I have an '88 pickup with a 22R. It seems to take longer than it should to build oil pressure when it is started. It happens cold, but it is worse when warmed up. I have installed an oil pressure gauge, and the pressure seems to be fine once it is built up. I installed a new oil pump about 4k ago when I did the timing chain, but it was a discount brand. I was using a Fram oil filter, but I switched to genuine Toyota and it still does the same thing. I have changed the oil since, and the problem did not change. I am using Castrol 10w-30, which I have always used. I also cleaned the pickup screen and the sludge out of the oil pan when I did the timing chain. Could the discount oil pump be going out? Wouldn't it always have bad oil pressure if that was the case?

 

I noticed my oil pressure drop over a 1500 mile trip I did and I thought it was just low oil, but my oil is full. I'm having trouble building oil pressure also, usually sticks at the first line on the oil pressure gauge.

I have a 3VZ-E but I'd probably attribute it to an oil pump going out. I'm going to change my oil tomorrow and see if that helps.

If anyone else has some input that can help either of us that would be awesome.

 

hahaha..when i seen this thread title..i was ooooohhh my jeezus..here we go again another 22re oil cap removed runs funny thread..LMAO..

no idea on your problem bud..i gots a 22r and it shoots right up to 50-75psi at idle..of course its a FRESH rebuild (less than 50miles)

 

Define longer than it should?

 

It takes a few seconds for pressure to build. I have never timed it, but I can sometimes rev it two or three times before the pressure builds. It is long enough for the engine to start knocking a little, which I know is bad for it. In my 4x4 and most other vehicles I have been in, the light usually goes out as soon as the engine is started.

Once the pressure is up, it seems to be good. Hot idle is about 25 PSI, cold idle is about 50, fast idle is usually maxed out at 75.

 

rev it two-three times? what does that mean?
pushing the gas pedal down?

 

Man, I'd almost be willing to change the oil pump to a "good" one. It's soooo easy to change.

Ah, well, another thing you could try (I may get flammed for this too) is drain out some of your oil and put in some Lucas Oil Stabilzer. You'll have to read on the bottle what the ratio per quanity of oil your putting in is. I use to run this in my motor but it does foam up and I stopped using it. The thing with Lucas is that its crazy thick, like molases. So, on initial start it climbs the gears WAY faster than plain oil does. I guess if you did the Lucas thing and that DIDN'T help, I'd be changing the oil pump because to me it's not pullin oil like it should. I would think that you shouldn't have to rev your motor to get oil pressure!!!! Sounds like bearing washout in the works to me!!!

 

did i hear you right saying when u did ur t cahin u cleaned the sludge out of your pu screen. man ouchy. would highly doubt that your oil pump is your issue since you stated that the oil pressure light goes out right at startup. i believe its time to drop the pan and change the rod and main bearings.. have fun make friends

 

HUH? Do I need to watch Dances With Wolves to get a translation?

 

It means that I start it, then give it a little gas to rev the motor. Sometimes two or three pumps of the pedal. I do not rev it high, maybe just 2000 RPMs with each pump of the pedal.

 

abe stop!! I peed when I read that!!!!

 

If I remember right, there was not much sludge on the pickup screen. There were some chunks of timing chain guide and a few pieces of metal that I believe were from the timing chain cover. There was some sludge in the bottom of the pan. The oil light does not go out at startup. It takes a few seconds to go out, I installed a gauge, and it does the same as the light.

This truck has 264k on it, so worn parts are definitely a possibility. I know the valve train is a little worn, but I was thinking the lower end is still ok.

 

So you get 2000 rpm's with each pump of the pedal... therefore you hit 6000 rpm?



Relax, I get what you meant- you rev to 2000 or so each time you depress the pedal. Do you realize that doing that will affect the choke operation? You should only pump the pedal once before starting (if cold) then crank and let it idle without pumping again.

Maybe you should relate the oil pressure to the time it takes to get pressure after starting the engine and letting it idle. And take in to consideration any air left in the oil pressure line since it will delay readings to the gauge... you're using one of those mechanical gauges with the polypropylene tubing, right?

 

Try the Lucas and see what happens.

 

That's what the p'up screen is for.

 

I usually only rev it after starting when it is already warmed up. The only reason I do that is because it builds oil pressure quicker. When it is cold, the pressure builds a lot quicker, what I would consider normal. Probably due to thicker oil and fast idle.

If I do not rev it, the oil pressure probably takes about 5 or 6 seconds to build if the engine is warm and seems to only go to about 15 pounds until I give it a little gas.

The oil light, polypropelene tubing gauge, and my electrical gauge, which is currently installed, all do the same thing. I can hear the engine knock a little before the pressure builds, so I doubt it is just the gauge reading. The oil light sometimes flickers a few times before it goes out, if that helps any.

 

I was also thinking about adding something like Lucas, but I am a little nervous about adding it after reading this:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

 

Yup and that's why I don't use it, but like I said for a check of the pump you'd probably be ok.

 

And you think that "the first line on the oil pressure gauge" is too low ???
Why ?
What do you think it should be and why ?




Fred

 

You think and 50-75 psi at idle is fine ?????
I hope, at least, that is the cold pressure........



Fred