Hey look! I can see the ground!

84YotaBuck · 12-18-2009, 07:34 PM

Through my floor that is. Pulled up my carpet cause it's been wet and look what I find, after I chopped the worst of the rust out. Any recommendations on size of metal to use to patch it. Was thinking 1/16", maybe I'll go 1/8", never patched a floor before, this ought to be fun, can't be worse than patching my frame.

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kiyobrown · 12-18-2009, 07:58 PM

Holy Buckets! I've never patched a floor before. I would guess thicker is better, right? Geez, good luck.

RMA · 12-18-2009, 08:00 PM

Yea man good luck !! and luckily you didnt fall thru ..

camo31"10.50" · 12-18-2009, 08:18 PM

well if you go too thick it will look stupid LOL

go with something the same thickness or close to it.

make sure you cut out alllllll of the rust though dude

**ocdropzone** · 12-18-2009, 08:21 PM

thicker is better...especially since you are dealing with a body mount right there

chip out all the sound deadening material..more than you already have...it likes to catch fire

camo31"10.50" · 12-18-2009, 08:25 PM

oh well yea forgot about the body mount..LMAO

85toy · 12-19-2009, 07:54 PM

go with metal with similar thickness as the original metal, its hard to weld thick to thin ya know.

1989toy4wd · 12-19-2009, 08:43 PM

Whew, Im glad i live in texas!! When I first got on this site, I was scared to death to pull up my carpet!! But when I did I was happy, the only rust I got is surface rust on my bed floor!!

As for thickness, like they said, maybe a little thicker than stock would be good, while you are there you may want to check the passenger side too!

84YotaBuck · 12-19-2009, 08:53 PM

It's hard welding that stuff period. It's so thin you constantly burn through. Anyways, finished welding in a patch and am now painting/undercoating everything, what a pain in the A$$, I hate rust!

**waskillywabbit** · 12-20-2009, 05:45 AM

You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most.

Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger.

All the pics are here: http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm

This is a hole

Notice the weld rosettes all around outside

Here is how it looked inside

Pictures of both sides done at the same time, but you get the idea.

Fill up the seams with seam sealer, hit it with some Rustoleum inside and out, 3M undercoating on the outside, done.

wii_tarded · 12-20-2009, 06:54 AM

nice^^

**ocdropzone** · 12-20-2009, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most.

Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger.

All the pics are here: http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm

This is a hole

Notice the weld rosettes all around outside

Here is how it looked inside

Pictures of both sides done at the same time, but you get the idea.

Fill up the seams with seam sealer, hit it with some Rustoleum inside and out, 3M undercoating on the outside, done.

added to my 'good ideas' sticky in 1st Gen folder

flatyota · 12-21-2009, 08:14 AM

Man that looks great I have the exact same problem on the pass side, thanks for the ideas!!

cballard56 · 12-21-2009, 09:17 AM

i do car interiors for a living, and believe me, we see this a lot. it might sound crazy, but the best way to repair it is to just get some thin sheet metal and screw/rivet/weld it around the hole, putting silicone inbetween them. after that dries, we usually lay down some fiberglass resin and cloth along the whole section of affected floorpan, this ensures the rust won't run as much and elimintates most weak points in the future. sometimes, we even skip the first step and just do fiberglass, but only on cars with small rust holes, you'd be surprised how strong 1/4 inch of fiberglass is.

12-18-2009, 08:00 PM	#3 (permalink)
RMA Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Jose ,Ca Posts: 1,713	Yea man good luck !! and luckily you didnt fall thru .. __________________ '89 2wd X-tracab,W55,22re,My DD '94 SR5 4Runner 4x4,A340H, 3VZE,Alpine deck,Wifes DD '88 SR5 4runner ,A341E,1UZ-FE,kenwoodVZ907, XRC8, Homemade Roof rack.33x10.50,15 KM2 1" home made body lift, BJ spacers ,CB, rear disc brakes ,lockright rear, Truetrac front.sky ebrake,homemade IFS truss My swap thread http://www.yotatech.com/f161/1uz-fe-...0-3vze-185324/

12-18-2009, 08:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
camo31"10.50" Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Vian, OK Posts: 3,621	well if you go too thick it will look stupid LOL go with something the same thickness or close to it. make sure you cut out alllllll of the rust though dude __________________ FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 4runner V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009

12-18-2009, 08:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
ocdropzone Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX Posts: 6,342	thicker is better...especially since you are dealing with a body mount right there chip out all the sound deadening material..more than you already have...it likes to catch fire __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread *SEARCH LINKS* GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS PARTS ID Please Wheel Responsibly

12-18-2009, 08:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
camo31"10.50" Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Vian, OK Posts: 3,621	oh well yea forgot about the body mount..LMAO __________________ FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 4runner V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009

12-19-2009, 08:43 PM	#8 (permalink)
1989toy4wd Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Beaumont, Tx Posts: 1,013	Whew, Im glad i live in texas!! When I first got on this site, I was scared to death to pull up my carpet!! But when I did I was happy, the only rust I got is surface rust on my bed floor!! As for thickness, like they said, maybe a little thicker than stock would be good, while you are there you may want to check the passenger side too! __________________ -Colton- 1989 Toyota Pickup DLX, 22RE, 5-spd, 5-in SAS, Dual Ulitmate Crawler setup W/all pro skid plate, Detroit back, ARB front, longs, 37/13R15 Boggers, Marlin front and rear bumpers, Marlin sliders, Ramsey Patriot 9500 winch with synthetic line, Hi-angle D/S F&R, diff breathers, rebuilt tranny, 22RE bored .20 over completely rebuilt, built in memory of my dad (RIP 6-26-08) Daily driver, tow vehicle, and fuel/tire saver: 02 Dodge 2500 Diesel, 5-speed, 4wd, quad cab, longbed, 140k miles

12-19-2009, 08:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
84YotaBuck Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bremerton Posts: 83	It's hard welding that stuff period. It's so thin you constantly burn through. Anyways, finished welding in a patch and am now painting/undercoating everything, what a pain in the A$$, I hate rust! __________________ 84 Extended cab

12-20-2009, 05:45 AM	#10 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 16,786	You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most. Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger. All the pics are here: http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm This is a hole Notice the weld rosettes all around outside Here is how it looked inside Pictures of both sides done at the same time, but you get the idea. Fill up the seams with seam sealer, hit it with some Rustoleum inside and out, 3M undercoating on the outside, done. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 Jeeps are cute. Ken drives one. This extra space provided to you at Tofer's request and now for rent to the highest bidder. Last edited by waskillywabbit; 12-20-2009 at 05:46 AM.

12-20-2009, 06:54 AM	#11 (permalink)
wii_tarded Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 296	nice^^ __________________ '91 Runner, 5 speed, 31's, Flowmaster, ISR, 2" Body lift, 278k miles. Working on 3.4 swap...slow going For 3.4 swaps... www.toyonlyswaps.com What should be, and what is, are two different things! Live so the preacher doesn't have to lie at your funeral!

12-21-2009, 08:14 AM	#13 (permalink)
flatyota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 60	Man that looks great I have the exact same problem on the pass side, thanks for the ideas!!

12-21-2009, 09:17 AM	#14 (permalink)
cballard56 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 1	i do car interiors for a living, and believe me, we see this a lot. it might sound crazy, but the best way to repair it is to just get some thin sheet metal and screw/rivet/weld it around the hole, putting silicone inbetween them. after that dries, we usually lay down some fiberglass resin and cloth along the whole section of affected floorpan, this ensures the rust won't run as much and elimintates most weak points in the future. sometimes, we even skip the first step and just do fiberglass, but only on cars with small rust holes, you'd be surprised how strong 1/4 inch of fiberglass is.

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