iamsuperbleeder

just a little FYI, you only need to upgrade your wiring if you're actually going to be pulling more than the factory amperage. just because the alt is rated for 140 amps, that doesn't mean that's what it's ALWAYS putting out. that's the reason for the regulator keeps all that extra charge from constantly dumping into the battery and electrical system when it's not needed. if you just have fog lights installed, no big deal; a stock alt can handle that little extra load. but if you upgraded alt power because you run a winch, and air compressor, and 20 extra off road lights, then yeah you're going to be pulling more than 60 amps, lol

MortonPhotographic

Here is a link I found on converting to a Chevy alternator:

http://www.nwtoys.com/content/144-ch...-swap-22r.html

And a link to the Chevy altnernator bracket for a 22RE:

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...8-C640863FB1C9

Although I am a big believer in "Excess is best", 2 awg wire is pretty overboard. Wire guage is related to amperage as well as length of the run. Check out the chart and you will see what I mean. Oh, and 2 awg us a pain to work with as you need really specific connecters.

I tend to use 4 awg a lot even though it is also excessive in most cases, but I tend to have a bunch of it and it is not too hard to work with.

Check out the chart: http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm

And here is some more info and another chart that might help: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...e_Speaker-Wire

navig8r2003

I was wondering if I should swapped out my stock alt.(93 Toyota pickup) for a high output 140 amp or so (meaning swapping the BIG 3) to charge my 4 deep cycle batteries in my camping trailer. I can charge with shore power or gen but no way to charge while driving. I run my fridge and a few other things while driving and it does pull the batteries down. I just don't like starting off dry camping with under charged batteries and I hate using the gen unless I have to. All wiring will be upgraded to proper gauge and fused.

Thanks for any help
navig8r2003

shaeff

While the above is an old post, I thought it would be wise to point out that this is one place you do NOT want to solder. A PROPER crimp connection, covered by adhesive lined shrink wrap will last longer, and be a better bond than solder.

Ask yourself this question: Does copper conduct better than whatever percentage of tin and other metals is in solder? (If your answer was YES, then you're on the right track.)

Crimp battery connections, folks. No solder.
Sounds like you've got a neat little setup. For someone like you, I'd recommend a GM alternator retrofit with higher than stock amperage so you can charge-on-the-go. Trying to charge that many batteries at a time with the fridge running will likely make a short life for the stock alternator.

navig8r2003

Thanks shaeff for the info.
I like the idea of refitting a GM alt. What amps would you refit to? What would be the advantage of the GM refit vs. a Power Master 150 amp alt. fit for my truck? Upgrade all wiring of course.

Thanks much shaeff
navig8r2003

shaeff

No problem! I'd try to add up all the amperage your accessories will draw, or at least all the accessories that you'll be using at the same time and figure out what size alt you need from there. The advantage of a GM retrofit is that they're very easy to come by, and tend to be significantly cheaper than getting a rewound unit made specifically for your vehicle.

Also, as noted earlier in the thread, the GM units have better cooling so the possibility of overheating it is reduced.

The side benefit is that if you're away from home on a camping trip, and your alternator dies, pretty much any run-of-the-mill parts store will have the replacement GM alt in the amperage output that you need, whereas a rewound Toyota alt won't be found at any of those places. That's why I prefer a retrofit over rewound- ease of replacement with minimal downtime and they're easy to find.

Zelephant

This. Does an MR2 alt overheat, drain the battery at idle, or cause other problems? The 100 amp models can be had for about $100 IIRC and can bolt right in, no special bracket needed. And you get to keep domestic junk off your rig!

navig8r2003

Thanks again shaeff. Just to clarify, by refit, you do not mean rewind, right, you mean brackets and such to bolt it into the 1993 pickup.

If so, what about the idea of extending a 4 ga. cable from the isolator, which is wired to the stock 60 amp, to the four (4) deep cycle batteries just for the purpose of keeping them topped off and fully charged while driving. This setup would never be used to charge a dead or close battery just to maintain the batteries until arrival at camp by the end of the day. Some trips are 6 hours. I would upgrade all wires. Do you think that would be too much for the 60 amp. I am, as we all are these days, on a serious budget and if this would work it would save me mucho $$$ as some of these alts are $300, $400, $500. The $ is a very good reason to go with a GM alt too, eh.

Thanks much shaeff

navig8r2003

navig8r2003

Hi shaeff...I just happen to have a fairly new 100 amp GM 12si alt. I had belted to a 5 hp Honda horizontal shaft motor and used to charge my batteries at camp. That should work, correct? Any suggesions on where to go to find instructions on refitting the brackets to mount it in my Toyota pu?

As usual, thanks much shaeff for your input...or output...lol

David