Robert m

iTrader: (2)

Just curious, how do the E3s work for you? Ive never known anyone who has used them in anything other then in lawn equipment.

Cookie Monster

These plugs were in the engine when i got it, pulled them all out before starting it for the first time and they looked fine so i never bothered to change them... They make sparks so i cant complain i guess I wouldnt ever put money out for premium plugs, i have run ac delco's in all my yotas, price is right, and ive yet to have one fail so... These plugs look pretty fancy, and cool... But i dont know that they really make any difference over your regular plugs... Anyone else can chime in if they have had a different experience.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

I dont personally believe they will do anything for these engines. I like my NGKs but Id be open to hear opinions about the E3s if others have tried them.
After trying the +4 bosch plugs (when they first came out) on a different car of mine, I will never use a fancy plug like that again. They worked good for about 100 miles and then it started misfiring and running like crap. Eventually, I pulled the plugs and put in regular densos and it was curred 100%.

Badger62811

I only run NGK in my Yotas. Including wires. I'm only running whatever is in my truck because it's been going strong and haven't had to replace them. That being said, I pulled the wires off a few weeks back and broke one. Is there a trick to pulling the wires??

Odin

There's no "Trick" but there are a couple rules to follow.

1. ALWAYS apply Dielectric grease to the portion of the boot that surrounds the spark plug porcelain or they can become somewhat bonded to the plug making it a real pain to remove.

Applying dielectric grease one time won't fix all your problems, it can dry up a bit in that heated area. From time to time I'll check to make sure I can still turn the boot on the spark plug. If it's being difficult I reapply dielectric grease to keep that area problem free. If I have to do a plug check, I reapply the dielectric grease.


2. Never pull directly pull on top of the boot or the the wire portion! Always pull from the middle of the boot to ensure you're not stressing the wire.
Once the rubber portion of the boot is cut away in the video below you can clearly see where not to pull.

One thing I like to do is give the boot a twist before I apply any upward pressure and look at the bottom of the boot to see if it's moving or not. If it doesn't move then the boot is somewhat stuck there and care must be taken when removing the wire or there's a good possibility you'll break the wire.

aztoyman

What Odin said. As far as plugs.........I run Denso or NGK like Toyota puts in. I also prefer factory or NGK wires. The factory put NGK on one side and Denso on the other side of two Yota's I have with the 4.0 V6.

lonfu

Inherited my 2nd toy 85 carb 4x4 pickup from father in law. He was a great mechanic. After his first stroke he decided to replace the broke timing chain guides, chain, and timing chain housing. When he couldn't get the housing back on under the head he lifted the head with an engine hoist, intake and exhaust still attached, then reinstalled and reset the head using the original head gasket. Amazing, it worked! no leaks and now that I have finished the job with a new distributor and carb it runs like it was brand new. He told me that during the war a lot of time you just couldn't get a new head gasket so he had reused them many times, the trick is to re-torq twice and add 5 lbs to the specs each time you re use it. When I re-torqed the head, I found that he had torqed it to 30 lbs. Yeah, I know!!! but got to remember that he had a stroke. When I looked at the cheezy hanes manual, the valve cover torq specs are listed directly below a pix of the head bolt tightening order. So, I brought them up to 65 ftlbs and now have perfect compression and like I said, it runs like a cop at a donut shop!

lonfu

Guess I've been doing this all wrong for the last 40 years or so. Always turn your boots before you pull. use a bent screwdriver to pull at the base or bottom of the boot while pulling from the top. Not the wire dummy! Don't touch the wire! If they are so glued/stuck on then don't waste your time dinking with them, just cut them off and get a new set!

And use your little pinky to put the dielectric grease in the boot, you know the one! It is the one that you use to get those pesky nose nuggets out with! I don't use cotton swabs to go nugget mining

Cookie Monster

So back on track, i have been busy working on another yota that i recently procured. Gotta get it ready for inspection...

I picked up a felpro intake manifold gasket so i could try and undo my rtv sealant hackjob and inspect the manifold chambers for any unusually clean spots... in hopes i could "spot something obvious"

After removing the intake manifold, and spending a solid hour and a half scraping, and scothbrighting all the rtv off my parts i was finally ready to put the new gasket in.

I did notice the cylinder 3&4 intake chambers were a little cleaner than the rest... As suspected there was some rtv squished into the water channels in the manifold which could cause a restriction in the flow... Dunno if that is relevant to it "disappearing" though.

Bolted it all back together with proper a proper gasket this time, but ran out of daylight, so i will get back after it tomorrow morning and fill it with coolant, see if it continues to burn coolant after burping it a few times.

Odin

You've either got one heck of a thin pinky or you've got one highly fashionable fingernail lol

lonfu

Ok, so on my rhino I use a small screw driver, but on the toy 4x4 my pinky works just fine. If you can fit it in your nose you should be able to fit it in your spark plug boot! That said, you must have one of those mit sized hands

If you mix the 2, you end up with finger rust spots on the steel parts from the salt in hour boogers AND..... it it burns like H when you get engine oil in your snoot

Cookie Monster

/End hijack

Cookie Monster

So i got the coolant topped up, and everything checked over and fired it up, no external leaks, i started and ran it with the rad cap off for a while, then topped up from the top fill cap.

After the top up and whatnot I took it out on the hwy and it hit ~105 degress c on the initial warmup, but quickly dropped down to the 90 mark and seemed to run at the normal operating temperature for the quick trip. I parked it and let it run in the driveway for another 45 mins or so..

Going to let it cool down and go pop the rad cap to see how low i am. I expect to be a little bit low from the last little air bubbles in the system, but that length of running would have burnt a quart of coolant before so we shall see in a couple hours

Cookie Monster

Well, it would appear as though that wasnt the problem... Same ammount of coolant loss as before.

After getting frustrated and walking away for a little while i decided i would get my friend to sit in the truck with the throttle held at around 2500rpm and take a good look around the engine.... Then i saw it.

A small drip coming from the egr crossover plate on the very back of the cylinder head.... It would run onto the heater hose just below the crossover plate, and then onto the bellhousing, which would hold a small pool of coolant, causing it to not drip to the ground...

It would appear as though while removing all the emissions stuff i neglected to replace the bolt holding the old hose to the back of the head... Which over time caused the gasket to leak a bit...

Ive since replaced the missing bolt (Thank god for the body lift... Dont think i would have been able to fit much in there without those extra couple inches) and filled it back up again, its running out in the driveway as i type... I would feel pretty silly if thats all it was this whole time.... And thankful that i didnt pull the motor and do the HG right away...

Will update later.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is a difficult bolt to get to. I have to access it from the passenger fender with alot of stretching. I think the head gasket will be alright.

Cookie Monster

Well... From the initial test... The one missing bolt seems to have been the problem...

Sneaky Bolt.

I checked the coolant level after it had run in the driveway for about an hour, ran it at 2500 rpm for a while too, no signs of anything close to overheating. Let it cool... and BAM coolant was still full, i havnt done a test drive on the highway yet, but i think this may have the problem fixed.

On the bright side, i have done a pretty thorough check to verify the head gasket is still intact after the sketchy cam install haha.