bdedon

First of all, I'm new to the site, and I noticed the "Introductions" board is rather dead, so I decided to start here since there are a good number of viewers. This is going to be relatively long, but I'm trying to provide as much detail as possible. Here goes...

This is my first Toyota 4x4. It's got the 22R, and it's a 5-speed. The check engine light never came on--and for all I know, it doesn't even work--but the other day while I was driving, I shifted to second, and once it got between 2,000-2,500 rpm, it was having trouble accelerating. It would finally get going once I got to almost 3,000 rpm, but every gear after that, it did the same thing. Even when I'm just cruising in 4th or 5th gear, it feels as if it's sputtering and struggling to accelerate.

Yesterday, I took into the shop, and they ran a diagnostics check on it, changed the rotor, distributor cap, plugs and wires, and the fuel filter. I drove it around after they performed all the maintenance on it, but it was still doing the same thing. I brought it back, and the mechanic said because it had been forever since a tuneup was done, it could be an exhaust problem, and the catalytic converter could be clogged. So, he poked a hole in the front pipe hoping to resolve the problem, but it's still not running like it should.

It's only got a little over 160K miles on it, and I know these trucks last forever if maintained properly. I'm not a full-blown gearhead, but I know enough to perform regular maintenance on it. The only reason I didn't do the tuneup myself is because I've had this problem before with a '92 Chevy, and I could never figure it out. It got to the point where it felt like the truck was going to die on me while driving. That truck was given to me, and it didn't have a cat on it. Just dual exhausts. I know, I know... that kind of stuff is highly frowned upon, and I don't endorse it whatsoever.


If I need to replace the cat, I'll do that myself. They were wanting to charge $400+ for the converter and labor, and I can do it myself for much cheaper. I haven't run a compression check on it yet, but I just added some Sea Foam to the gas tank to see if that would resolve anything. I've got a full tank right now, so I'll have to wait a few days before I notice anything. After driving it for a while today, it seems like once it gets warmed up, it runs somewhat better. But I can definitely tell it's not running like it was when I bought it.

If anyone has any idea what the problem could be, please enlighten me. I just bought the truck 5 months ago, and I'd like for it to last me through college and possibly beyond. It'd be the perfect hunting truck once I get an everyday vehicle, so I'm trying to preserve it in the meantime.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might want to pull any stored trouble codes (if any):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

And check the EGR valve, it may be opening at the wrong time or is stuck open.

yayfortrees

Does the engine light come on with key on, engine off? If it does, the light is working, so it would probably show a code if it had one. If not, you need to get that fixed to check for any codes, like 4crawler said. Definately go ahead and check the compression. I would do that next, before doing anything else.

I'm assuming that the shop checked the ignition timing? If so, was it off when they first checked it?

The 22RE is a pretty solid motor, but it does have an achilles heel. The cam chain guides are plastic, and the guide opposite the tensioner can break over time, which can of course cause all kinds of problems. Easiest way to check it is to pull the valve cover and look down the chain area with a good light. While the cover is off, might as well check valve clearance. Unfortunately, valve clearances are checked while the motor is hot on this motor, so that may be different than what you're used to.

You said the tech at the shop poked a hole in the front pipe. Did he also poke a hole behind the cat to compare pressures, or did he only poke a small hole hoping that would remedy the problem? Because if that's all he did, that's a joke, and he did nothing to rule out a clogged cat. I really don't think that is the problem anyway, since you said it seems to pick up a little after around 3,000 RPM. If it was the cat, I would think it would suffer in all RPMs.

Check the compression; ignition timing, and if necessary, the cam chain guide and valve clearances. If you have any further questions, just ask, and keep us posted on any updates.

Good luck and welcome to YT!

bdedon

My punch list so far:

Check compression
Check engine light needs to be fixed to check for any codes that may appear
Check EGR Valve
Check ignition timing
Check cam chain guide and valve clearances

Items to keep in mind:

Catalytic converter--After researching the particular cat he was going to use, I decided there is no way he's doing the job. I'll do it myself. He listed the cat at $288; it's a $105 cat sold in places like AutoZone, Napa, O'Reilly, and Advance Auto Parts. I made an A in economics, and although I struggle with margin% and markup calculations from time to time, this is like a 275% markup. I'd be crazy to go through with this.

Next oil change is due in under 1,000 miles. Like I mentioned in my first post, I just tried out Sea Foam. I'd never heard of the product prior to yesterday, but I'm giving it a shot. I've heard mixed reviews about Restore's engine restorer and lubricant, so I'm a little weary about using it.

What's everyone's thoughts on using any additive(s) to improve a problem like mine? Is Sea Foam all it's cracked up to be?

I've also heard the MAS may be a problem. Should I try cleaning it first before purchasing a new one?

Finally, if I'm going in the wrong direction, feel free to yell "STOP!" before I get in over my head. I know some of my terminology may differ from the usual jargon, and although I'm not a journeyman mechanic, I consider myself to be in between that infant and toddler stage where I'm just learning to walk when it comes to Toyotas. This is why I came to YT. So that at least one person or more than one person can guide me along. I love this truck, and I hope it lasts me forever.

My '96 Z-71 finally ended up costing too much to maintain. That 350 was bored out, and it was one hell of a motor. But I know the little four bangers in these Yotas are just as dependable as a 350, if not more dependable.

I appreciate all the help, and I love the fact that this site is troll-free. Jeep has--or had--a similar site, and when I owned a Wrangler, they were a great help. So, I just want to say, thanks for welcoming me, and I look forward to future discussions with everyone.

bdedon

I'm going to save this thread and print it out so I know what all to check. I've got another week before I start summer classes, so I'm going to knock out my punch list this week. Lucky for me I've got enough money saved up to where I don't need a job right now, so I have all summer to get this rig in top condition. Plus I'm taking easy classes (History of Rock & Roll and Statistics), so in all honesty, I'll have no excuse not to toy around with my truck.

My only complaint about it is it burns a quart of oil every < 3,000 miles, and that's really not a big deal to me right now. I know I keep saying I like to do things myself, but I do go to Jiffy Lube to get my oil changes done. Mainly because in between oil changes, they top off fluids, do their routine inspections, top off my oil if it's low (up to two quarts). They do all of that for free. Being that I'm a full-time student majoring in engineering, I think it goes without saying I don't have a lot of free time. I used to love watching football and going to games when I lived in Baton Rouge, and I still like to do that up here in Kansas, but school has taken up so much of time, it's crazy.

Anyway, I'll be around most of the day. I'm going to wait until sundown and hope the forecasted rain holds off today. It's supposed to be a nice 63 degrees this evening, so I'll start checking everything out tonight. It's a hotbox right now in our garage, which is practically a shop in itself. The lighting is great, plus I've got some shop lights I can use to see everything.


By the way, I drove the truck this morning, and the problem seems to be improving. Very little sluggishness, if any at all. I have a very keen sense of detecting a problem, so I may be looking too deep into this, but nonetheless, it's a good idea to check everything out. After all, it is a used vehicle.

yayfortrees

IMHO, additives will never repair a problem. More often than not, they cause more problems than they are supposed to repair. There are times some might help, like using Sea-Foam to remove carbon deposits. But if carbon deposits aren't the problem, it's not going to fix anything, but it might just break something loose that then becomes a problem. Granted, this is all theoretical.

yayfortrees

Depending on what tools you have available, I would organize your punch list in a priority / easiest-to-do order. That might look something like:

1. Check ignition timing
2. Fix engine light
3. Check compression
4. Pull valve cover and subsequent checks
5. Check sensor resistances (all of them such as: TPS; AFM; O2 sensor; temp. sensor; etc.)
6. Check EGR

bdedon

I've never really been into additives either, but I'm trying to rectify the problem without costing me an arm and a leg right now. If it comes to the point where I have to come off the money, so be it. The guy I talked to is a friend of mine, and he said he uses it on just about everything. His boat, ATV, lawn mower, and truck.

I'll keep y'all updated.

I've got to say, for having 31" Goodyear Wrangler AT/S tires on this rig, it doesn't get bad gas mileage at all, and it's a relatively smooth ride. Now all I need is a stereo and two new speakers for the door.

bdedon

Thanks. I meant to ask what order to perform everything in.

Thanks for adding a few things in there to check, too.

Also, I need to replace the hose for my A/C because apparently there's a rather large hole in it. Please don't laugh, but I have never dealt with an A/C system in a vehicle before. Apparently this hose has been rubbing against an aluminum line, and... well... there's no stopping this "leak."

Where can I get this hose from for a good price? Once again, the tech tried to charge me $300+ to do this. I just shook my head and declined his offer.

In all honesty, that's the last time I go there for any automotive maintenance. One guy on the phone billed me for $503, but when I went in there, another guy at the desk billed me $662. So, we finally got it figured out, and I paid the $503.

yayfortrees

Keep in mind, that list is a recommendation of *possible* order. Things might change when you actually get in there and start doing things.

Do you have a picture of the A/C line? I might have one that I would let go for cheap.

PM sent.

JollyGreen

Mine was running horrible above 3000 RPM.
Tonight we pulled the cat and found huge chunks of converter blocking the exhaust.
Runs 100% better now.