YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-14-2005, 09:37 AM   #1
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4mydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: the beach
Posts: 1,454
95 4Runner won't start

My 4Runner won't start.
Earlier in the week it seemed to be cranking a little slower than usual, but I attributed that to the fact that I'm not driving it every day like I used to. Then one evening the check engine light came on, but it drove home OK. The next evening it didn't come on so I wrote it off as a non-issue.

This morning all I heard when I turned the key to Start was a little click from under the hood. It has plenty of lights, and volts, but I hooked up the jumper cables to our other truck just for the heck of it. No difference.

I searched prior posts but didn't come up with anything difinitive. Could the starter be bad? I'm no mechanic, but what could I check before I resort to calling The Hook? It's like 100 degrees heat index and the Runner is sitting on hot black top, so trouble shooting blind isn't much fun!
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
__________________
1969 FJ-40
2012 Sequoia SR5 4WD
1995 4Runner *SOLD*
1987 MR2 *SOLD*
4mydogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 09:50 AM   #2
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (2)
 
4Crawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 10,750
Could be a number of things. Do a little troubleshooting, especially the voltage at the starter solenoid control wire while trying to start, and see where that points you:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - YotaTech discount code
Gettin'Off 4WD Club
4Crawler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2005, 05:26 PM   #3
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4mydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: the beach
Posts: 1,454
Great page, thanks! I'll get cracking on it tomorrow after work.
__________________
1969 FJ-40
2012 Sequoia SR5 4WD
1995 4Runner *SOLD*
1987 MR2 *SOLD*
4mydogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2005, 05:15 AM   #4
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4mydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: the beach
Posts: 1,454
It was the starter, and they aren't cheap! But this was the first time my 4Runner ever failed to start for me in 141,000 miles, other than a dead battery once. And it did have the decency to crap out in my driveway, so I really can't complain!
__________________
1969 FJ-40
2012 Sequoia SR5 4WD
1995 4Runner *SOLD*
1987 MR2 *SOLD*
4mydogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2005, 03:42 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4Runaway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 23
Exclamation

Just FYI -- did you know that the original starter that came with the 4Runners are pretty doggone strong? And they can be fixed rather simply instead of replacing it altogether. Of course, there could be some deeper issue with the starter, but most of the time, it's just the solenoid contacts that wear. These can simply be replaced as outlined by the following links:

4runner starter contact replacement

Another example

And one more.

I hope this helps anyone checking out this thread -- for future reference.

4Runaway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2006, 01:59 PM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4Runaway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 23
Update on Starter Rebuild & Install...

Just an update on my situation with the starter in my '95 4Runner:

I purchased a starter solenoid rebuild kit which consisted of a plunger and two contacts (approximately $24.00 bucks with shipping). I removed the starter by removing the access panel to gain more clearance. No small feat, I did not even need to jack up the truck or remove the skid plate. But what made it much simpler was the fact that I had elbow connectors for my ratchets. I don't think the process would not have gone as smoothly without them.

Once the starter was removed, I followed the instructions in the kit (and from other posts), removed the plate covering the solenoid, removed the old plungers and used-up contacts, and replaced them with new (be gentle removing the plate, there is a rubber gasket that could very well break -- mine did, but I just pieced it together again and closed up the solenoid).

Placing the starter back into the truck was again a feat, but I managed to get it back in after some encouragement. The truck started up just fine.

So, instead of paying $100.00 plus bucks for a starter (price ranges between $95.00 for a local rebuilt of a lesser quality brand to $168.00 for a new rebuilt online) and about $100.00 to $150.00 for installation, I save all those bucks for 4-5 casual hours of time (I did not rush) and a $20.00 kit. The starter is starting the truck up like a champ!!!
4Runaway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2009, 08:59 AM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia Beach VA USA
Posts: 4
Just wanted to add my experience in hopes it will help somebody down the road.

Wifeys 94 Toyoda 4RNR 3V 6 Cyl with 120K started having start problems. Just the "click" but it was becoming more often. After diagnosing and eliminating battery etc. we pulled the starter.

Pulled the right front wheel and the well splash guard for access. The starter will come out thru there without taking out the motor mount etc. The two starter bolts have to come out from underneath and the long extension for the lower bolt which faces front as previously stated is a plus.
The secondary wire connector tab is a push to release connector which is nice to know since its a little hard to reach and mine was grease covered.

With the starter out we pulled the three phillips head screws off the cover on the end of the solenoid right next to the high voltage connections and the contacts and plunger are right there.

The battery side contact had a .030-.040 groove worn in it from making contact over the years. The starter motor side looked like brand new. So the newer looking contact was keeping the plunger from depressing enough to make contact on the battery side causing the no start/click.

As previously stated the motor itself is strong and long lasting plus rebuilds or aftermarkets may be inferior.

I opted to try just new contacts. Found a local starter shop
[RCS Electric on Military in Chesapeake if your local but they dont ship/mail order etc.] Two new contacts were a total of $5.15 tax included. Local dealer wanted $18.00 EACH. Part number is listed as "66-82756 NIPP CONTACTS 248-52017"...

Installing the new contacts is easy just do one side at a time and note the order of the insulators and seals as your taking it apart. When installing the new contacts, make sure to keep them pushed down and flat against the back panel so the center plunger will hit them both equal and square.

RCS had the center plunger [didnt check cost] but I decided to just try cleaning mine up with a fine clean file. Keep the surfaces square and remove all debris when your done.
I didnt investigate this but it appears the plunger may come apart allowing the plunger contact to be flipped over giving a brand new surface.

Reinstalling the starter is pretty straightforward but it is nice to have two people, one working underneath and one holding the starter thru the wheel well opening.

Starter works fine now for $5.15 worth of parts and about three hours worth of wrench turnin...
Safecrackin Sammy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2010, 01:39 PM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
4Runaway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 23
Well, 4 years later, I'm revisiting my starter. Recently, the starter I rebuilt began showing signs of rough starting again. It wasn't yet to the point where it wouldn't start leaving me with sounds of clicking, but it was sounding bad. I decided to go with rebuilding the original starter, again, since everything went well last time.

I went w/another rebuild kit I bought online (this time, I received a new gasket along with the contacts, plunger, and a few other goodies ~ $26.00). Took me a lot less time to pull the starter out and rebuild it (only a couple of hours of, what seemed to me, taking my time this round). What I did differently was loosen up a bracket, mounted just next to rear facing top bolt, that held away from the engine a soft-foam covered line... don't know what it is, though). Loosening up this goldish colored bracket helped me get it out of the way and made removing and reinstalling the starter a LOT easier.

Success! The 4Runner started up like a champ and I saved a boat load of money again. I used the following thread a very nice guideline (though I did not need to remove the tire):

Replacing Starter on YotaTech < A big thanks to Bob_98SR5 for originally posting this thread.

However, I do have a question from all this:

Since this starter is old, plastic and rubber pieces can and will break off (like the taps that affixed the accessed panel to the inside fender). However, there are two (2) raised rubber tubes, about an inch long, that come from two sides of the starter. Both are toast and just fell apart since the rubber is over 15 years old. It appears that they cover holes (about 4mm wide) built into the starter. What are holes for and why are the rubber thingy's designed that way (since they had little vents in them as well)? I was thinking they're designed to keep debris out while allowing ventilation, but that's purely a guess.

Link to stock photo (showing rubber piece on bottom left of starter picture).



And, thank you, YotaTech, for keeping your archives alive and well. A big help for us loyal 4Runner owners, indeed!
__________________
1995 Toyota 4Runner
Exterior: Burgundy / Gold Striping
Interior: Brown Cloth
Engine: Stock 3.0 V-6
Tranny: Stock 2WD Automatic
Tires: 31 x 10.50 - 15, Pirelli Scorpions
Options: Sunroof, Alarm, Tow Package, Auto Everything, 3Disc CD Player, Running Boards, Push Bar, Bug Deflectors, Roof Rack
Repairs: Rebuilt Starter & Timing Belt (2X), Replaced Driveshaft/Joints, Radiator, Windshield, Rear Bumper, and Regular Maintenance.
4Runaway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2010, 01:39 PM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
1995, 4runner, 94, 95, clicks, location, problems, rebuild, replacement, replacing, solenoid, start, starter, starting, toyota, wont

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
95 4runner cranks but wont start ? airrikk17 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 40 11-18-2013 05:16 PM
95 4runner turns over but will not start. jj5437 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 7 06-05-2012 05:19 PM
95 4runner hard to start pruney81 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 3 06-04-2006 06:57 PM
remote start on 95 4runner c-hall 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 1 03-13-2003 09:11 PM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:28 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.