TinMan

How much POR15 and top coat do you need for an entire frame, front and rear axle housing?

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, that should be the complete kit.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

A quart of each should do it.

TubedYota

Yeah POR15 or rattle can it....I sprayed my tubes with a can 4years ago and touch it up but I think I want to sandblast and por it in the spring. If you don't want to use their top coat you can wait for the por to get tacky and spray any color of spray paint on it........if you let the por dry and paint it the paint will not stick for long and flake off.

TinMan

Thanks 4crawler

live4soccer7

POR 15 came in. I will have some picks up once I get some progress.

Cal01

with Rustoleum its best to use rollers on the body. did it on a car before and nobody could tell it was rolled.

live4soccer7

I've got a question for those who have used POR-15 with the top coat. I clean it with the marine clean, then the marine ready, then make sure is it 100% dry and then apply the por 15 (how many coats? completely dry before applying a new coat) and then I apply the chassis black topcoat (how long after the last por 15 rust prev. coat? until completely dry?).

Anyone clear these up?

Wardamneagle

I used 2 coats of POR15 and 1 topcoat. I have read of others doing exactly the opposite. The POR15 protects the metal from rust. It doesn't need a topcoat per se but it will dull up (and I think go more toward gray) if it isn't topcoated. I used 2 coats because my primary concern was to protect the metal. Also I only put on 1 topcoat because I knew that I could always come back and lightly sand and put another topcoat on at anytime. The topcoat isn't nearly as hard as the POR15 so a light sand between cured coats works whereas I don't think it does between coats of POR15 or between POR15 and a topcoat.

I put on one coat and within less than 2 hours was able to put on the second coat. You shouldn't let it completely cure. I think the advice that I was given was it's ready for the second coat when a latex gloved finger still "sticks" to the surface but no paint sticks to the glove (if that makes sense). In other words, dry but still tacky. I followed that advice and mine came out well.

I used the same technique between the second POR15 coat and the topcoat. If you let the POR15 completely dry (like overnight) then the topcoat will not stick. You will have to use their self-etching intermediate primer first. I didn't want to use the primer so that's why I didn't let the POR15 completely cure.

Now it was very hot and humid when I painted mine so your drying time might be much longer than mine. I prepped everything and then started painting early in the morning to make sure that I could get all three coats on everything before quitting for the day. You may not be able to do that if your dry time is hours instead of 1 or 2 hours.

Always pour out just enough POR15 into a small separate container. I bought a few little plastic containers at WalMart and used those. I also used the POR15 pour spout each time which helped keep paint off the lip of the can. If you didn't buy their pour spout then you might want to dip the paint out with a plastic measuring spoon to keep the paint off the rim. Always put a layer or two of saran wrap loosely on top of the can before you put the lid back on the can. If you don't then you won't be able to open the can later if there is any paint at all on the rim. Only use brushes that you don't mind tossing. I used a new one each time. I wasn't going for a show finish so I didn't mind using cheap brushes. The POR15 is very self-leveling and looks more or less like a sprayed finish. The topcoat isn't quite as good in that regard. I think a perfect technique would be to brush on the POR15 and then spray on the topcoat. Spraying wasn't an option for me.

Here's a pic of my axles at some point during the process.

live4soccer7

Thank you very much for the time to put that up. Your axles look sweet! Nice work. I'll be painting within the next few hours and I won't stop until the topcoat is done. I'll have pics up later on (prob when the project is done). I've gotten plenty of them throughout the process.

Teuf

Rust bullet it , then satin black.

live4soccer7

I've already gotten the POR 15 and am a couple hours away from painting. I don't plan on beatin the hell out of my truck, so this is a long term rust preventative technique that will last a very long time. Also if it does chip it's easy to repair and the rust doesn't spread under the paint because of the pre-painting process you put the parts through. None of the gasket surfaces, bearings or holes will be painted. It is just the outer surfaces that are exposed to air, dirt, mud etc....

live4soccer7

does anyone know if I can use a foam brush with the por 15 paint and top coat? It's all I have around the house (about six of them). If not, I'll have to run to the store. Guess I'm not sure if it will "eat" the foam.

Wardamneagle

I don't think it will eat them but I don't think they would work very well but then again maybe they would? I used cheap all-purpose brushes or they may have been cheap brushes that said that they were ok for urethane paints; I can't remember exactly.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I usually do 1 coat of POR-15 then let it dry until still slightly tacky but not enough to leave fingerprints in it, then top coat (usually 2 coats). If you miss that point, let it dry fully (several days) then sand and top coat.

live4soccer7

Just got the first coat of por 15 on. Looking good so far. Took forever to apply it to all of the pieces. I think my second coat should come about 3-4 hrs from when I started. I think about 1-2 hours from now. It's about 65-70 F and pretty dry here.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the POR-15 base coat drying time is really variable. It is almost opposite that of normal paints, cool wet weather will dry it in an hour or two, but in hot dry weather it can take much longer.

live4soccer7

That's good to hear. I just applied the second POR 15 coat. Next up is the first top coat (I think I may do two)

live4soccer7

finished up with two coats por 15 and 1 topcoat. I was tired and it was about 1 when I finished the topcoat, so i figured it would be good enough and went to bed. I should be able to start assembly today after I do some work.

vwfastg60

Por-15 and chassis saver are junk. Valspar makes a tractor paint for 8 bucks a qt and the hardener is 14bucks and it holds up way better. I had both chassis saver and por peel off and i prepped it how i was told and had all the metal etch bs and cleaner and filler....Its all garbage.

I have had good luck with etch primer and the rust paint at walmart or the regular old rustolium. Mines the cheap rust paint and etch primer i talked about.