TMP

Just ordered the complete half shaft from Checker:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1424&ppt=C0362

Lifetime warranty and I'm picking it up after work today.

This is my first 4runner and I have the FSM so I'm going to hopefully, weather permitting, do the job this weekend. This is my first 4runner so any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and do have an impact wrench at my disposal. I guess all else I need are basic tools and a 36mm socket.

I'll take pics the whole way thru.

Thanks all.

TMP

Oh yeah, 3.slo, automatic.

scope103

You'll only need the big socket if you're removing the rotor to service the bearings (which may not be a bad idea, but isn't necessary to replace the half-shaft).

Where many run into trouble (because the FSM doesn't warn otherwise) is that they lift the vehicle onto jack stands with the front wheels dangling. The angle of the half-shaft is wrong; you will never be able to extract it without doing major destructive surgery to your vehicle.

So put a jack under the rotor, and lift until the weight comes off the jack stand. The suspension should be compressed as though it were sitting on the wheels. At that half-shaft angle, it will come right out.

TMP

Thank you for the info. I have been reading up on this to prepare myself and it's these kinds of tips I need!
Is it for sure 36mm? I may actually have one for the top bolt on my triple clamp of my ninja. I'll check the size, if not I'm going to buy one when I go pick up the axle tonight.
To service the bearings just clean and repack? I'll look it up in the FSM.

Thanks again.

tried4x2signN

Keep yer old one... Just re-boot it in your spare time and when that POS blows you can just swap the higher quality one back in...

(Assuming it's a factory piece)

And the socket, unless I'm mistaken is a 52 or 53mm socket...

You'll also want to grease things good and you might wanna put a seal in the back where the CV slips into the spindle/hub assembly.

Then, for the love of god, get some FACTORY AISIN hubs and bolt them one...

Then you'll have both shift on the fly and manual control of the hubs.

TMP

I was planning on rebuilding the one I pull out in the coming weeks.
How much are the hubs you speak of?
Is it worth getting a used pair from a yota yard?
It may have to wait til the spring as a new radiator and fan shroud are next on the list.

scope103

A rebuilt half-shaft is $60 at Autozone. The replacement boots are $16 each (you need to replace both if the outer one is the problem, which it usually is). Plus you need to buy the tool that corresponds to the CV boots you buy (don't get the tool until you confirm which of the two types your new boots require!)

Is your time worth, oh, $30? It's a really messy job.

And while replacing the fan shroud is likely to be important, remember that the longer you drive with a leaky CV Boot, the more "grinding grit" you are injecting into the CV Joint. You would be well advised to get on it.

Just one man's opinion.

Wrenchinjoe

Manual hubs for your rig can be found on ebay pretty often. I picked up a set last spring for $65. If you already have the hub flange off to replace cv axles, it is really easy to install the manual hubs instead of the flange when you reassemble.

TMP

When I do hubs I think I'll go Aisin to retain the auto shift into 4wd.

Scope : As for the axle, I bought a complete unit, already assembled with lifetime warranty for $80. I will rebuild the old one over the winter and keep for future use. If anything, the axle is fine and only the outer cv boot is torn. I will prolly replace the cv with the boot on that end. The inner is not ripped thru yet but is showing wear. I'll inspect it too.

crolison

unless your wanting "auto-hubs", which suck btw, you don't retain the auto shift into 4wd.

azgold

My first post! Great forum Guys.. Heres my .02$

I did mine (both sides) myself, and was folowing a FSM if I recall. It really was not that hard to do. All I would say , is to take your time and try not to get frustrated.
Personally I would have sprung for the Toyota OEM replacement if you want quality. The Lifetime warantee from Checker probably means it will last a year , then you will be doing this again. My OEM`s lasted until 140 K I think.
Also I purchased a 18 inch socket extension for the inner 4 bolts so I could reach them without crawling under the truck. I was to chicken to do so, as I didnt like my jack stand setup
Anyway , best of luck with it ...Just take your time....

MudHippy

It's a 54mm Toyota spindle/hub nut socket to be precise. Though any old 54mm socket will probably do. I've even heard some folks say they've used a regular 2 1/8" socket and it works too.

I bought mine at NAPA for less than $20. But many other places have them too. Like Wabfab, Trail-Gear, Marlin Crawler, etc..


Sure you do. If the hubs are manually locked then you can shift "on-the-fly" into 4WD the same as when the drive flanges were installed. Switching to manual locking hubs doesn't change how the 4WD is engaged. Automatic locking hubs also have nothing to do with how the vehicle shifts into 4WD. They just lock and unlock the hubs without having to get out and do it manually.

The whole point in switching to manual/automatic locking hubs on an ADD equipped rig is to keep the CVs from spinning all the time. Manual hubs are only better than automatic because they stay locked untill you manually unlock them. Automatic hubs unlock when driving in reverse. Which basically means you only have 4WD going forwards, which SUCKS!

TMP

Great explanation. I did not know that about reverse. Aisin hubs have been recommeded seveal times so is that the best solution. I'm not going to much besides drive to work most of the winter and am not too concerned about this until spring.
Please recommend any other hubs that would work.
Thanks!!!

crolison

Still have to turn the knob

crolison

Get Aisin manual hubs

TMP

I've got it now. Thanks all for the enlightement! I will see if I can score a set of these hubs before the weekend.
Best place for OEM parts for a 94 v6?
Any way to tell if the axle assembly I pull out is OEM?

Thanks again!

MudHippy

I get all my OEM parts from 1stToyotaParts.com. I'll never show my face at a stealership. That would be just like admitting total defeat in my eyes. I'll just look up the part #'s in the EPC and order the OEM parts myself online. It's never failed me, and if it ever does, I'll know who to blame.

I can't think of any way to tell an OEM CV halfshaft from one made by a different manufacturer. I'd bet the differences, if any, are very subtle. Meaning they're all going to be made pretty much to the EXACT same specifications. I'd go with whatever's cheapest. I always do.

Duh! I said if they're locked, as in you did that part already. Genius...

TMP

A few folks suggested the Checker shaft unless I was going to be doing some hard wheelin which I am not. I just need to get thru winter and assess what repairs/upgrades need to be done in the spring.
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

TMP

Aisins en route. Picked up new gaskets today for $10 and will check the orings. There's some good write ups around on disassembly and what not but this is one I found that was extremely helpful:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

BTW:
A used pair for $50, Yoda Jims - Denver,CO
http://yodajims.com/

TMP

Replaced the half shaft today and working on rebuilding the Aisins. Waiting for the replacement O-rings on Tuesday and will hopefully have another weekend of good weather and slap these on.
Some of the advice about the axle job that I read which made this easier than simply following the FSM:
1. Impact Wrench (a must)
2. Extensions (also a must)
3. Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack & Tall Jack Stands (Sears for $100)
4. Channel locks to remove dust cover
5. Remove the sway bar mount (couldn't get the CV past it so I took it off)
6. To take the shaft out: Jack up the rotor, place jack stand under opposite rear side so suspension compresses when raising
7. Do NOT over torque the gold bolt (didn't)
8. Beer!