internet and search for stuff just like everybody else. Anything that can help me diagnose and fix a car faster is a blessing. As a technician (my modern title ala custodial engineer) I value the knowledge and experience of others, professional or not.
I just didn't like asking on this forum if anyone knows the trick to getting the tranny out of the 2wd reg cab 4cyl, how to snake it around the crossmember. And then the first reply is "oh, you take that crossmember out". It is welded to the frame, I would have to torch it out.
Edit>> Upon reading this it occured to me that I would have to just be patient and helpful and not flame people for being what I consider ignorant just because they didn't choose to be mechanics...
Yeah well you might be suprised at what little it can take to be titled a "professional". I have a bunch of ASEs but that just means I test well. Also, the whole reason I signed up for this forum was to find answers myself. As a mechanic time is REALLY money, so when the reference materials available aren't any help (more often than I would think), I get on the internet and search for stuff just like everybody else. Anything that can help me diagnose and fix a car faster is a blessing. As a technician (my modern title ala custodial engineer) I value the knowledge and experience of others, professional or not.
I just didn't like asking on this forum if anyone knows the trick to getting the tranny out of the 2wd reg cab 4cyl, how to snake it around the crossmember. And then the first reply is "oh, you take that crossmember out". It is welded to the frame, I would have to torch it out.
Edit>> Upon reading this it occured to me that I would have to just be patient and helpful and not flame people for being what I consider ignorant just because they didn't choose to be mechanics...
#39
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I had a similiary problem on my 92' pickup. It still does it especially when the weather gets colder. All I do is push on the brake handle and wiggle it a little and it goes right off. Try that. Hope it helps. Not a permanent fix but at least it will make it go off.
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