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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 93
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22re - head gasket leak w/ no water/oil mix??
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Don't believe everything you hear. You can have a HG leak without water in the oil or vice versa.
In your case, you probably blew at the border of one (or more) of the cylinders. You're leaking water into the cylinder when the truck is off and there is pressure in the cooling system. A leak down test will show this as bubbles in the cooling system.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 835
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The gasket can let go and allow water to blow out the exhaust and not get in the oil. Take the spark plugs out and shoot some air in each hole, water will probably spray out of one hole. Broken ceramic on a spark plug is a sign of water too.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 93
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thanks, that picture explains alot
now i have another quick question a friend suggested we try simply re-torqueing the head. he said he has solved a minor head gasket leak that way, even if only temporarily, and its worth a try considering the work involved in doing the gasket good or bad idea? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 22
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Once owned an Isuzu which had a slight coolant leak into the cylinder. Does the truck consume coolant, or oil. The white smoke COULD also be oil dripping past your valve guide seals when parking the truck.
Either way, I'd recommend fixing it properly the FIRST time, and be done with it. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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There's no harm in retorquing the gasket, but I'd suggest that you determine which cylinder(s) are leaking via leak down or pressurizing the cylinder.
Then you can retorque the head and retest. It's unlikely that retorque will resolve this issue.. The HG is one of the weaknesses on this motor. Do *not* overtorque the bolts. Trust me. You can strip the block. Assuming your mating surfaces are in good shape, the "upgrade" is ARP studs and a MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket if your block is decked fine enough to make use of it. MLS gaskets don't need to be replaced, you can just retorque them if you do things like a cam change.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 644
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Quote:
I swapped out t-stat, radiator cap, hoses, etc trying to determine where the coolant was disappearing to. I even swapped in a new radiator, as mine was pretty beat. Things got worse and worse, and I developed the steam problem out of the exhaust and my junk overheated a couple of times. When I pulled it apart it didn't look much worse than the picture above. But the overheating had warped the head. Look at my #4 cyl. You can see how the coolant was leaking over the piston and "cleaning" it. ![]() I just got everything put back together and fired it up. Runs good. I used the kit from www.engnbldr.com.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Bingo.. that clean cylinder is a tell-tail sign of a water leak into the cylinder.
Everyone is amazed that seafoam cleans carbon off those pistons... Water will do the same thing! Your head should be checked - you typically can't see the warp!
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