Anyone running a mechanical gauge ?
10-24-2014, 12:29 PM
#21
Correct Correct use the oil sensor Thread as a thread gauge, the kit should come with a little brass fitting to inter change to get the correct thread, make sure to fasten down the hose loosely in middle for little movement ( dip stick bracket) and good on Tee end so when 4x4ing wont bounce around.
10-24-2014, 03:29 PM
#22
Some people like to keep the low oil pressure light for some unknown reasons.
In which case the sending unit gets plumbed into the tee .
As far as the hot oil myself I think I would rather have Gasoline then oil given the choice oil is just a whole lot more messy to clean off the seats and wind shield.
In which case the sending unit gets plumbed into the tee .
As far as the hot oil myself I think I would rather have Gasoline then oil given the choice oil is just a whole lot more messy to clean off the seats and wind shield.
10-24-2014, 06:28 PM
#23
Some people like to keep the low oil pressure light for some unknown reasons. In which case the sending unit gets plumbed into the tee . As far as the hot oil myself I think I would rather have Gasoline then oil given the choice oil is just a whole lot more messy to clean off the seats and wind shield.
10-25-2014, 07:19 AM
#24
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You either have the gauge or the idiot light; not both. The sensors are different. The panel is only wired for one.
You use the Tee to keep both sensors, so if your panel was a no-gauge/have-light, you'd plumb in the old on/off stock sensor and your new mechanical gauge.
You use the Tee to keep both sensors, so if your panel was a no-gauge/have-light, you'd plumb in the old on/off stock sensor and your new mechanical gauge.
10-25-2014, 08:48 AM
#25
You either have the gauge or the idiot light; not both. The sensors are different. The panel is only wired for one.
You use the Tee to keep both sensors, so if your panel was a no-gauge/have-light, you'd plumb in the old on/off stock sensor and your new mechanical gauge.
You use the Tee to keep both sensors, so if your panel was a no-gauge/have-light, you'd plumb in the old on/off stock sensor and your new mechanical gauge.
10-25-2014, 02:52 PM
#26
I believe the mechanical gauges come with 1/8 inch nylon tubing. *IF* installed correctly they really don't have a problem with leaking. Just be sure to install it with a little extra line. This will prevent the line from being pulled tight and ripping in case something moves (broken motor mount etc). Also don't route the line in an area where it will make contact with metal. Use a rubber grommet to run it through the firewall, no exceptions.
If you are worried about it breaking or leaking you can purchase isolator brackets and braided lines that are pre-made through some performance shops.
Prices vary, example http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braide...-Kit,4147.html
http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105...oductId=745223
I found the size of the line to be a factor in the gauges sensitivity or accuracy. In one application I had to install either a copper line or braided line on a friends built 454 because NHRA rules required it. After talking to the owner of the performance shop I use I opted to go with a larger diameter (think it was 1/4 OD) copper line. After that I could see the needle rise and fall at idle as the cam's long split duration and tight lobe separation angle made the engine lope pretty good.
If you are worried about it breaking or leaking you can purchase isolator brackets and braided lines that are pre-made through some performance shops.
Prices vary, example http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braide...-Kit,4147.html
http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105...oductId=745223
I found the size of the line to be a factor in the gauges sensitivity or accuracy. In one application I had to install either a copper line or braided line on a friends built 454 because NHRA rules required it. After talking to the owner of the performance shop I use I opted to go with a larger diameter (think it was 1/4 OD) copper line. After that I could see the needle rise and fall at idle as the cam's long split duration and tight lobe separation angle made the engine lope pretty good.
Last edited by Odin; 10-25-2014 at 09:51 PM.
10-26-2014, 08:26 AM
#27
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Not a big fan of mechanical gauges, the previous owner of the camaro had one plumbed and the day after i got it home, the nylon line he used got too hot in the engine bay, melted and nearly caught the car on fire… I guess if you were going to get one, i would make definitely sure to buy the copper line instead of the nylon, and keep it out of the passenger compartment.
10-26-2014, 07:07 PM
#28
If it melted it was substandard tubing or it was mounted incorrectly. I've installed several in Chevy's and never had a problem with melting.
Last edited by Odin; 10-26-2014 at 07:13 PM.
10-27-2014, 03:21 AM
#30
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Or you can just get an electric one, sender and all for 70 bucks and not worry about oil spraying everywhere.
10-27-2014, 04:06 AM
#31
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Clok, auto meter makes copper tubing specifically for their gauges, i would get that before spending money on braided tubing.
10-27-2014, 06:18 AM
#32
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Isn't braided tubing steel braid over rubber? I thought it increased abrasion resistance a little but heat resistance not at all. If you put braided line too close to the exhaust it would melt through the rubber, and the oil would just ooze through the braid.
But correct installation is still required; even a copper line laid over an exhaust line would, at a minimum, vaporize the oil inside. Also, copper is pretty rigid (at least compared to nylon), so running a copper line from the engine to the panel would subject it to flexing. Maybe too much flexing.
But correct installation is still required; even a copper line laid over an exhaust line would, at a minimum, vaporize the oil inside. Also, copper is pretty rigid (at least compared to nylon), so running a copper line from the engine to the panel would subject it to flexing. Maybe too much flexing.
Last edited by scope103; 10-27-2014 at 09:10 AM.
10-29-2014, 09:42 PM
#33
So I ended up buying a 6ft 4an stainless steel braided line with 1/8 connection at each end and for extra protection gonna wrap it with earls flame and heat protector around the engine manifold (exh) it bit of over kill with all this protection but I will sleep better at night 😜, now I haven't taken the a piller off yet where the gauge will be mounted but does anyone know if I'll be able to run the braided line down the a piller and out by the front lower kick panel next to the fuse box ?? Any suggestion would be appreciated ! 👍
10-31-2014, 07:30 PM
#34
So got the gauge installed and working good , only major problem I had was the 1/8 x28 British pipe thread fitting I got from autometer didn't fit in the engine block so took matters in my own hand and tapped the block with a 1/8 npt fitting and problem solved working like a champ now , thanks everyone for all the info.
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