paint or powder coat? Knuckle/hub rebuild
#45
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Location: UK and Gulf Shores, AL
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#47
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Location: Longmont Colorado
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I applied it exactly how the instructions said. i used the marine clean and the filler for the pinholes and some other stuff(brain fart) and my air pen with 160psi blew it off in sheets trying to dust it off. Chassis saver cost more cause it was in the bay and they say to media blast it first... getting ready to paint i went to dust it and same thing happened. I was grinding and sanding for 3 days to get the bay back down to metal so i could paint it. So blasting,time sanding, Product and then the etch primer and filler/seam sealer again to put the bay back to sprayable condition i could have been done a month faster and saved a ton of money.
#48
Registered User
Rustoleum here. I considered the other products for-mentioned. Even when I did a frame swap/frame restoration on my rig 3 years ago I looked into all of the options. Bottom line Rustoleum is the absolute ubeaten rivel in cost:performance ratio. It too, like the others when applied properly hold up like a mother! =) They ALL scratch and ding..
Remember ultimately a rock is going to gouge metal regardless of what you coated it with. And that leaves bare metal, and metal rusts. So our turds all look the same at the end of the day =)
I've noticed Rustoleum is far more forgiving to a dirty surface to so makes cleaning the parts a lot less tedious.
I used a primer on everything then topcoated several coats with semi-gloss black.
When I SAS'd I didn't have the luxury of time, space, a shop or a welder at home so I had to plan accordingly to weld on all my gussets and parts. To properly coat the axle, you really need to coat the bare axle before putting on that upper gusset, then grind off the coating where you'll be welding.. then give the whole beast another coat when it's all assembled. Thats what I did, you can make out where the paints been grinded down here.
BESIDES.... they all look used and abused after its been wheeling! Ha my axle is dingy and scraped to hell now and its only been 4 months =) .. if i cared? I'd 3M the dings and scrapes and spray on some Rustoleum!! haha
Remember ultimately a rock is going to gouge metal regardless of what you coated it with. And that leaves bare metal, and metal rusts. So our turds all look the same at the end of the day =)
I've noticed Rustoleum is far more forgiving to a dirty surface to so makes cleaning the parts a lot less tedious.
I used a primer on everything then topcoated several coats with semi-gloss black.
When I SAS'd I didn't have the luxury of time, space, a shop or a welder at home so I had to plan accordingly to weld on all my gussets and parts. To properly coat the axle, you really need to coat the bare axle before putting on that upper gusset, then grind off the coating where you'll be welding.. then give the whole beast another coat when it's all assembled. Thats what I did, you can make out where the paints been grinded down here.
BESIDES.... they all look used and abused after its been wheeling! Ha my axle is dingy and scraped to hell now and its only been 4 months =) .. if i cared? I'd 3M the dings and scrapes and spray on some Rustoleum!! haha
Last edited by drew303; 11-25-2009 at 12:26 AM.
#49
Registered User
I'm bored so i went out and took a picture of the axle as it is today.
You can see the mother earth rash on the bottom of the axle and the rock rash on the dif armor.
Regardless of the product you choose, this is inevitable. =)
I'm not saying your POR15 treatment was a waste of money! It wasn't!!! That stuff is awesome! but, I think its cost effectiveness is better on parts like the frame or things that won't see direct contact with .. well mother earth =)
You can see the mother earth rash on the bottom of the axle and the rock rash on the dif armor.
Regardless of the product you choose, this is inevitable. =)
I'm not saying your POR15 treatment was a waste of money! It wasn't!!! That stuff is awesome! but, I think its cost effectiveness is better on parts like the frame or things that won't see direct contact with .. well mother earth =)
#51
Registered User
powder coat all the way dude!! lets be real here, wether you coat it of paint it, it will fade, but coating will last way longer, if you stay away from colors with fluorescents in them. powder coating is way more durable than any paint and i recommend that you especially powder coat the parts that will be closer to damage cause powder coating is the toughest. just go out and get a coating gun, some powder, an electric oven. and do all your own stuff. it's way cheaper than sending it out.. or just have your neighbor do it:] even cheaper!! im coating my ifs upper control arms right now! weehoo!!
#52
It's been done for quite sometime, but thanks for the input. i used por 15. It hasn't gotten a lot of use b/c just about everything else on the rig is being worked on. I just finished painting it and I've got a 22r/20r hybrid on the crane right now and should be dropped in tomorrow. She's lookin pretty good. I'm sure I'll have a few kinks I'll need to work out since there has been so much work done and such little driving, but I'm not too worried about it. She'll be drivable very soon, but I'm sure i'll be on here asking another question or two before it happens.
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