Dual T-case install?
#21
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Location: M/V Midland & Biwabik MN
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#22
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This mod keeps getting more and more expensive.
On that note how do I measure for drive line changes? Can I just add the 6 1/2 inches to the front shaft and subtract that much from the rear?
On that note how do I measure for drive line changes? Can I just add the 6 1/2 inches to the front shaft and subtract that much from the rear?
#23
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They all do.
You can save some pennies building a square front DS. I had one, worked okay but pretty ghetto. Very strong though.
You are on the right track, but honestly it would be best to have the dual assembly at least built if not actually installed before you start measuring for new driveshafts.
By the way, have we established whether you have a V6 or a 4CYL... because that will change everything...
You can save some pennies building a square front DS. I had one, worked okay but pretty ghetto. Very strong though.
By the way, have we established whether you have a V6 or a 4CYL... because that will change everything...
#24
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how did you build that front shaft???? and would it be ok to use it in the rear if its that strong? just asking cause i have 3 trasfercases out back and plaing on using all three and need some strong stuff
#25
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my main beef with square shafts (besides the god-awful racket and inability to balance) is the fact they when they hit a rock ...they dont slide over it like a round tube...they push the shaft over the rock or break it This put a butt load of stress on the t-case bearings and output shaft and seals creating leaks and/or other problems
#27
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What abut it?
In double low, I never get above about 1000 to 1500 RPM, so I'd imagine that my torque even multiplied as it is, is not strong enough to rip out my mounts.
I have a gutless, torqueless motor. I'm not worried about any of my driveline mounts.
In double low, I never get above about 1000 to 1500 RPM, so I'd imagine that my torque even multiplied as it is, is not strong enough to rip out my mounts.
I have a gutless, torqueless motor. I'm not worried about any of my driveline mounts.
#28
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What abut it?
In double low, I never get above about 1000 to 1500 RPM, so I'd imagine that my torque even multiplied as it is, is not strong enough to rip out my mounts.
I have a gutless, torqueless motor. I'm not worried about any of my driveline mounts.
In double low, I never get above about 1000 to 1500 RPM, so I'd imagine that my torque even multiplied as it is, is not strong enough to rip out my mounts.
I have a gutless, torqueless motor. I'm not worried about any of my driveline mounts.
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/MotorMount.shtml
and it's not the engine torque that's the problem, it's the torque of the driveline, multiplied by the low gear ratios.
think about it- 95 lbs torque, multiplied by a 4:1 ratio= 380 lbs. some of that torque is absorbed by the engine/trans mounts, the rest goes to your tires. if the tires bind, the torque has to be absorbed by the mounts. weak mounts = broke mounts.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-26-2008 at 10:59 AM.
#29
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Just search "square shaft" and you'll get a lot of info. It's basically two pieces of trailer hitch stock mated to Toyota ends.
The square shaft is strong in regards to impacts. I suppose it would be stronger under torque load as well, but generally stock Toyota joints are used so a square shaft has similar weaknesses to a "stock" round shaft.
That is a very true statement. I never could get mine to be just right. Your speed is limited and noise is high. I have heard that some have better luck however. It's the cost (under $50) for a burly front DS with over 12" of slip that attracts most to the idea.
One could probably add some tube to round it off if they were so inclined. I personally view the square DS as a temporary cost effective solution to dual cases or after a SAS. Once you save up some more funds, a conventional well made shaft is really the only way to go.
My main beef with square shafts (besides the god-awful racket and inability to balance) is the fact they when they hit a rock ...they dont slide over it like a round tube...they push the shaft over the rock or break it This put a butt load of stress on the t-case bearings and output shaft and seals creating leaks and/or other problems
#30
Contributing Member
I would be careful here. I have seen several trans/tcase housing split because everything wasnt allowed to flex at the same rate, ie...different material used for motor mounts and tcase mounts or solid motor mounts and factory style tcase mounts(or chained down motors). This phenomenon is exaggerated as the distance between the mounts is greater and the gear ratio is lowered. It is also worth mentioning that those flexy mounts help absorb driveline shock.
just my .02
just my .02
On the motor end, the chains do have enough slack that the rubber still gets stretched some before the chain takes over.
#31
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#33
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#34
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Don't forget pinion rotation, depending on rear lift and over all angle of driveshaft.
I rotated mine before I tried it without, mines a DD and wanted to deal with the rear driveshaft once. Really wasn't as bigga PITA as I first thought it would be. Reenforce the aftermarket spring perches like Toyota does if you go that route
Dual cases was the best mod I've done yet. In hind site I would've been better off with dual stocks than 4.70 to begin with.
If your going to lift your truck do it before installing the duals, so you deal with the length/angle think once. Plan out you build, so to speak you'll save cash in the long run.
I rotated mine before I tried it without, mines a DD and wanted to deal with the rear driveshaft once. Really wasn't as bigga PITA as I first thought it would be. Reenforce the aftermarket spring perches like Toyota does if you go that route
Dual cases was the best mod I've done yet. In hind site I would've been better off with dual stocks than 4.70 to begin with.
If your going to lift your truck do it before installing the duals, so you deal with the length/angle think once. Plan out you build, so to speak you'll save cash in the long run.
#35
Contributing Member
4Crawler has ya' covered:
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/MotorMount.shtml
and it's not the engine torque that's the problem, it's the torque of the driveline, multiplied by the low gear ratios.
think about it- 95 lbs torque, multiplied by a 4:1 ratio= 380 lbs. some of that torque is absorbed by the engine/trans mounts, the rest goes to your tires. if the tires bind, the torque has to be absorbed by the mounts. weak mounts = broke mounts.
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/MotorMount.shtml
and it's not the engine torque that's the problem, it's the torque of the driveline, multiplied by the low gear ratios.
think about it- 95 lbs torque, multiplied by a 4:1 ratio= 380 lbs. some of that torque is absorbed by the engine/trans mounts, the rest goes to your tires. if the tires bind, the torque has to be absorbed by the mounts. weak mounts = broke mounts.
I understand very well how torque works, thanks.
The original question was "have any of you guys with duals ever broken an engine mount".
I answered no.
I also said I'm not worried about it.
I am still not.
I do think that it is a valid concern. I only answered in the context of my own truck and my own experience.
Last edited by AxleIke; 08-26-2008 at 01:12 PM.
#36
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I never broke one either, but had the motor out anyway and Murphy is not my friend.
My Sky crossmember uses 2 TC mounts so maybe the motor mount thing was overkill????
Sky crossmember with dual mounts is another story, every mod to solve a problem is the potential for another problem. Good times.
My Sky crossmember uses 2 TC mounts so maybe the motor mount thing was overkill????
Sky crossmember with dual mounts is another story, every mod to solve a problem is the potential for another problem. Good times.
#37
Contributing Member
I thought I had broken a mount, but checked and they were OK. I think the beefy crossmember and two tranny mounts helps A LOT.
I do really need to chain down the motor mounts though ... I hear it REALLY sucks to break one.
I do really need to chain down the motor mounts though ... I hear it REALLY sucks to break one.
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