Beefy front CV's?
02-06-2007, 03:40 PM
#41
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It is for the Gen 3 kit and retails for about $700. If you do it yourself it will coat you about $10-$15 and your labor. We were one of the 2 teams to test the new Gen 3 kit and all the steering components and never had a problem with it.
02-06-2007, 04:27 PM
#42
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700!!!!!!!!! wow I think I could maybe do that myself, is that a stock link they started with, looks like it. Any idea what kind of material they used to
construct that ?chromoly, I would assume. Although I still kind of like my idea
of cutting it in half and sliding it into a DOM sleeve, that still doesnt beef the
tierod mounts like that does. FYI I can't actually weld a lick, but I have a very talented friend
construct that ?chromoly, I would assume. Although I still kind of like my idea
of cutting it in half and sliding it into a DOM sleeve, that still doesnt beef the
tierod mounts like that does. FYI I can't actually weld a lick, but I have a very talented friend
02-06-2007, 04:30 PM
#43
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Yota82,
I have looked into some strengthening ideas, but i was concerned about strength. I scrapped the idea of a beefier centerlink (scratch built) since the steering takes such extreme forces. Would welding to an existing centerlink degrade the metal in anyway? I'm assuming hardened steel.
Also, what is the difference between chevy tierods and FJ80 ends?
One last question: IFS has been around longer than reasonably sized computers and laser tuning devices. How were alignments done in the old days, and has anyone come accross a resource that would have such information?
These are cool ideas, but seem to be a big expense if you only want to make your truck wheelable for a couple more years before you swap it. If i can figure out how to do my own alignments, i can wheel as I wish and align again before i go home.
I have looked into some strengthening ideas, but i was concerned about strength. I scrapped the idea of a beefier centerlink (scratch built) since the steering takes such extreme forces. Would welding to an existing centerlink degrade the metal in anyway? I'm assuming hardened steel.
Also, what is the difference between chevy tierods and FJ80 ends?
One last question: IFS has been around longer than reasonably sized computers and laser tuning devices. How were alignments done in the old days, and has anyone come accross a resource that would have such information?
These are cool ideas, but seem to be a big expense if you only want to make your truck wheelable for a couple more years before you swap it. If i can figure out how to do my own alignments, i can wheel as I wish and align again before i go home.
02-06-2007, 04:56 PM
#44
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1. Chimmike sorry bout the hijack but it seems to go along the lines of the original post (beefy ifs)
2. Axleike, I would think hardened steel would be the last thing you would want in a steering component like this. Hardening steel makes it brittle, i.e. suscetible to side loads which would be seen at articulation.
2. Axleike, I would think hardened steel would be the last thing you would want in a steering component like this. Hardening steel makes it brittle, i.e. suscetible to side loads which would be seen at articulation.
Last edited by fthertime666; 02-06-2007 at 05:06 PM.
02-06-2007, 07:17 PM
#45
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02-06-2007, 09:38 PM
#46
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1. Chimmike sorry bout the hijack but it seems to go along the lines of the original post (beefy ifs)
2. Axleike, I would think hardened steel would be the last thing you would want in a steering component like this. Hardening steel makes it brittle, i.e. suscetible to side loads which would be seen at articulation.
2. Axleike, I would think hardened steel would be the last thing you would want in a steering component like this. Hardening steel makes it brittle, i.e. suscetible to side loads which would be seen at articulation.
02-17-2007, 07:58 AM
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02-17-2007, 05:01 PM
#51
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So Rancho arms without the diff lowering brackets, I assume? I took a look at running the stock inners with that setup but noticed that the joint was at or past it's max. Which is why when Downey sold that as a kit, they used a slip yoke and u-joint. You need to upgrade your joint if you are doing any serious 'wheeling with Rancho arms.
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