Do I need an oil pump?
#21
Registered User
I'm not sure that I would call those pressure "good".
Maybe if that is cold pressure, but certainly not hot operating
temperature pressures ....
Fred
Last edited by FredTJ; 07-03-2009 at 12:49 PM.
#24
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The anti drainback valve was my first guess, but I have changed the filter a few times and now I have a genuine Toyota filter. Can anyone think of a reason that the all the anti-drainback valves in the filters are not working? Could something like over-tightening the filters be causing the valves to not seal, maybe by warping the filter? I just remembered that this problem started happening right after an oil & filter change. The oil & filter has been changed since, but there might be something causing the anti-drainback valves to not work. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
I changed the gasket on the pickup tube when I cleaned it, so I would assume it is ok, although there is a chance a bolt came loose or something.
FredTJ: What are good pressures suppose to be?
I changed the gasket on the pickup tube when I cleaned it, so I would assume it is ok, although there is a chance a bolt came loose or something.
FredTJ: What are good pressures suppose to be?
Last edited by the_supernerd; 07-03-2009 at 01:34 PM.
#26
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Hot idle oil pressure should be ~10 PSI or higher. Peak oil pressure should not exceed ~70 PSI. Anywhere in between those two is fine. Below 10 is a sign that the oil pump or bearings may be worn and above 70 is a sign the pressure relief valve isn't working properly. Seeing +50 PSI on a cold start isn't anything to worry about nor is 25 PSI with a warm start. My VW Scirocco would peak about 60 PSI on a cold start but that was with 20w50 oil and stayed together for over 300K miles, til I wrecked it.
Since you're hearing knocking on start up and it's a relatively new (even if cheaper) oil pump, I'd lean at the rod bearings may be getting old. Hard to check without pulling the oil pan though. Maybe try a heavier weight oil, maybe 10w40 or 15w40 and see if it continues. I run 20w50 in my 88 22re and 15w40 in my 91 22re. I live in southern California where it rarely gets below 32F and is usually above 70F. 20w50 can be used down to freezing without causing issue. If I run 10w30 or 10w40 in my 88, it gets rod knock but does not with 15w or 20w oil.
Since you're hearing knocking on start up and it's a relatively new (even if cheaper) oil pump, I'd lean at the rod bearings may be getting old. Hard to check without pulling the oil pan though. Maybe try a heavier weight oil, maybe 10w40 or 15w40 and see if it continues. I run 20w50 in my 88 22re and 15w40 in my 91 22re. I live in southern California where it rarely gets below 32F and is usually above 70F. 20w50 can be used down to freezing without causing issue. If I run 10w30 or 10w40 in my 88, it gets rod knock but does not with 15w or 20w oil.
#27
Registered User
The Golden Rule for any gas engine that you are likely to own is (once the oil is up to operating temperature, which is 100*C {212*F}, and takes longer to get there than the engine coolant does ) is 10 psi / 1000 rpm.
So, at idle you should be no more than 10 psi.
Fred
#28
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Thread Starter
If the rod bearings were worn, wouldn't the oil pressure be low all the time, not just at start up? I will do as you suggested and try thicker oil on the next oil change. If nothing else, the thicker oil should at least help the pressure build quicker.
#29
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FredTJ: The entire time I've had the truck the oil pressure stuck around the middle of the gauge, a bit below the second line. I figured that was normal. Now it sits around the first line, maybe a bit past it.
I don't have a gauge with actual numbers on it, just the stock SR5 gauge cluster.
I don't have a gauge with actual numbers on it, just the stock SR5 gauge cluster.
#30
Registered User
[QUOTE=NicCantDecide;51175844I don't have a gauge with actual numbers on it, just the stock SR5 gauge cluster.[/QUOTE]
Then you can't even be sure there is a problem. The stock gage is little more than a glorified idiot light. Get an inexpensive mechanical gage from the parts store and see what the actual pressure is.
Then you can't even be sure there is a problem. The stock gage is little more than a glorified idiot light. Get an inexpensive mechanical gage from the parts store and see what the actual pressure is.
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