am i doing something wrong when installing wheel bearings?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
am i doing something wrong when installing wheel bearings?
i just did front wheel bearings inner and outer.
question is after a couple hundred miles of driving. they are loose again.. about 6-8 thousands of movement.
i used the tab washer thing and bent them over the nuts as the book says. i followed the book step by step.
any tips? or soemthing i missed?
86 4runner btw..
question is after a couple hundred miles of driving. they are loose again.. about 6-8 thousands of movement.
i used the tab washer thing and bent them over the nuts as the book says. i followed the book step by step.
any tips? or soemthing i missed?
86 4runner btw..
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
yes, the races were fully seated. timken bearings from autozone..
if i jack the front tire up off of the ground and grab the top of the tire i can wiggle it back nd forth (towards the engine and away from it.).
i am measuring it by putting a dial indicator on the arm and moving the tire against it. and it moves 6- 8 thousands.
when i first installed them i did the same thing and it moved less the 2 thousands.
the only reason i suspect something is wrong is becuz when i go over a bump. (rail road tracks, etc) i can feel (it in the floorboards) and hear a clunking noise in the front end.
if i jack the front tire up off of the ground and grab the top of the tire i can wiggle it back nd forth (towards the engine and away from it.).
i am measuring it by putting a dial indicator on the arm and moving the tire against it. and it moves 6- 8 thousands.
when i first installed them i did the same thing and it moved less the 2 thousands.
the only reason i suspect something is wrong is becuz when i go over a bump. (rail road tracks, etc) i can feel (it in the floorboards) and hear a clunking noise in the front end.
#10
shot in the dark here, but maybe the grease had some air pockets.... did you torque em? re torque em, see if it happens again. at first thought, it sounds like ball joints, but im guessing you have looked at those, and since you have put a dial to em, you still have movement. yeah, torque em back down, put in a new cotter pin, and try that. I had the same issue when i replaced mine, just tightened it back down and have had no issues 5000 miles later.
#12
Registered User
A few thousands play (although it is a small concern) probably wouldn't make "clunking" noises; ball joints often make that kind of noise, tho.
Whatever you do, don't overtorque those bearings. You'll get further on too loose bearings than too tight. Overtight bearings will tighten further as they get hot, and as someone who has had wheel bearings seize while rounding a corner, I can tell you that it is something best avoided.
The procedure in the fsm gives two checks on bearing tension which is good; the only change I would make would be more turns forward and backward after the initial higher torque of the bearings, maybe ten turns forward, ten back and then 3-4 forward before backing off the nut and retorqueing to the lower setting. Then the fish scale on the stud to test roll resistance as the double-check.
If you find it impossible to eliminate the play with those techniques, either bad bearings or worn outer races (the hub surfaces the bearings roll on). The races can be damaged by running with loose bearings or going too long between regreasing or by not using high-temp wheel bearing grease.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Whatever you do, don't overtorque those bearings. You'll get further on too loose bearings than too tight. Overtight bearings will tighten further as they get hot, and as someone who has had wheel bearings seize while rounding a corner, I can tell you that it is something best avoided.
The procedure in the fsm gives two checks on bearing tension which is good; the only change I would make would be more turns forward and backward after the initial higher torque of the bearings, maybe ten turns forward, ten back and then 3-4 forward before backing off the nut and retorqueing to the lower setting. Then the fish scale on the stud to test roll resistance as the double-check.
If you find it impossible to eliminate the play with those techniques, either bad bearings or worn outer races (the hub surfaces the bearings roll on). The races can be damaged by running with loose bearings or going too long between regreasing or by not using high-temp wheel bearing grease.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
alright.. thanx for the help guys. ill double check em again. and yes the ball joints are good.
it might also be my shock bushings making the clunking noise. i noticed they were a little loose and wobbly the last time i jacked the tire up..
and yea. mine were starting to seize. the steering wheel would jerk out of my hand going down the freeway. so i got a little worried and checked it. lol. so i replaced them. and i dont need this again. so im gna double check everything before i have to experience that again..
thanx again!
it might also be my shock bushings making the clunking noise. i noticed they were a little loose and wobbly the last time i jacked the tire up..
and yea. mine were starting to seize. the steering wheel would jerk out of my hand going down the freeway. so i got a little worried and checked it. lol. so i replaced them. and i dont need this again. so im gna double check everything before i have to experience that again..
thanx again!
#14
Registered User
If those bearings were starting to seize, you most definitely need to knock out those races from the hub and replace them. Get them from the dealer; 1sttoyotaparts gives a great discount (but then there's shipping).
BTW, the 93 fsm omitted the hub chapter; here's one from a 95 4Runner fsm that has the exact same specs as for my 89 truck:
http://www.the-roo.com/4runner/Suspension/frontaxl.pdf
EDIT: Oops, I see you have an 86; here's an 85 fsm:
http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/ . . http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/1985_...t_axle_FSM.pdf
or
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1985/1985FSM.pdf
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...44&postcount=2
BTW, the 93 fsm omitted the hub chapter; here's one from a 95 4Runner fsm that has the exact same specs as for my 89 truck:
http://www.the-roo.com/4runner/Suspension/frontaxl.pdf
EDIT: Oops, I see you have an 86; here's an 85 fsm:
http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/ . . http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/1985_...t_axle_FSM.pdf
or
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1985/1985FSM.pdf
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...44&postcount=2
Last edited by sb5walker; 11-28-2009 at 08:43 AM.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
thats prolly what i will most likely have to do... damn, the races seemed fine, not scaring, hot spots. or pitting. they seemed smooth. who knows. maybe ill just replace them anyways to be on the safe side.
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