22re timing chain question, yes another !!!
#21
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hey man, i have a similar problem. i was driving down the street and brought it to kinda high rmps (4200) and slowed down for the light. when it went green, i went to go and something happened....im not positive on what, but something. thre motor had a VERY loud knocking noise and made no power. i was very close to home so i limped it there. i have a sas'd 86 extra cab and its easy for me to drop the pan, soi did that today as well as pull the valve cover and have a look. everything looked ok, but when i turned the motor over by hand to get it to TDC, i noticed that the crank and cam marks didnt line up perfectly...i put the crank pulley mark to 0* and the cam mark was slightly to the left as well as the distributor not pointing right to 1. so i skipped a tooth, right? is there any way i didnt mess up my valves? how can i check without pulling the head? the motor has 6000kms and plastic guides
#24
Well like I said, she bought the truck just over 130,000km ago, it had a reman engine from Canada engines. The po put the new motor in and sold it. So I have a feeling it was a cheap motor. I never thought we would have timing chain issues at only 130,000km.
Like I said, I didnt have a chance to pull the valve cover today. I actually went and bought a factory roof rack to put on it, since we were planning on taking it on vacation in a week..... I guess not!!
Im not very experianced with 22re's. The biggest job I have done was a water pump, and I helped do the oil pump o-ring gasket, but I had a mech with me.
I can't pull the head or anything like that, I dont have the tools or nohow.
Im either going to try and replace it without removing the head or pan.
Try and track down my old mechanic friend
finally, take it to a stupid shop (It pains me to say this, it really does)
Anyway it goes down, I was going to order the engnbldr (I just emailed him about shipping actually..) timing kit w/ steel guide and timing chain cover.
Is that all I need??
I REALLY don't want to drive it anywhere, the last thing I want is the chain snapping or skipping a tooth and sending the valves into the pistons.
It feels a little slower, so i guess the chain has streched
Like I said, I didnt have a chance to pull the valve cover today. I actually went and bought a factory roof rack to put on it, since we were planning on taking it on vacation in a week..... I guess not!!
Im not very experianced with 22re's. The biggest job I have done was a water pump, and I helped do the oil pump o-ring gasket, but I had a mech with me.
I can't pull the head or anything like that, I dont have the tools or nohow.
Im either going to try and replace it without removing the head or pan.
Try and track down my old mechanic friend
finally, take it to a stupid shop (It pains me to say this, it really does)
Anyway it goes down, I was going to order the engnbldr (I just emailed him about shipping actually..) timing kit w/ steel guide and timing chain cover.
Is that all I need??
I REALLY don't want to drive it anywhere, the last thing I want is the chain snapping or skipping a tooth and sending the valves into the pistons.
It feels a little slower, so i guess the chain has streched
22re.com and yes they ship postal to canada
#25
use a small dab of "right stuff" by permatex where the cover and block meet, then lay head gasket down and press lightly w/ fingers to press out excess, wipe away all excess from outside and inside head area.
#26
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Ive pulled the pan, and left the HG on. No leaks yet, just gotta put some rtv ontop of the timing chain cover where it seats to the hg.
Other than that, pull it off slowly
Other than that, pull it off slowly
#27
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So I got started on it today.
Dropped the diff (left the cv's bolted), pulled the pan and oil pickup
Removed everything down to the chain. Tomorrow im gonna put it back together. took like 6 hours, working at a slow pace.. Lots of people in the shop today!
Turns out the entire drivers side guide broke off (where the chain hits the guide). Pulled three big peices and a handfull of small chunks from the bottom of the pan. Nasty!!!
So I got the engnbldr kit all ready to go, new timing cover has all the old hardware in it so I dont forget where they go.
Went to take off the cover, and forgot about the stupid hidden bolt. I had two writeups and my FSM on the bench and I still forgot it haha!! Cover came out pretty easily, the exposed headgasket is in perfect shape.
the cam mark didnt quite line up perfect to 12 oclock, but I chocked that up to a streched chain...
I will upload pictures tomorrow after I get home. Going back to the shop early, perhaps do the wheel bearings and tighten the rear diff while I have it.
On a side note, looks like the rear main might be leaking... AGH!!! does it ever end?
Dropped the diff (left the cv's bolted), pulled the pan and oil pickup
Removed everything down to the chain. Tomorrow im gonna put it back together. took like 6 hours, working at a slow pace.. Lots of people in the shop today!
Turns out the entire drivers side guide broke off (where the chain hits the guide). Pulled three big peices and a handfull of small chunks from the bottom of the pan. Nasty!!!
So I got the engnbldr kit all ready to go, new timing cover has all the old hardware in it so I dont forget where they go.
Went to take off the cover, and forgot about the stupid hidden bolt. I had two writeups and my FSM on the bench and I still forgot it haha!! Cover came out pretty easily, the exposed headgasket is in perfect shape.
the cam mark didnt quite line up perfect to 12 oclock, but I chocked that up to a streched chain...
I will upload pictures tomorrow after I get home. Going back to the shop early, perhaps do the wheel bearings and tighten the rear diff while I have it.
On a side note, looks like the rear main might be leaking... AGH!!! does it ever end?
#28
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Oh my god its done.... OVer 10 hours spent wrenching today whew!
Got everything together the first time and then when I started to fill it with coolant the driverss side water output tube just poured water out. So I removed everything down to the waterpump and such. Fixed the leak and managed to put it all back together.
After rotating the engine 180 degrees the timing marks were perfect. It runs, no leaks at all.
I have only one question. Now there is what sounds like a slight gear whine. Im hoping this is just because of all the new parts in there... thoughts?? Other then that, its smooooooooooth
Got everything together the first time and then when I started to fill it with coolant the driverss side water output tube just poured water out. So I removed everything down to the waterpump and such. Fixed the leak and managed to put it all back together.
After rotating the engine 180 degrees the timing marks were perfect. It runs, no leaks at all.
I have only one question. Now there is what sounds like a slight gear whine. Im hoping this is just because of all the new parts in there... thoughts?? Other then that, its smooooooooooth
#30
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hmm, I actually did do the power steering belt pretty tight..... I will defantly loosen that badboy off a little tomorrow, thanks for the tip
Im am so damn sore!!
Im am so damn sore!!
#31
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Drove it for about 10 mins after it was fully warmed, no leaks!! I guess I did it right!
so I used the full engbldr kit w/ new cover, got new valve cover grommits (1 didnt fit oddly enough) and valve cover gasket.
Im super peranoid about it right now though... Im hoping there wont be any wet spots under it when I go outside in the morning. Cross your fingers!!!
#32
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Loosend the power steering belt and its all good.
Drove it for about an hour and a half. Sounded good, good oil pressure, good temp. I think we are golden
THere is only one problem. There is a chatter under hard load. Think I just tightend the valve cover too tight? I tried to torque to spec but I was using new rubber grommit things... Sounds like the valves are out of adjustment..
Anyone doing the job, don't put the oil pump drive in untill after you put your timing cover on. I nearly wrecked the headgasket trying to wedge it in. Talk about a blonde moment. Funny part was the FSM told me to, HA!
Drove it for about an hour and a half. Sounded good, good oil pressure, good temp. I think we are golden
THere is only one problem. There is a chatter under hard load. Think I just tightend the valve cover too tight? I tried to torque to spec but I was using new rubber grommit things... Sounds like the valves are out of adjustment..
Anyone doing the job, don't put the oil pump drive in untill after you put your timing cover on. I nearly wrecked the headgasket trying to wedge it in. Talk about a blonde moment. Funny part was the FSM told me to, HA!
Last edited by Jay351; 07-10-2009 at 08:31 PM.
#33
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So I loosend the valve cover, torqued it to 40 in.lbs (about 12 in.lbs lower then the fsm says to, feels really tight). Went for a drive and its still there.
Going up a hill, low rpm and full throttle yeilds the noise the loudest. Its almost like a bad timing chain or exhaust noise. Very hard to explain.
The valves havnt been adjusted for over 40,000k so I plan on doing that next week.
However I dont think its the valves, why would it only do it under load?
I will mention that the exhaust 2-1 manifold is not bolted to the transmission anymore, it somehow lost both mounting bolts.
Its resting against the bellhousing, so I want to say that thing is the problem. The more the motor shakes (under load) the more it taps against the bellhousing..
I feel confident I didnt mess anything up during the timing chain replacment. MY girl tells me she used to hear the noise before, but not as loud. It used to just come and go though (still only under load).
Ideas?
What size bolts attach the manifold to the bellhousing?? I need to get some.
Going up a hill, low rpm and full throttle yeilds the noise the loudest. Its almost like a bad timing chain or exhaust noise. Very hard to explain.
The valves havnt been adjusted for over 40,000k so I plan on doing that next week.
However I dont think its the valves, why would it only do it under load?
I will mention that the exhaust 2-1 manifold is not bolted to the transmission anymore, it somehow lost both mounting bolts.
Its resting against the bellhousing, so I want to say that thing is the problem. The more the motor shakes (under load) the more it taps against the bellhousing..
I feel confident I didnt mess anything up during the timing chain replacment. MY girl tells me she used to hear the noise before, but not as loud. It used to just come and go though (still only under load).
Ideas?
What size bolts attach the manifold to the bellhousing?? I need to get some.
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