89blaster89

ok so I had this little 93 Toyota 2wd 22re pickup running great for 2 months straight daily driver 18 miles every day, so then today I went to drive it and it runs awesome for about 7 miles then when I hit the gas it just makes a clunking sound and sputters like im in to high of a gear (the same sound) but im not in to high of a gear, so then after about 1 mile of doing that it just gets worse and worse then it just dies and it wont start back up unless I jump it, then its good for another 7 miles or so, it seems like it gets even worse when the lights or any thing electric is on like the radio or blinkers ect... and sometimes it will only do it when the lights are on, also now since this started happening the engine light tuned off, when im coming off a stop trying to get going again after this starts happening it just barely goes, like it feels like it has 2 horsepower, I have to have the throttle in the perfect spot for it to go, kinda mid throttle ish... so bassicly, I have to jump it when I want to start it, then it goes 7 miles perfect then its just crap and spuutering, and sometimes it only with light son it does it... im stumped, battery is new, alternator is new, plugs, wires, and all that is new..... im stumped.......... also when blinker is on the speedo needle fluctuates up and down

Kiroshu

Sounds like a charging system malfunction.

Suspect faulty alternator.

Check Battery terminals/cables for corrosion.

Poor battery and engine grounds..?

89blaster89

thanks for the reply, the alternator is good I believe, I pulled the negative terminal while running and it kept going great, it idles ok, could be better, the terminals are new also, cables are freshly cut and cleaned, ill check other grounds, also could jumping another car cause this problem to happen?

Kiroshu

If and when "jumping" another vehicle incorrectly can damage multiple electrical components.

Also disconnecting the battery while engine is running on a computer controled vehicle is never a good idea. It can overload/overheat and damage the vehicles computer.

yotie

You said you disconnected the negative cable,,not sure if you ment positive,,,if you did disconnect the negative ,,try the disconnecting the positive terminal,,,and see what happens,,

89blaster89

will do that tonight, I always thought it was the neg that needed disconnected though? if it stops running though then its the alternator, I really need a ohm meter....

Sturmcrow

I am pretty sure that Autozone can test your alternator for you. I know they can test batteries. It's a cheap (aka free) way to rule out some possibilities.

Scrussanation

dude no way! that is EXACTLY what my truck did when ignitor went out... would piss me off it would start run and idle fine for a good while but if i actually put good load on it would start to act almost like no fuel and missing and eventually failed to run...at least till it cooled off and would do again alot quicker... i researched and no one had same issue i was getting code 14 (no IGF signal sensed by ecm) igf stands for I Got Fire. whenever the ignitor didnt send the IGF signal the ecm would automatically cut power to injectors... this is what happened to me at least... i would have swore fuel pump or something else but nope i replaced ignitor, (and coil too so it was all new) and been running better then ever!

Scrussanation

also noted was my rpm needle bounced all over and engine bucked and sputtered like it was failing lol. just thought id share my experience that was just like that... but mines a 3vze

Kiroshu

The igniters are defiantly notorious for drivability and engine performance problems.

Scrussanation

you can say that again... one thing I did notice was rpm wasnt right that day not long before it happened... almost seemed like 200 rpm off... then later on during the day all hell broke loose lol

89blaster89

wow! cool, im gonna check the ignitor, what exactly is it for and how much does it cost? could I replace it on my own? ....today I started it up and I also put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank (check engine light on for running lean) vacuum lins are good so I think the injectors are clogged, I also added some coolant, it was low. so I took it for a good drive and it ran awesome even the headlights were on, could overheating cause my problems? could dirty clogged injectors cause my problems?

not sure why my battery would go dead though? maybe the fuel pump is trying to pump but it cant so its running the battery down? idk but it started right up today and Im not having to jump it anymore. ill probally replace ignitor anyways if its cheap and somewhat easy... thanks

Kiroshu

Sensing a lot of sporadic speculation....

Did you even verify if the alternator was in good operating condition...?

^-- Removing battery terminals while engine is running is not an appropriate test procedure.

Sounds like you have a lot of little things going on...

Contaminated/restricted fuel flow can cause drivability problems. (Lean condition for example)

Overheating can cause the engine to run lean... and maybe a possible cause and or contributing factor for low coolant level...? (Leaking..?)

Improper coolant level can cause multiple drivability problems.

89blaster89

i haven't properly tested it no, I have been to scared to drive it as far as autozone, I will tommorw after school since its running goodish now,

scope103

"Igniter." It's next to the ignition coil, RockAuto has them for about $150.00, you "can" replace it yourself, and notwithstanding scrussnation's experience it sure doesn't sound like the cause of your problems.

As Kiroshu suggests, throwing $150 parts at your problem is a good way to run down your bank account, but not so good for fixing your truck. Yes, you need a multimeter to diagnose your charging problem http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Disconnecting the battery cable didn't tell you anything, and could easily have damaged electronic components. You should also check the ignition timing; it would explain your problems. You'll need a $20 timing light (which is a little cheaper than a $150 spec. igniter).

89blaster89

I do have a timing light and multimeter at my grandpas house I found out, the thing that gets me is how it can run so crappy then the next day it will run like it just came off the show room floor....I just don't get it, like I said tomorrow ill have auto test the alternator and such, I bought it from there so if its faulty they better get me a new one...

gigatech88

What is the voltage coming from your alternator?

What ifs your battery voltage without terminals connected?

Measure your voltage @ the battery when someone else tries to start it. Post your readings.

Do you have a way to put a load on your battery with a meter attached? You can get a cheap (decent) battery tester for about 65$

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=270644041317

I could go on and on.let's start with that

89blaster89

im gonna go buy a ignitor, if it doesent fix it i will return it. im pretty sure its my problem, it happened agan today

Scrussanation

Before you go off buying an igniter keep in mind it's probably UN returnable because it's high dollar electrical part unless defective auto store won't take back here in tx that I'm aware of. Also did you see what code your getting because even tho check engine light was off on mine it had it stored from when it started acting up so unless you disconnected the battery and rest the computer it should have it stored in memory just put the jumper in and if you get code 14 no doubt it's your igniter

89blaster89

i have disconected the battery..... hmm maybe i could get ignitor from junk yard? its 350 DOLLAR PART!