liferunner2

Elripster,

Whenever you get that part number info. could you send it to me, I would be much obliged. Thank you Sir.

Chris

Edit: Ah, you were editing while I was posting, now I am editing. They both have the same length of travel? Which way does the one you have now limit, too long or too short?

Edit #2: Ah, I just read your post again, too short and the other is a half inch longer. My mistake.

liferunner2

At Downey they have a spring application chart for these shocks and they say 8434, front and 8250, rear for 1.5'' lift. Also, on their chart do you know what the D in the part number implies?

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Suspen...Absorbers.html

Chris

elripster

I'll post the correct part number here and on our website.

Frank

elripster

The correct Doetsch Tech p/n's are 3078, 8069, 9069.

Frank

GenXr

Elripster and others, thanks for this thread, it is very helpful and mirrors the direction I wish to take my truck.

Subscribed!

liferunner2

Elripster,

Thanks for the info. By the way, which PN is for which part, I was only buying two PN's before, front and rear shocks. What is the third # for? Also, are all of these parts still in that pre-runner series of shocks?

Chris

Edit: Went to DT's website, helped in figuring out the 3000,8000,9000 stuff. Which series are you getting? I have to call and change my order tomorrow morning before the wrong Pre-Runners end up on my doorstep. Thanks again.

f4stunna

yes, thank you guys as well

im going to be ordering the complete OME kit less the torsion bars and some ball joint spacers

liferunner2

Also, PN 8069 & 9069 I see are the stem/hoop for the fronts. The rear hoop/hoop are 8052 & 9052, I believe. Same size just different mounts.

Chris

Gator

I was reading over this and many other threads regarding Ball Joint Spacers and have come close to finding my answer, but not directly.

What would the harm be in using 1-1/2" BJS and doing a Torsion Crank for about another 1-1/2" of lift in the front? I have a 94 with manual hubs that only get locked when heading off road. I'm not overly worried about a "Cadillac ride", but don't want to end up breaking something needlessly.

AxleIke

As long as you wheel mildly, and can still align the truck, you'd be fine. If you wheel harder stuff, you will destroy steering right and left. I had zero torsion bar crank, and just the bj spacers, and was spitting out steering stuff every trip. Now, with my torsion bars relaxed, so that the truck is back at stock height, My truck keeps itself together, for the most part.

Gator

Not trying to sound ignorant here, but please explain more about your steering issues you experienced.

Am I understanding you correctly in that you experienced these problems with nothing more than BJS?

AxleIke

No.

That was all the lift I had.

33's, two lockers, 100:1 Crawl ratio, and some seriously rough trails had a lot to do with it. However, Now that I've relaxed the torsion bars, I no longer have the problems. Nothing else has changed. Relaxed back to stock, and it stays together.

As for the issues: pretzeled tie rod ends, bent center link, and more bent idler arms than I care to remember. Flygtenstein has the best picture to describe it. This happened fairly frequently.

Gator

you brought me back to my reason for researching this to begin with. You mentioned you were running 33's, how did they do after uncranking the torsion bars with nothing more than the BJS's? Did you have any clearance issues? I am looking to put 33's under my ride, but was concerned about clearance.

I have also read about issues with lockers in IFS setups causing steering issues. Were you running a locker in the front or was it a LSD? Do you think this contributed to the problems you had?

I hate to be a pest, but you just happen to have gone through what I want to avoid with a similar set up to what I have been researching.

Gator

BTW, that first photo should have made the cover of the 2008 calendar! A real turn on to those who say "If you ain't breakin something, you ain't wheelin!"

AxleIke

No worries man. I don't consider it pesky at all. Happy to help.

I have two ARB's. I ran an LSD in the rear for a while and hated it.

My 33's are fine. No problems. You can put a 33x10.50 on stock. Not the 12.50 though. Lots of clearance problems there. However, I did hammer my pinchweld flat. So, you'll have to do that.

I'm building DOM steering to fix my steering problems.

However, I also ran several easy trails where the front was never locked. So, open front end. I bent two idlers that way.

The other failures were on hard trails, and with the front locked.

As I said, if you don't see a lot of rocks, and aren't on very difficult trails, I think you're steering will be fine. If you're concerned, I'd say that the idler is the easiest thing to break. Get a set of Brass Bushings for it, and a brace from downey. I would imagine you'll be fine there.