Bigger Leaf Pack vs. Long Shackles
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Bigger Leaf Pack vs. Long Shackles
Well, here's the next thing on my to-do list thats been on my mind. Been wanting to get rid of my blocks, and have been debating on whether to go with longer shackles or a bigger leaf pack. See, the way I've been figureing was to go with the longer shackles (3-4"), and get a little more use outta my stock leafs. Then later on go with a bigger leaf pack (been lookin at the superlift's 3 or 4" leaf pack for $124.99 a piece from 4wheelparts). Cause I believe the shackles would be much cheaper to have fabed than those leaf packs, right?
So what are yall's thoughts on the matter? Pros, cons on leafs vs shackles? All opinions appriciated.
So what are yall's thoughts on the matter? Pros, cons on leafs vs shackles? All opinions appriciated.
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Although I realise my ass end will be sittin a good deal higher than my front, but I haven't even thought about what to do bout the front yet, so any ideas on that too would also be helpful
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#9
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http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ12
While a longer shackle will give lift, it won't change the spring rate. So if your stock springs are sagging under the load (especially on a 4Runner), then they will still be sagging with the shackles. Lift springs will help carry the weight better. Shackles with a decent add-a-leaf, like the Rancho Soft-Ride AAL kit (http://www.gorancho.com/) is another option. OME makes a good 2" lift spring: http://www.arbusa.com/. JC Whitney carries decent stock height springs for under $150 as I recall.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 11-30-2006 at 10:54 AM.
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I vote also for making the most lift with the springs. I have Downey 1 Piece 1.5" longer shackles with AALs and the AALs made more difference. I need to look at some heavier duty packs because I carry too much weight but if you don't carry a bunch of tools, spares, and equipment like I do then I think it's a really nice setup (rides and flexes great and was about $100 for the AALs and shackles).
For the lift Swamp is talking about definitely springs. Super long shackles make it sway too much for my tastes and then you mess up shackle angles, etc...
For the lift Swamp is talking about definitely springs. Super long shackles make it sway too much for my tastes and then you mess up shackle angles, etc...
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Thanks yall, have definitely given me things to thing about. Now yall got me wantin to do get mild shackles, 4-5" springs, AND a add-a-leaf now!
Now I gotta sersiously think about the front, cause I imagine seein the rear end sittin a good 8" higher than the front would look pretty wierd to some people.
But keep the input rollin! Appriciate all the help so far!
Now I gotta sersiously think about the front, cause I imagine seein the rear end sittin a good 8" higher than the front would look pretty wierd to some people.
But keep the input rollin! Appriciate all the help so far!
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If you get new springs it's kind of redundant to do an AAL too.. That's more to get lift out of stock springs. Just get whatever springs you need for the right height.
As far as the front, are you going to stick with IFS or eventually get a solid axle?
As far as the front, are you going to stick with IFS or eventually get a solid axle?
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I agree as far as what you said about aal are kinda redundant after just getting a new pack, but they also act as a overload spring that you see dually diesels using. And occasionally I have been know to pile a lot of weight back there, and I just prefer a buffer
As far as the front, I eventually plan to sas it, but that day is very far from now. But for the sake of aurgument, lets say no, I'm never going with solid axel.
As far as the front, I eventually plan to sas it, but that day is very far from now. But for the sake of aurgument, lets say no, I'm never going with solid axel.
#15
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DON'T DO EITHER! Just do a chevy spring swap. You obviously hit the trail with that thing so they will only make things better that way and they do well of the road. It will most deffinately cost less then new springs, ride better on the road, flex better off road and give you the lift you want.
#19
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Man, I've done almost every one of those options.
Longer shackles = 1.5 inches or so. If your stockers are already on the overload (flat) then it will still ride like crap, but don't worry, you'll probably use those shackles later.
AAL is an option. The 2 leaf "soft ride" will get you about another 1.5 inches. Lots of work. Get a shim in there while you have the pack apart to bring the nose of the diff back down after you added the longer shackles. Mine broke at the bolt hole after 2 years of wheelin'.
Next up: Stock length 4 inch lift springs. You'll want the longer shackle here too. I was able to invert the stock shackle with mine (and a load of wood in the back.) the springs went nice and flat, but the shackle wasn't long enough, layed flat on the frame, and didn't come back off of it. I wound up pulling a couple of leaves to compensate for putting the ol' long shackles back on. Keep these for your rears up front project later.
Then: Mazda spring swap: 56 inchers. Bought a couple of stock front hangers and welded them right in front of the originals. Worked pretty well for the last 3 years, but I was always adding leaves. They just can't take the weight. I used the same ol' Long shackles.
Now: Marlin's 4 inch rears. I used trail-gear's front hanger this time. They work GREAT (so far) they ride better than any thing I've had under the truck so far. I haven't lifted a tire yet, but I measured 17 inches difference left and right while crossed up on a snow pile yesterday. Drawback, I might have to move my rear hanger back too. I'm dreading that because I could have done the chevy swap for the same amount of work. We'll see how it works after a year on the trail. With the long shackles kicked back pretty far on my 4runner, I'm inches form the fender lip to the top of a 15 inch rim.
63 inch chevy option: a lot of people end up with blocks in addition to the springs = axle wrap = e-brake cable in the way. That doesn't turn me on. but, they are inexpensive and are proven to work very very well. Nothing else wrong with this method. Have to add new front and really should add new rear mounts.
link it: Want to do it once? Link the rear and run really long air shocks. You'll be able to adjust ride height at will. more load? add air. front too low? let air out. For the amount of work I've done over the last 10 years, I wish I had done it this way. (of course, it is nice not having shocks and towers sticking up though the 4runner bed too!)
Longer shackles = 1.5 inches or so. If your stockers are already on the overload (flat) then it will still ride like crap, but don't worry, you'll probably use those shackles later.
AAL is an option. The 2 leaf "soft ride" will get you about another 1.5 inches. Lots of work. Get a shim in there while you have the pack apart to bring the nose of the diff back down after you added the longer shackles. Mine broke at the bolt hole after 2 years of wheelin'.
Next up: Stock length 4 inch lift springs. You'll want the longer shackle here too. I was able to invert the stock shackle with mine (and a load of wood in the back.) the springs went nice and flat, but the shackle wasn't long enough, layed flat on the frame, and didn't come back off of it. I wound up pulling a couple of leaves to compensate for putting the ol' long shackles back on. Keep these for your rears up front project later.
Then: Mazda spring swap: 56 inchers. Bought a couple of stock front hangers and welded them right in front of the originals. Worked pretty well for the last 3 years, but I was always adding leaves. They just can't take the weight. I used the same ol' Long shackles.
Now: Marlin's 4 inch rears. I used trail-gear's front hanger this time. They work GREAT (so far) they ride better than any thing I've had under the truck so far. I haven't lifted a tire yet, but I measured 17 inches difference left and right while crossed up on a snow pile yesterday. Drawback, I might have to move my rear hanger back too. I'm dreading that because I could have done the chevy swap for the same amount of work. We'll see how it works after a year on the trail. With the long shackles kicked back pretty far on my 4runner, I'm inches form the fender lip to the top of a 15 inch rim.
63 inch chevy option: a lot of people end up with blocks in addition to the springs = axle wrap = e-brake cable in the way. That doesn't turn me on. but, they are inexpensive and are proven to work very very well. Nothing else wrong with this method. Have to add new front and really should add new rear mounts.
link it: Want to do it once? Link the rear and run really long air shocks. You'll be able to adjust ride height at will. more load? add air. front too low? let air out. For the amount of work I've done over the last 10 years, I wish I had done it this way. (of course, it is nice not having shocks and towers sticking up though the 4runner bed too!)
Last edited by leiniesred; 12-01-2006 at 07:14 AM. Reason: more detail
#20
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The great thing about the chevy swap is if you make your own hangers you can have multiple spring heights right away. So if all you want is the standard 2-3" of lift then mount them as low as possible. If you do an SAS then you can move the mounting point down and fab up some longer shackles and gain another 1-3". You will have a solid 1/2 ton of cargo weight capacity back there too. Whatever you do don't put blocks, I did on my old runner and the only thing I got was lift, ĊĊĊĊty) ride and the potential for axle wrap.
Depending on who does the welding you could do the chevy swap for $50-$100.
Depending on who does the welding you could do the chevy swap for $50-$100.