4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Can test those parts and make sure they are adjusted and working properly:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Double D

So today I replaced the cold start injector as well as the fuel pressure regulator and still the same thing. I run for twenty to 30 seconds or so and then die. I still cannot touch the throttle during the running time or it dies instantly. I have not had an opportunity to pick up the fuel injectors I dropped off to have cleaned so I am at a stand still. I have removed the throttle body and pulled the injectors out so when the other set is ready, I can pop em in and go. From there, i'm guessing that it can only be the ECU which i'm still not real concerned about having to swap as these things are a dime a dozen compared to other makes and models. I will keep you guys posted on how things go. I may end up with a write up in fuel injector swaps due to the number of pictures I have on removal of the TB. I thank you guys again for your time and effort in helping me get this truck running.

Double D

Ok so I finally found some more time to work on this damn thing and I have it running but not very well. I had the fuel injectors cleaned that were in the truck and was told they were about 25% clogged up. After putting them in, the truck will fire up and run all day. If I slowly open the throttle, it will rev to redline and hold stable at any rpm I set it at. I have removed the catalytic converter. I can drive the truck around the block but its choppy as all hell and doesn't have much power as it did when i used the rag method. I pulled a spark plug and it was filthy so I bought new plugs and wires. Still the same issue. I have checked all the vaccum lines that they are connected correctly according the sticker under the hood.

My concerns about my own diagnostics are:
The parts I have are from an 86 turbo model so what is and isn't really compatible?
The AFM from the 86t is the only way the truck will run. The stock 88 one that was in it which is in cosmetically better condition will not allow it to run. Is this a problem that the AFM i'm using is from a turbo version of the same motor?
Same goes for the fuel pressure regulator. I have the one from the turbo truck in now.
I have switched the TPS back to the original one from the 88 as it seems to make no difference the have the turbo TPS in.
Is the o2 sensor just before the cat a possible factor here? (its filthy)

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if you have tested these various parts (AFM, TPS, etc.), but might be worth doing so and comparing the test results between the various working and non-working parts:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Double D

ok i'm going to perform those tests right now. Even if my AFM tests that its ok, is it still possible for it be causing an issue due being off of 22ret rather 22re or will the correct readings mean that it is working accordingly with the 22re? Thanks

Double D

so my AFM seems to be functioning properly according to the testing. Here are my test results:
e2 - vs-------- 20 - 400 (170)
e2 - vc-------- 100 - 300 (181)
e2 - vb-------- 200 - 400 (281)
e2 - tha------- 2k - 3k @68 deg f. (2.45k @exactly 68 deg f) im in tucson and that is the temp

e1 - fc ------------infinite / closed = infinite
------------zero / open = zero on the dot

e2 - vs -------------20 - 400 fully closed (160)
-------------20 - 1000 fully closed to fully open (550)

i'm going to buy another feeler gauge since I have no idea where mine is and ill be right back with test results on the tps.

Double D

For the TPS it says to adjust the set screw by backing it out, then turning it until it touches the throttle gear and then turn another 1/4 turn to allow the throttle to stay open just enough to prevent it from sticking. I did this step and then went on to TPS adjustment. I'm pretty sure this is the problem. Here are specs and then what I have:

with feeler gauge in between the gear and stop screw
.00mm vta - e2--------- 200 - 800 (780)
.57mm idl - e2----------- <2.3k (5140)
.85mm open -------------infinite (5120)
wide open vta - e2 -------3.3k - 10k (3900)
n/a vcc - e2 --------------3.0k - 7.0k (5880 open to close or n/a)

If i'm testing idl e2, i start at closed and gradually open it up all the way and I get a consistant drop but still nothing in the negative. I stop at about 1500 all the way open. Is that the problem with being able to gas it real quick and also the reason that it will run and I can raise the rpm but only slowly?

Double D

So after replacing the throttle position sensor, i tested properly as if it were set accordingly. I still had the same effect. I could start the truck, it would run and I could accelerate but only at a very slow rate. I decided at that point to check my ohm loads at the harness connected to the computer and they were fine. My conclusion, bad ECU. So I went down to First rock $x4 here in town who are widely known for being toyota specialists and talked to them about my situation. I was told that I could put the 22r-t computer from the 86 turbo and because the turbo is all mechanical it would still allow the truck to run being that they are both 4x4 and 5 spd models. I did this and now I can't gfet the truck to run again on either computer. WTF? I am throwing code 22 and that is coolant temp sensor. I checked the ohm load of it and it is fine. What could be my problem? Is it that the ECU is bad or am I looking in the wrong place.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

ECU compatibility info:
- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...&highlight=ecu

Turbo ECUs usually have some extra sensors AFAIK, one of those is an extra coolant temp sensor.

Double D

Ok well I am back to where I was before I put the other ecu in. I have the original ecu in from the 88 and again, the truck is running but it does not like to much throttle at once or it chokes out. I can get it to rev all the way again but it stills bogs down considerably when I give it to much. I checked the oxygen sensor and it reads 6 ohms at 68 degrees. So probably not the issue. My new spark plugs are properly gapped as well.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if you have checked the air intake for leaks, like small holes or cracks in the rubber bellows sections. Sometimes a small leak between the air flow meter and the throttle body can cause that sort of issue by letting in too much unmetered air.

Also, you need an analog volt meter to test the O2 sensor, it puts out a small voltage (0.2 volts up to about 1.0 volt) that oscillates back and forth as the O2 content in the exhaust changes while running. With engine hot @ 2500 RPM, you'll see something like 8 oscillations in about 10 seconds per the FSM test. A high end digital meter might pick up those quick voltage swings, but an inexpensive analog meter usually does fine.

Double D

I have not taken off the intake for full inspection so I will do this tomorrow when I get back to work on it before class. I do not have an analog volt meter for the O2 sensor but if it comes down to it, i will put up the money for one or depending on how much it is, just buy another O2 sensor for the piece of mind. I have read almost the entire FSM as well as all the info you have given me through links and much more. Whats i'm considering is another fuel filter as I was not able to fully clean out the tank but only drained it from the plug. I read a post where a guy with the same issues I had went through 4 filters before his truck ran properly. Also, the EGR and VSV may come into play here according to the FSM. I will be further inspecting those as well.

Now, a question that I have, that I can't seem to get an answer from the FSM on, is WTH is the spring loaded valve situation screwed into the intake manifold that has vaccum lines running to it? It has a plastic bolt that has a spring loaded around it and as far as I can tell, makes no difference in the performance of the vehicle no matter what position it is in. I have seen it pictured in the FSM but not described in any way shape or form. My 86 turbo does not have one of these, but just a plug in its place.

I hope that when this is all over, this thread will help someone else solve their problem with ease. And 4crawler, thanks again for your input. You are truely a contributing member to stay on top of this like you have.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the idle-up valve (for A/C and P/S):


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/7.html