Bad Rod Bearing: Questions
#1
Bad Rod Bearing: Questions
I know there's allot of knowledge here so I thought I'd ask a question about an issue I'm having with my 22RE engine that's giving me grief.
The engine had a bad knock so I pulled it out and pulled the oil pan. Once I got it open it was really apparent where the noise was coming from. Rod #2 was really loose and when I popped off the cap found there was no bearing. I expected it to be loose but didn't expect the bearing to be totally gone! So anyway, the crank is scored and will have to be ground or replaced.
2 questions: - Can anyone recommend where to get a 22RE crank? Did a search and see allot on the net for about $220 with bearings. Are these things any good? I know allot of stuff is coming over from China and all.
2nd question: - Do I have to do something with the scoring on the connecting rod? I'm thinking the connecting rod face acts as a seat for the bearing so the bearing will still provide a smooth surface for the crank to ride on. If anything I'm thinking the rough back will give the bearing seat some bite and reduce the chance of a spun bearing. Don't want to do the rod because I'll have to pull the head and deal with everything that goes with it (warpage, resurface, gaskets, etc...) Really don't want to put allot of money into it. Would considering getting another engine if I could but the only ones I can find have "just been rebuilt" by backyard mechanics and I don't trust them
Can I get away with leaving the rod and just doing the crank?
Any opinions?
The engine had a bad knock so I pulled it out and pulled the oil pan. Once I got it open it was really apparent where the noise was coming from. Rod #2 was really loose and when I popped off the cap found there was no bearing. I expected it to be loose but didn't expect the bearing to be totally gone! So anyway, the crank is scored and will have to be ground or replaced.
2 questions: - Can anyone recommend where to get a 22RE crank? Did a search and see allot on the net for about $220 with bearings. Are these things any good? I know allot of stuff is coming over from China and all.
2nd question: - Do I have to do something with the scoring on the connecting rod? I'm thinking the connecting rod face acts as a seat for the bearing so the bearing will still provide a smooth surface for the crank to ride on. If anything I'm thinking the rough back will give the bearing seat some bite and reduce the chance of a spun bearing. Don't want to do the rod because I'll have to pull the head and deal with everything that goes with it (warpage, resurface, gaskets, etc...) Really don't want to put allot of money into it. Would considering getting another engine if I could but the only ones I can find have "just been rebuilt" by backyard mechanics and I don't trust them
Can I get away with leaving the rod and just doing the crank?
Any opinions?
#3
Registered User
Guaranteed your rod bearing circle has been hammered way out of round. I can't imagine that rod, which ALREADY puked it's bearing, is going to hold a new one. Possibly the oil journals are packed with metal. There are no shortcuts in this scenario. You can pay once by doing it right the first time or pay twice by doing it wrong the first time.
Get your parts here:
http://www.engnbldr.com/
Get your parts here:
http://www.engnbldr.com/
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I second Engine Builder for parts.
Now I hope the bearing was in the bottom of the oil pan.
If the rod is ruined do you really want to reuse it??
You don`t trust back yard mechanics but your ready to reuse a rod that should be thrown away.
Pictures would be a big help
Now I hope the bearing was in the bottom of the oil pan.
If the rod is ruined do you really want to reuse it??
You don`t trust back yard mechanics but your ready to reuse a rod that should be thrown away.
Pictures would be a big help
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