marsstar102

I have a 93 pick up with the 3.slow. My valve cover gaskets are leaking I have replaced the gaskets twice and started leaking after about a month. So I tried removing the gaskets and using only fipg for the gasket. I started it up and it started leaking as soon as I shut the engine off. I have seen multiple threads on the leaking valve covers but I have not seen any solutions.

BMcEL

OEM gaskets, FIPG as shown below.

MudHippy

I don't believe there is an answer. But I have found a way to make them leak less on mine.

1. Using FIPG/RTV to "glue" the gaskets into the valve covers. And letting it set for a day before installing. I'd noticed mine were leaking quite a bit from "behind" the gaskets when I replaced them with new ones. Then just like yours, after about a month they were leaking just as bad as the ones that were on there since god knows when. So I gave "gluing" them into the covers a shot. So far neither one's leaked in that manner.

2. BIG beads of FIPG/RTV where prescribed.

Driver's side hasn't leaked a drop yet since I did that a few years ago. The other side leaks, but just barely. WAY LESS than it used to. It's leaking from one of the rear corners(where the FSM says to apply the FIPG/RTV...which I did).

sb5walker

I managed to stop mine from leaking for six years when I changed the head gaskets in '01. Before that the right one leaked a lot in the back, and now they're leaking again, quite a bit lately.

I used OEM gaskets and put a coating of Toyota Black Sealant around the cam plugs in the back, and in the places indicated in the fsm. And I used a thin coat of Toyota black on both sides of the valve cover gaskets - I think that is key. And let it set for a day before filling with oil and running the motor.

Using Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 may slow down the leak - it did wonders for my front and rear main seals. Worth a try, as soon as it gets a little warmer.

scope103

Obviously, you need the RTV or FIPG where the manual says (I prefer RTV to FIPG; I'm not as fast as a real mechanic and I prefer the greater "open" time).

What they don't tell you (but should be obvious) is that RTV will NOT stick to oil. You need to get the sealing surface clean enough to eat from, then put on the RTV. I replaced a gasket, had it leak, and the second time around I was much better about cleaning first. No leaks in 5 years.

marsstar102

Update;

The first two times I did my valve cover gaskets I used gaskets from carquest and put high temp black RTV only where the FSM shows. I did clean the area good the first time with paint thinner and the second time with brake cleaner. both times they started leaking after 2 weeks to a month.
The third time I tried listening to a Ford tech (worst choice ever) and got rid of the gaskets and used pure FIPG as the gasket. This started leaking right away and got worse fast. so bad my engine was smoking bad when on the freeway and at stop signs and red lights.
I just finished the fourth time using the suggestions above. first I took off the driver cover and found that I could not remove the FIPG without destroying the valve cover. So I got some valve covers from the junk yard. I cleaned every part very good with brake clean. I then placed a thin layer of High temp black RTV on the top of the gaskets then placed them in the valve cover then i placed a thin layer of RTV on the head wear it is in contact with the gasket. I then torqued the valve covers down. I am now going to wait 24+ hours to let the RTV dry before I start the engine and see if it leaks.

I will post an update in about a month if they are still not leaking and sooner if they start leaking.

Yotawitz

Hey marsstar102

good thread.....rebuilding a 89 3VZE and I'm at the valve covers, have been using the "right stuff" on most gaskets/surfaces and was thinking about lightly coating the valve cover gaskets..Can you please let me know how your "experiment " has gone?

Thanks

marsstar102

So far I have not noticed any leaks after this last time. I placed a thin layer of rtv on the top of the head surface and a thin layer on the grove part of the gasket. I didn't take the cam caps off. And then I let it sit for around 30 hours before starting the engine. Also if any rtv smears out of the side resist the urge to wipe it, it helps seal.

Yotawitz

Thanks for the update.

If you don't mind I'm going to borrow the 3.slow...not sure I should have rebuilt this one...lol

marsstar102

Ya use 3.slow all you want. If it was me I would have swapped either to the 22re or gone for a 350 small block. But I do suggest taking the cam caps off and siliconing them just for the insurance.

1990yotapickup

90 pickup with same problem back left corners of both valve covers ive tried everything it still leaks should i try tightening the bolts more? any help would be appreciated

scope103

Tightening the bolts more will just break them off. They're only 8mm. Then YOU can try getting a broken steel bolt out of an aluminum head.

If you'd tried everything then they wouldn't leak. It's leaking from the back corners because the RTV was not put in the right place, was not put in correctly, or it was put in on an oily surface. The surface has to be clean enough to eat from; paint thinner does the trick for me, but if you're having trouble you could go with brake cleaner.

Good luck!

marsstar102

You have to let the rtv sit long enough to fully dry if it is not the first bit of oil the touches it will loosen it up and make it leak.

oldblue

i used regular ass fel-pro gaskets from the parts store and black rtv a year ago and haven't seen a drop leak yet. i really see no difference or no need for spending extra money on parts from the dealer for this. do a good job cleaning all oil off the mating surfaces, and put rtv in the appropriate places and you won't have any issues. i also slapped some rtv on the cam covers and they're dry too, didn't bother to replace the o-rings.