904_runner

Did you ever make sure the hubs were working correctly?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Have know idea who strap22 is, if it was all off his recommendation maybe he'll reimburse you for it. Like the old saying goes "the proof is in the pudding." An old timer told me once "watch out people'll tell you anything."

fisherxo

as far as i know they work. They were brand new when installed. I just went out there and was able to move the cv while the hub was unlocked and when i locked the hub the cv doesn't move. Thats what its supposed to do right?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Yep. thats what they do.

904_runner

That correct.

Im somewhat stumpted why the boot would be ripping without being in 4wd.

fisherxo

strapp22 is a member on here who works for toyota of dallas and advertises Old man emu suspension kits. Popular member from what i can tell and use to have the same set up on a 2nd gen 4runner.

OutlawMike

Do you know how much the T-bars are cranked? How much lift is in the back? You do not want to go much past 1/2" of additional T-bar crank, for a total lift of 2" in the front.

Like is pointed out above, you can limit droop by changing the bump stop height or you can put in a 1" diff drop kit, that will decrease your CV angle.

Did anyone monkey with the steering hard stops? Maybe when you combine droop with a tight turning radius that rips the boot? Not sure why that would only happen on one side, they should respond the same way, as the CV's are the same length.

Downey sells an aftermarket boot that is supposed to handle more angle, 22 degrees operating versus 18 degrees operating for the stock boots. The axles you keep changing out are perfectly good, it is just the boot that is bad.

Mike

scuba

Lets try this, Can we get a pic of the front of your truck, mainly the suspension, the tbars could be cranked giving too big of an angle. So, Take a pic of the whole front suspension.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Ok, it works just fine. The busted cv's are figment of our imaginations.

fisherxo

pics of the front

904_runner

Yea that is a pretty intense angle.

is the front a lot taller than the back?
I would relax those Torsion bars a bit

when mine was lifted (different style lift)

My lower control arms were just about level with teh crossmember

iamsuperbleeder

I bet it rides like a cadillac

yeah bro, that looks like the t-bars are MAXED

it's not unheard of to need to shim the droop bump stops with bj-spacers to keep the CV's from binding btw. But to me, it looks like just the boot is tearing and leaking, and on top of that it sounds like the shop is trying to rape your wallet by saying you need a whole new shaft...

honestly, IMO, the only way to get the result pictured (the leakage all the way around the boot like that), that shaft IS turning while you're driving... could be a simply hub issue that's stcking, or could even be a t-case issue and it's stuck in 4wd. I had a hub issue not too long ago:

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNxsR-1uoxg[/YOUTUBE]

mine were just installed incorrectly by whoever worked on it before me

easiest dianosis, jack the front tires up off the ground (both of them), then after securing it up on jack stands, crawl underneith and turn the fron drive shaft by hand.

A) if it will not turn and your t-case shifter is in 2wd, you have a t-case issue
B) if it turns, you should see the two frony shafts turning as well
C) if either one of the tires too with the shaft, then guess what, you have a hub issue (since you have manuals; this doesn't apply to ADD or autos)

could also do as I did, and jack up one side at a time and turn the wheel, but by reading your past posts, it sounds like you already did that

scuba

Yea, So you have 2 options, Keep it the same height with the tbars and do a 4crawler 1" diff drop, or lower the torsion bars some. If you dont know how, take it to an alignment shop and have them do it and then align it at the same time.

slosurfer

You may be getting too much droop and have to shim your bumpstop up a tad on that side. I had to do that to mine, driverside needed to be shimmed 1/4" but passenger side was fine.

Could have been due to the bumpstop being bent or the bumpstop rubber being softer on that side. Wasn't sure, just knew that I had to shim it. They should have found that out when they installed the BJ spacers as that is the last step in the instructions.

Messing with the tbars won't do much as you will still have the same amount of travel since the bumpstops haven't been touched.

fisherxo

Would i get any benefit from getting new and longer torsion bars? im confused about the droop in the bumpstop, what does that mean? Is a differential drop costly?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

fisherxo

ive googled so much. nothing gives me the answers like this forum has.

slosurfer

As for the droop, when your suspension cycles downward, what stops it from continueing downward is your droop bumpstop. This is located just beneath your UCA. With BJ spacers you gain suspension travel and it pretty much maxes out what your cv axles will handle without pinching the boot and ripping it. So sometimes (whether it's your bumpstop worn a little or extra squishy, or it's mount is slightly bent, etc...) you need to shim that bumpstop up just a little bit. This is accomplished by removing it and then adding a few washers on top of the mount when you reinstall it.

Do you have 15" rims? If so, get us a measurement from the top of the rim straight up to the edge of the fender on both sides.

slosurfer

Okay, I failed reading comp. I didn't realize this was your outer cv. I don't think this is directly related to droop like I was talking about. That usually tears the inner cv. I'm thinking your steering stops have been adjusted and are allowing you to turn too tight and then that combined with the added droop are ripping them.

Also, it's time to tear apart your hubs and give them a good cleaning and regreasing. While they may be working by testing them when they are sitting still. If the grease is old, sometimes there is enough "grip" inside the hub that while underway, it will actually turn your axles. They may not be turning as fast as they would be if they were engaged but can be turning. Have a friend drive behind or next to you on the freeway and see if the axles are turning.

I know all my ripped boots have been the inners, not the outers.

Also, for those newbs who don't know, strap22, is a great guy. He helped me out a lot when I first got mine. He just isn't on here as often anymore and no longer has his 2nd gen, in fact I believe he has moved onto a 4th gen.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

newb Thats me.