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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 08-18-2011, 06:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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"Big 3" Electrical Mod on '87 4Runner

Big 3 mod is upgrading:
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

I decided to upgrade my electrical wiring due to adding the following:

8500# Superwinch
12-place auxiliary fuse box
2 150W inverters (daughters gotta charge their DS's)
Optima YellowTop

and these are going on this weekend:

1 400W inverter
Stereo w/ 240W amp
Flex-a-lite fan 674 (draws 40A peak at startup & 19A running)
130A Denso rebuilt alternator

and an ARB locker compressor in a when the summer heat goes away.

Needless to say the stock wiring will be taxed after this weekend if not already. I picked up Stinger brand 1/0 AWG amp wire and have all of the materials.

I've also read up on the process and understand everything but one item. All of the write-ups that I found say to leave the stock alternator to battery positive (fuse box in my case) wiring in place.

WHY?

I understand that current flows through the path of least resistance which will be the new wire, so why eave the old? Sake of ease?

If so, couldn't I just bypass the fuse box, go directly from the alternator to the battery, and install my own inline fuse?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Last edited by angrybob; 08-19-2011 at 03:32 AM.
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrybob View Post
Big 3 mod is upgrading:
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

I decided to upgrade my electrical wiring due to adding the following:

8500# Superwinch
12-place auxiliary fuse box
2 150W inverters (daughters gotta charge their DS's)
Optima YellowTop

and these are going on this weekend:

1 400W inverter
Stereo w/ 240W amp
Flex-a-lite fan 674 (draws 40A peak at startup & 19A running)
130A Denso rebuilt alternator

and an ARB locker compressor in a when the summer heat goes away.

Needless to say the stock wiring will be taxed after this weekend if not already. I picked up Stinger brand 1/0 AWG amp wire and have all of the materials.

I've also read up on the process and understand everything but one item. All of the write-ups that I found say to leave the stock alternator to battery positive (fuse box in my case) wiring in place.

WHY?

I understand that current flows through the path of least resistance which will be the new wire, so why eave the old? Sake of ease?

If so, couldn't I just bypass the fuse box, go directly from the alternator to the battery, and install my own inline fuse?

Any help would be appreciated.
what would feed the fuse box if you bypass it? you would be better off leaving the original wiring there, and adding a larger wire to the battery.
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yessir...that is the plan. Leave it and install direct feed from the alternator to the battery with an inline 150A fuse.

Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Where can I find a thread about just the "Big 3 Mod"??? Every time I search I can't find anything actually explaining this mod.

A link would be awesome. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Outside of this site. Google "Big 3 Mod" and it will bring up audio forums with good write-ups.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:00 PM
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