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22re engine fail SOS

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Old 07-31-2014, 01:16 PM
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22re engine fail SOS

So my 22re died, and I need some help figuring out what could be wrong.
Oil pressure went WAY down. No oil on dip stick. How ever I just did an oil change and filter change a few months ago with the correct oil and filter. I have no black smoke, and I can't find any leaks big enough to make any sense. I didn't just magically loose all the oil in the engine, so where did it go?
I'm getting it towed home. I'd like to get some ideas on what is wrong before I add more oil, and/or start taking things apart.
Sad thing is I know I must have driven this 22re for quite some time with almost no oil at all. I'm such an a**
Any help?
Thanks guys
Old 07-31-2014, 01:16 PM
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More info. It's an '86 22re 4x4 5 speed.
Old 07-31-2014, 01:18 PM
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Did it lock up and quit running? Add the correct oil and fire it up
Old 07-31-2014, 01:29 PM
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I was on the way to my moms house and it lost power and made a loud metal hammering noise above 2k revs. Never quit running. I can still start it and it idles.
I think I'm going to check the plugs for oil, and take the oil pan off an check the pump before I add anymore oil. I'd like to know where it's going and why.
Old 07-31-2014, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonYota
Did it lock up and quit running? Add the correct oil and fire it up
X2 Fill the oil and see how she runs. Dropping the pan now won't tell you anything important.

Your engine is either already near death, or, just maybe, it will run some more miles if you keep it filled with oil.

An oil change a 'few months ago' is a long time to go without checking under the hood.
Old iron should have fluid check every day before operation.
Once you get comfortable with how your truck acts, once a week might be enough, but a few months, sheesh!!

Last edited by millball; 07-31-2014 at 01:46 PM.
Old 07-31-2014, 01:45 PM
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If it's knocking the damage is already done
Old 07-31-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
X2 Fill the oil and see how she runs. Dropping the pan now won't tell you anything important.

Your engine is either already near death, or, just maybe, it will run some more miles if you keep it filled with oil.

An oil change a 'few months ago' is a long time to go without checking under the hood.
Old iron should have fluid check every day before operation.
Once you get comfortable with how your truck acts, once a week might be enough, but a few months, sheesh!!
Yeah probably should have checked more often. How ever in my defense, I have only ever owned 70's and 80's cars and have never checked my oil even weekly. Never had oil problems. My other car is a 1984 BMW 325e with a leaky engine and I check it every two months and throw in maybe one quart at most. My 22re looks clean all the time and I had never noticed any black smoke so I assumed she was doing well. My bad. lesson learned I guess.

Originally Posted by JasonYota
If it's knocking the damage is already done
Thats what I am thinking. Probably burned out and/or rotated some bearings or something. POOP!
Old 07-31-2014, 02:41 PM
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I worked in mining and other industries most of my life, and I got the habit of checking my machines every day, as a mater of safety, if nothing else.
At work, it was a fireing offence to do otherwise.
Old 07-31-2014, 02:42 PM
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Id still like to know where the oil went. I park in the same spot every day and there is no stain. Block looks clean. I still dont think all the oil burned off in two months, especially sins I drive my BMW part of the time.
Old 07-31-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
I worked in mining and other industries most of my life, and I got the habit of checking my machines every day, as a mater of safety, if nothing else.
At work, it was a fireing offence to do otherwise.
After this I will most definitely start checking more often
Old 07-31-2014, 03:31 PM
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Its possible it went that fast. My old 87 would burn a quart every 400 miles through the valve seals. It was bad.

The oil doesn't have to leak out, it could have burned out. Could be a number of internal causes. Bad rings, valves, seals... etc. Did the low oil light come on?

I would start with a compression test, that will tell you what shape your cylinders are in. You should be able to rent a compression tester from most chain auto parts stores. Pull your spark plugs, see what they look like.

Dropping the oil pan is no small task, you either need to drop the front diff, or lift up the engine.
Old 07-31-2014, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Its possible it went that fast. My old 87 would burn a quart every 400 miles through the valve seals. It was bad.

The oil doesn't have to leak out, it could have burned out. Could be a number of internal causes. Bad rings, valves, seals... etc. Did the low oil light come on?

I would start with a compression test, that will tell you what shape your cylinders are in. You should be able to rent a compression tester from most chain auto parts stores. Pull your spark plugs, see what they look like.

Dropping the oil pan is no small task, you either need to drop the front diff, or lift up the engine.
Luckily I already own a compression test kit. I guess Ill test the cylinders and see what they are like.
I just added 4.5 quarts of oil and it idles a bit bumpy and still has that ugly metal hammering sound. I think this engine is done. I killed it
I dont have my own garage/work space right now so this is going to hit my wallet hard. I guess I deserve it though.
Old 07-31-2014, 03:49 PM
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If the rod bearings are knocking, it's a waste of time to do the compression test.
You are going to have to do a comprehensive rebuild, or get another engine.
Old 07-31-2014, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
If the rod bearings are knocking, it's a waste of time to do the compression test.
You are going to have to do a comprehensive rebuild, or get another engine.
Im going to take it in to my trusted local mechanic on Monday and have him look at it and give me some estimates. If Im looking at a new/rebuilt motor I might consider a swap of some kind depending on price differences. Looks like rebuilt 22re engines cost about as much as 1uz sc4000 engines do. If Im going to spend my money I want to get rid of this 4 banger. But I am jumping to conclusions a bit here.
Old 07-31-2014, 10:22 PM
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Red face

I hope you learned a lesson.
The oil pump is bolted to the timing cover it is not mounted to the block
Old 08-01-2014, 04:44 AM
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Ouch...you *Added* 4.5 quarts. You just did an oil change. Only two possible scenarios. It leaked or it burned.

It may not have had a leak but something catastrophic could have gone wrong on the way to your mothers house. A seal could have failed massively somewhere or a rot hole could have finally let go on the oil pan somewhere. Or maybe your oil plug was really loose.

If you burned 4.5qts of oil it would have been running like a pig and the plugs would look like chunks of greasy coal. I'd expect your tailpipe to look not only sooty but slimey. The rear bumper and tailgate would probably look sooty as well like an 80's VW TDI.

Also next time, for future reference....you stated that you didn't have any oil on the dipstick and had it towed. Then you said it still started and idled fine once it was towed to its destination. THEN you said you added oil. Add the oil first next time before you start it to see if it still runs.

It sounds like a rebuild is in order. For the sake of good science take a look underneath and either find the leak or find out how it was burning the oil.
Old 08-01-2014, 04:47 AM
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an engine swap is one idea, but even if you can get a Lexus V8 for the same price as a rebuilt 22re, you need to think about all the wiring and plumbing that can make the job a lot more intense ( and expensive if you don't do the work) not to mention much more down time.
Old 08-01-2014, 05:10 AM
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Yep, the engine may cost the same.....but figuring out the exhaust, motor mounts, installing a new transmission and transfer case designed for the V8, bigger cooling system, wiring harnesses, and getting the guages to work can easily make a motor swap 5-10X the cost of just putting a junkyard engine in.
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