Red Wagon

Great news, thanks again. I'll post how I go. I'll get into it on Monday with a friend who is really good at this stuff.

Glad I didn't take any money when he needed to use my garage to fix someones clutch as a side job.

twitchee2

So i fixed it, but that truck is such a pos lol. hacked together everyone and i sure didnt help but it works now. turns out the relay is fine, there was no power going to the relay or solenoid. i ran my own power. put it on a switch and it works now. too bad his cv's are shot and sounds like they are gonna break. thats next up for him but for now it works

Red Wagon

Hi guys I'm just about to do my first mod and as I'm not very savvy in the vehicle repair department yet I thought I'd check in here first.

I have a 92 4Runner 3.0 V6. I bought it with a 3 inch body lift and right away had a lot of work done to ensure it was reliable for my long drive to Yellowknife. New timing belt etc for the engine and new shocks and coils.

Along with the shocks and coils which I did at T&S Suspension in Langley I got him to instal manual Aisin hubs. He ensured I got all good stuff and was very honest with me talking me out of a lift kit and that I should get an American truck with no rust if I really love my 4Runner after I figure out what kind of wheeling I want to do. He said he'd do the work but I really should figure out what I want to do with the truck first suggesting an SAS conversion if I was going to be serious. I'm still not sure on that but....

Anyway to my point.

Twice in the past six months my ADD system has crapped out on me. When I put it in 4H I can hear a click from a switch but the light does not come on and I stay in 2WD. From what I've been reading two switches need to engage for the light to come on. One in the transfer case and one in the actuator when the fork slides over.

I think I get the principle of it all but have some questions. When I eliminate the actuator as a future cause of hassle what exactly happens? I understand that I slde the fork over and weld or clamp it but does this mean that everything up front is till moving when in 2WD? If I leave my hubs locked will power still be heading to my front wheels? I'm concerned that there is a potential big downside to this elimination and want to be sure before I go in there with a clamp and vacuume caps.

Is there anything I should watch out for when doing this job? Also is this clamp I just bought good for the job?




I'm into this truck enough now that I don't ever want to sell it and instead do a complete tear down and rebuild with many of the options I've read about in here when I've been lurking.

I figure if I'm going to keep going I should take it apart and get rid of all the rust and clean up the frame and inspect it but that's for later.


Thanks in advance.


Excuse this being a double post, looks like it's getting missed in the sticky.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

If you either lock the ADD in or replace the ADD bits with a non-ADD axle (much simpler piece), you'll have 2WD when the hubs are unlocked and with the hubs locked, you'll have 2WD in 2H and 4WD in 4H and 4L.

justin_4runner

ok if u are going to do this make sure u have hubs u can unlock.... other wise if u don't then it will always spin the diff,even in 2wd,as for power going to the diff from the transfer case i dont think will happen, just as the tires turn it will spin the diff, as for just moving it over and clamping it off i have not read on that but i would just run a vacuum line down to it that will keep it in engaged.

90_4x4

My 4wd wasn't working on my 4runner and I wantnt getting vacuum at the diff so i looked around online until I found a vacuum diagram, unplugged all vacuum lines coming off intake manifold and re plugged then back in via correct vacuum diagram and now my truck runs way better and 4wd works now!!! This link fixed a lot of my problems!!!!


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...m-hoses-87552/

Red Wagon

That's also an idea but wouldn't there still be the possibility of failure if the vacuum system breaks down?

Not trying to sound like I'm flogging a dead horse I just want to make sure I understand what I'm getting in to.


I have Aisin manual hubs already installed.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Just running vacuum to the lock side of the actuator will keep it engaged any time the engine is running. Since most of the "failures" have to do with the electrical stuff (switches, VSVs, etc.) a direct vacuum line from the intake to the actuator bypasses all of that. Yes, the vacuum line can break or get knocked loose, but this would be a quick way to effect ADD bypass.

Locking the actuator with a hose clamp will eliminate even the vacuum line.

And replacing all the ADD axle parts with parts from a non-ADD vehicle will eliminate all the ADD hardware and leave you the simpler, stronger and more reliable non-ADD front end.

All 3 options do the same thing (leave the front axle engaged at all times), just depends on how much work you want to do and how much you want to simplify the system. And you could try doing the mod. in steps, first try the vacuum line direct to the axle actuator. If it works and seems to be reliable for you, then call it good. If that does not work well, then open up the actuator and put on the hose clamp. And if that does not work, swap out the ADD parts.

Red Wagon

Okay so for the hose option which is a quick easy fix I have only the hose connected on the driver side then cap off the other and then I'm done right?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like what you would want to do. Not sure which side of the actuator is the "engage" side, but that is the one to connect a vacuum line to. Probably a good idea to cap the other fitting to keep dirt and water out of it. Probably cap it after you engage the actuator so that it can fill with air and not pull a vacuum inside.

muddy chevota

if it screws up in the winter and freezing conditions i would say WATER in the system from 4x4ing that froze had that onea few times and i FULLY AGREE MANUEL HUBS BYPASS that crap setup better fuel economy and less wear and tear on front end, i dunno if you can do it on a toyota front diff but on ym dodge i welded one side of that's sleeve that goes over the shafts, only one side so it still has play back and forth and so it can still be pulled out the end of the axle tube, then i plugged the vaccum lines WAY back and made a cover plate for the diff, nothing is better than twist twist CLUNK for 4x4

Red Wagon

I would say there is water in there. I managed to get water in the fuel system this summer as well. Stuck in a peat bog for a few hours will do that I suppose. That's when I broke the ADD the first time.

Now that it's often -20C or lower I imagine it's got a block of ice in there somewhere. Sounds like getting in there with a clamp might be the best bet and I can drain the diff and ensure there is no water in there.

Thanks again everyone I think I'll go the elimination route.

3blowrunner