scuba

ok ima start of
91 22re 5speed pickup
today after i nice little bit of mud left that place and realized something was jacked about my clutch, basically it went from about 30lbs of pressure to like 5.
wtf
but anyway get home of realize i need to wash off my front suspension before i try and deal with anything that has to do with mechanics .
so i get in try and put it in reverse, no dice just alot of grinding, so i check the master cylinder
FULL
so my next thoughts were the slave cylinder
because
before i wrecked my 86 one ton the clutch went out the same way and i had to replace it.
thus being said
got a new one from o'rielys
got it in
NOW
my dad says the proper bleeding sequence is
clutch in, open and close valve from slave, clutch out
if anyone knows what im talking about, is that right ???
cause i had taken to a friends, he said something about a diff bleed method, witch didnt produce any results and made it worse, so.
i was leaving his house, knowing the clutch wasnt good praying it would get home, right out of homeboys neighbor hood is a hill, gave it gas and all i got was the engine reving, nothing more, nothing less.
so
is the bleeding method i stated the proper one, or am i doing something wrong

CH. 2
suggestions

apalmer1

the first method of bleeding is correct BUT it sounds like you roasted your clutch disk more than anything, or your pressure plate is no longer functioning. If you just got revving in gear trying to go up the hill that means the clutch is slipping which doesnt really have anything to do with the slave cylinder unless its jammed out somehow.

To bleed brakes or the clutch close the bleeder valve and have somebody pump the pedal then hold it down. Open the valve untill there is no more pressure hten close it and have them release the pedal and repeat untill you see no more air coming out. When you bleed it you should have a clear hose on the end of the bleeder valve going into a bottle with brake fluid in it, this way you can look for air bubbles and the valve wont suck air back up into itself because the end of the hose is in the fluid.

If i were you id try bleeding it one more time but i would assume you cooked a disk if it slipped that bad driving uphill. Was there any unusual smell or smoke coming from the transmission when you were mudding? do you ride your clutch often when your offroad?

Justinvd

If u start it in gear does it jump forward?even if the clutch is in?

scuba

just the slave cylinder
thats it
this same thing happened in my 86 2wd
replaced slave
problem solved

speaking of mudding
i did pop the clutch quite a few times
i noticed a weird gross TOP RAMEN smell
got out of the mud, noticed smoke coming from somewhere up in my front suspension
figured i needed a good clean off
got home
same bad clutch
so idk
tell me what i did wrong
tell me im dumb
im open for suggestions
btw
i love yotatech

apalmer1

yeah hate to say it but you probably burnt through the disk out in the mud. All the slave cylinder does is put pressure on the forks of the pressure plate to release the disk and allow you to shift. If your clutch is slipping (revving when under load in gear) thats a problem with the pressure plate or the disk, the slave cylinder doesnt have anything to do with holding the disk in place. The only way that would be the problem is if the plunger on it got jammed out somehow, i had that happen on my tacoma and it cost me a clutch disk before i realized it because the damn thing got jammed out somehow so the disk wasnt being held completely and i mashed the gas and just wasted the whole thing in a few minutes.

Like i said you can try bleeding it one more time just to be sure but id suspect the disk. Replacing the clutch with a new kit or just replacing the disk isnt hard, though it can be time consuming. clutch kits that have a pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing cost like $250, but if you feel like your pressure plate is still holding pretty well you can get away with just the friction disk for 50-100 dollars.

scuba

hmm
that puts a whole lot in perspective
im gonna have a hard time telling my dad i ed up the clutch in the mud
i will try bleeding again though
hopefully that will produce results,
if not
who makes a good kit like you speak of to put in there ??
on a scale of 1-10 im prolly about a 3
so far ive changed water pump starter and alternator and of course slave cylinder, so how hard do you think this would be to do ??

oh justin btw, the only way i could get it in reverse was to start it with the truck off, so i could get it out of my buddies driveway, but no, no jumping, just a whole lot of shaking when i barely release the clutch.

Justinvd

U have to drop the tranny in order to replace the disc

scuba

fudge
see
i have a couple of friends, both are major ford guys, but have helped me in my minor mechanic ways, they both recently did a engine and tranny swap in an 88 mustang and that thing screams.
so would it be correct to assume i need a case of beer and both there help to do this job ?
well seeing as how i drink about 9 or ten, my home boy weighs a good 275 and could prolly drink a whole case and my other bud drinks cheerleader beers i need a case and a half and a 12 pack of smirnoff, damn this seems like its getting more expensive by the word

scuba

anyone have any more opinions ??
should i put in a new master first ??
please help

WFO

When you put a new clutch in you should go ahead and put in a new master so it wouldnt hurt to put it in first.

Replacing the clutch isnt a big deal. You can do it by yourself. The trans doesnt need to come all the way down, just back far enough for you to work in there.

scuba

well my dad knows a guy that works a lou fouse toyota in saint louis, gives us good prices
just quoted me at 220 for a clutch kit
i honestly dont want to go with some bs auto zone replacement and have to do this again in 10000 miles
so my truck is out of order until prolly next monday, ill be ordering it friday
along with a master cylinder from o rielys.
ill take lots of pics
i think itll be fun

apalmer1

im actually running an aisin disk in mine right now, they seem to have the best quality of the oem replacement parts, those disks are also used by centerforce and some other aftermarket clutch companies. Id try to avoid the delco clutch kits, ive eaten up 2 of those kits in my tacoma simply because the disks they were using didnt seem to hold up well enough to torque stress. Right now im using the delco pressure plate, and an aisin disk (P# DTX-196) it has very little peddle feel but so far its proved suprisingly bomb proof, i havent been able to produce any clutch slippage at all and believe me my truck gets used HARD.

If you have a good repair manual and a fair variety of tools the clutch really isnt hard to do, just time consuming. $220 is about what you can expect to buy a whole clutch kit, or at least thats how much it is for a tacoma.

If youve got some patients and some time i think you will actually find it fun as you said, its a nice way to get to know your vehicle