naadomail

Hello guys. I am working on getting my girlfriend's "new" Toyo up to spec. It's a 1992 pickup, 2wd, automatic, 2.4L. So far I have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, radiator with flush (rusted out) and a few other odds and ends. Runs great.



The next project I'm tackling is the A/C. The lines have pressure in them still. according to the previous owner, the belt hasn't been on in over a year. I'm guessing that's a good sign. I'm trying to determine if the clutch on the compressor is out, or if the entire compressor is likely seized and the clutch broke as a result. Here is the situation:



http://s578.photobucket.com/albums/s...=VIDEO0003.mp4<-----CLICK FOR VIDEO

Also, the speedometer an odometer don't function properly. The odometer does nothing, and the speedometer hops when either you rev the engine in park, or when shifting between gears. Apart from that it too, does nothing. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Hadmatt54

AC- Try turning the compressor by hand or if you can't do that put a deep socket and ratchet on the center bolt of the pulley to see if it can be turned. If it's free put a belt on it and see if the clutch engages or disengages. The engine has to be running and the blower controls have to be in the AC position before the AC clutch will even try to engage.
Speedo- That truck is supposed to have an electronic speedometer. You probably have a faulty speed sensor or a broken wire that may be making contact now and then (aka hops). The speed sensor is on the tail end of the transmission on the driver's side and it has a connector with 3 wires coming into it. 12v from the battery, a ground and a signal that carries the pulse back to the speedometer.

naadomail

I didn't know about the A/C having to be on...that makes sense. In the video, I put a wrench on what I think is the center bolt. It turns fairly easily without the A/C on. Is that what you meant? The cluth is obviously dead. It wobbles severly and has a crack in it. It seems to turn on an extra plane as well.

Hadmatt54

My reasoning behind this was you want to make sure the pulley turns freely before trying to put a belt on it to test the clutch engagement, but from your description it sounds like it's pretty much trashed anyway, so you should try and find another unit.
Here are other Toyotas that use the same AC compressor.

Parts cross-reference


Part 88320-35270 (COMPRESSOR ASSY, COOLER) was found on the following models:

Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram
08/1988-10/1995 TOYOTA 4RUNNER TRUCK RN10*,110,13*,VZN10*,110,13* 87-19: HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

08/1988-11/2004 TOYOTA HILUX LN200,RN8*,90,125,RZN200,YN8*,9*,LN8*,90 87-19: HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

08/1988-10/1995 TOYOTA 4RUNNER TRUCK RN8*,90,12*,VZN85,9*,VZN120 87-19: HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

02/1992-12/1994 TOYOTA 4RUNNER TRUCK RN101,110,VZN100,110 87-19: HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

09/1991-12/1994 TOYOTA 4RUNNER TRUCK RN80,90 87-19: HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

naadomail

I got a new compressor with a good clutch. How does one remove the A/C compressor clutch?

naadomail

Got it. The old compressor housing had been destroyed by the broken clutch and ignorance. I replaced the compressor, vacuumed the system, and charged it. Good as new.

conquistador

iTrader: (1)

I hope you replaced the dryer while you had the system open or you'll have problems in the future.

The purpose of the drier is to remove moisture from the refrigerant and it can only do its job as long as it has not absorbed moisture already which is what would happen when the a/c system is opened. If you dont replace the drier, excessive moisture in the system would damage the compressor, tubing in the condenser and evaporator. I speak from experience, worked at an automotive a/c repair shop in my younger years.

naadomail

Yes, but exposure for only a very short amount of time will not inhibit it's effectiveness as it is simply a canister of silica. At least, that's what I'm going with. Worse case scenario I replace another compressor. -shrug-

98_3RZ

if the old compressor shelled, you might be in for a BIG headache in the future. if it shelled, it dislodged metal into the entire sysytem, and when you turn on the new compressor after install and charging, it will push all of those metal particles through the system, back to the compressor. try all you want, but if it shelled, you WILL not get the shrapnol out of the components. if this compressor shells in the near future. replace everything, compressor, condensor, receiver/drier, evaporator, expansion valve, and every single seal in the system, the lines will be reuseable, but thats about it.

naadomail

Again you are correct. However, the compressor is/was fine. It was the clutch that grenaded. The compressor turns like new and held pressure.

naadomail

Alrighty. I shelled out for a new vehicle speed sensor today. I put it on, and nothing seemed to change apart from a lack of speedometer hop while shifting gears. Recently, (before the speed sensor fiddling) the idle has become erratic. When cold, it idles normally. After it warms up, it idles much higher than it should. Sometimes, the idle loops when warm. going up to about 1000 RPM, then falling to near dying over and over again in short 1 second intervals. This only happens when in park, and sometimes only when pressing the brake pedal. Also, the looping is not always present. My first thought was vacuum leak, but I just sprayed the lines with carb cleaner in order to detect a leak. Not dice. As a side note. OF COURSE on my test drive a random rock hit my windshield and left a crack straight across the driver's side view. Awesome.

naadomail

Seems the speed sensor fixed the idle issues...somehow. Now to replace the cluster :/